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03 R1150RT: is it time for an ABS modulectomy?


RogerC60

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Back in the winter I replaced the OEM rubber brake hoses on my new-to-me 03 R1150RT with Galfer braided stainless steel. While I was working on the brake system I found the rear reservoir in the ABS module was completely empty. Now that I have the bike back on the road I still have a flashing brake failure light. I put a scanner on the OBD port and found a low fluid level code. Thinking I have a bad sensor or broken connector or something like that I dug into the bike this afternoon, only to find the rear reservoir empty again.

 

There are no visible leaks on the lines going from the module to the rear caliper, but the tray under the ABS module (and under the battery, too) is damp with brake fluid. All the lines coming out of the top of the module are dry. All three sides of the module that are visible without removing it from the bike are dry, too. This leaves only the bottom and front side of the module (next to the motronic) as candidates for the source of the leak.

 

I'm not afraid of opening up the module to try to fix this, but is it even worthwhile? Not sure where I can find gaskets, etc. Or is it likely that the actual case of the module has a rupture?

 

I'm considering buying a used module, or just bypassing it and going with old fashioned manual brakes. I'd welcome any opinions. Thanks!

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1 hour ago, RogerC60 said:

Back in the winter I replaced the OEM rubber brake hoses on my new-to-me 03 R1150RT with Galfer braided stainless steel. While I was working on the brake system I found the rear reservoir in the ABS module was completely empty. Now that I have the bike back on the road I still have a flashing brake failure light. I put a scanner on the OBD port and found a low fluid level code. Thinking I have a bad sensor or broken connector or something like that I dug into the bike this afternoon, only to find the rear reservoir empty again.

 

There are no visible leaks on the lines going from the module to the rear caliper, but the tray under the ABS module (and under the battery, too) is damp with brake fluid. All the lines coming out of the top of the module are dry. All three sides of the module that are visible without removing it from the bike are dry, too. This leaves only the bottom and front side of the module (next to the motronic) as candidates for the source of the leak.

 

I'm not afraid of opening up the module to try to fix this, but is it even worthwhile? Not sure where I can find gaskets, etc. Or is it likely that the actual case of the module has a rupture?

 

I'm considering buying a used module, or just bypassing it and going with old fashioned manual brakes. I'd welcome any opinions. Thanks!

 

Afternoon RogerC60

 

You REALLY need to identify EXACTLY where the leak is coming from to make solid informed decision.

 

If it IS the ABS module  (not a line connection) then your choices are somewhat limited.

 

Buying a used I-ABS module is iffy  due to the number of I-ABS module failures,  there is a somewhat good chance that you could be  buying a problematic ABS module.

 

Repairing your module is possible if something simple that doesn't take parts as there are really no parts available for those units.

 

Removing the ASB module  is a decent way to go if you can live without the ABS as  the brakes on the 1150 bikes are quite nice as standard non-power non-ABS brakes.  (not a big deal to remove but it takes a little re-plumbing of the hydraulics & some electrical knowledge)

 

 

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On 3/30/2019 at 7:09 PM, RogerC60 said:

I'm considering... just bypassing it and going with old fashioned manual brakes. I'd welcome any opinions. Thanks!

 

I don't think you will be disappointed.

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Mike Sawatske

Big improvement to the rideability and enjoyment of my 04 R1150RT.  Search 'servoectomy' for good methods.

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13 minutes ago, AndyS said:

If you PM me your email address I will send you an illustrated walk thru of the procedure.

Thanks for the offer. I already did lots of searching and found this method. I did the job yesterday, will probably get the bike out for a test ride tomorrow (I have a couple more things to do before I put all the tupperware back on). I used the approach of retaining the electronic controller to avoid having to rewire the brake lights.

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16 hours ago, RogerC60 said:

Thanks for the offer. I already did lots of searching and found this method. I did the job yesterday, will probably get the bike out for a test ride tomorrow (I have a couple more things to do before I put all the tupperware back on). I used the approach of retaining the electronic controller to avoid having to rewire the brake lights.

 

 

So can I as, did you chop off the complete electrical connector?

 

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No, I did not cut any wires going to the ABS connector. I removed the electronics box from the end of the module, made a cover for it using a piece of plastic, and then wrapped it all up with duct tape. Then I reconnected it and zip tied it into the space where the ABS module used to be.

 

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This is the german company ..RH Electronics..that rebuilds the ABS systems, they now have a plug-and-play replacement for the entire module... I am considering it as you can replace the module if it is repaired or a different owner wants one. Seems like a good idea. It $700 .... euros i think. It allows you to leave everything EOM but with no ABS .... I haven't installed this unit so I need to investigate how the hydraulic lines will work, whether you by-pass the lines from master cylinders or not.

 

Here is the link... you will need to use google translate...

https://rhelectronics.de/de/neu-und-gebrauchtgeraete/neue-steuergeraete/rh-second-life-kit-am0/

 

 

rh_second_life_kit_800x450.jpg

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1 hour ago, RT1150Ted said:

This is the german company ..RH Electronics..that rebuilds the ABS systems, they now have a plug-and-play replacement for the entire module... I am considering it as you can replace the module if it is repaired or a different owner wants one. Seems like a good idea. It $700 .... euros i think. It allows you to leave everything EOM but with no ABS .... I haven't installed this unit so I need to investigate how the hydraulic lines will work, whether you by-pass the lines from master cylinders or not.

 

Here is the link... you will need to use google translate...

https://rhelectronics.de/de/neu-und-gebrauchtgeraete/neue-steuergeraete/rh-second-life-kit-am0/

 

 

rh_second_life_kit_800x450.jpg

 

R1180Ted, that is just giving $700 away. As most of who have performed a Servoectomy, you don't have to destroy anything. If you want to reverse engineer and put it back to stock it is straightforward as nothing is damaged. Why anyone would go back to stock after removing their servo is beyond me. The brakes feel way better with more feel and greater modulation too. Plus, all that weight has gone...so you can treat yourself to another burger!

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Thanks for that. Yea, it really seems expensive.

 

I miss having independent brakes but braking performance can be subjective, when I test the residual braking it's so bad it's hard to imagine what would happen in a failure of the ABS system, a local BMW service director told me failures are rare.

 

My dilemma is ...I bought the bike 2 years ago (2004 R1150RT) and serviced brakes etc and rest of bike but now want to replace OEM brake lines as i really think I'm pushing it on the life expectancy, if I am going to bleed brakes etc why not remove the system while I have evey thing off.

 

I have yet to activate the ABS on this bike, have never had an abs system in the past, but.... on highway with all my stuff the bike is pretty heavy and the power of the existing system is pretty good. Will I have that much braking power without?

 

Cheers

Ted

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Hi RT1150Ted.

You will not have wasted anything by replacing the brake lines.  Just do it.

As to doing a Servoectomy...hmm, difficult one. Some here will say, "if it ain't broken"...  Normally, I would be one of them. However, I am also one of the bunch here that have experienced a servo failure in real world conditions and it was almost the end of me. So, I may be the exception here and say, yes whip that bad boy out.

In terms of the ABS, it is / was a real shame to loose that feature of the integrated braking system. However, apart from testing it to see if it worked, I have never had the need to use it.

 

 

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Just to follow up, I took the bike for a quick test ride last night to see how the brakes feel without the ABS servo. I think the brakes feel much easier to use: they're much more linear and less "grabby" than before. And they have very good power. I rode around my neighborhood practicing panic stops and was able to almost throw myself over the handlebars. Another very noticeable change is that the rear brake now actually does something; before, the rear pedal felt wooden and I hardly ever used it (not that it made any difference, since the integrated ABS applies both front and back brakes no matter which lever you use).

 

I rode the bike to work today (about 55 miles of mostly highway) and really enjoyed the better feel of the brakes. After this admittedly very short experience with servo-less brakes I'm not sorry I did this.

 

Edited by RogerC60
Clarification
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Mike Sawatske

Apart from similar experiences to RogerC60 after my servectomy I did wonder about the effectiveness of the brakes in a real emergency.  I wonder no longer as I had the butt puckering experience (polite description) of a car turning across me whilst at 80km/h.  It was close to enough for me to estimate I was going to collect him amidships, thankfully the bike braked perfectly.  My response to the clown was not perfectly gentlemanly!  The experience satisfied my remaining doubt about the Servoectomy leaving me vulnerable.

 

I couldn't describe the feel of the brakes now any better than AndyS has above.

 

I used the same method RogerC60 found and use LED lamps in the tail now there is no fancy electronics monitoring the current draw.

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  • 1 month later...
MariettaMark

So can  I ask  if getting the wiring unit off the end of the servo was a problem? I've see a couple of things about the attachment  screws being non-standard and presenting a challenge. If I understand, you don't cut or re-route and wiring, just close up the housing and plug it back in? 

 

I've been having my system flushed annually since I bought it (expensive) but I plan on doing this modification before I flush it again.

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20 minutes ago, MariettaMark said:

So can  I ask  if getting the wiring unit off the end of the servo was a problem? I've see a couple of things about the attachment  screws being non-standard and presenting a challenge. If I understand, you don't cut or re-route and wiring, just close up the housing and plug it back in? 

 

I've been having my system flushed annually since I bought it (expensive) but I plan on doing this modification before I flush it again.

 

Afternoon  MariettaMark

 

Are you referring the procedure that retains the original I-ABS module electronics but removes the servo pumps?

 

If your ABS  system is working OK now then I don't recommend ruining an (expensive) good functioning ABS module.  Just remove the entire module & sell or store it.

 

Then just use the ABS relay (and a few wiring changes)  to control the tail light & brake lights.  

 

If you go the route that retains the ABS electronics then you will need to make a close out cover to seal it up plus you will have to deal with the dash light illumination issue.

 

 

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MariettaMark
17 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon  MariettaMark

 

Are you referring the procedure that retains the original I-ABS module electronics but removes the servo pumps?

 

If your ABS  system is working OK now then I don't recommend ruining an (expensive) good functioning ABS module.  Just remove the entire module & sell or store it.

 

Then just use the ABS relay (and a few wiring changes)  to control the tail light & brake lights.  

 

If you go the route that retains the ABS electronics then you will need to make a close out cover to seal it up plus you will have to deal with the dash light illumination issue.

 

 

Yes, I believe that is what I was referring to. I've read a lot  of posts about this modification on a variety of BMW bikes so it all kind of runs together. By the dash light illumination issue, you are speaking of the brake warning light flashing?

 

I saw a YouTube video today where the guy cut all the wiring and lost his speedometer?? I don't see any mention of that here but it might have been specific to the model he was working on.

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16 minutes ago, MariettaMark said:

Yes, I believe that is what I was referring to. I've read a lot  of posts about this modification on a variety of BMW bikes so it all kind of runs together. By the dash light illumination issue, you are speaking of the brake warning light flashing?

 

I saw a YouTube video today where the guy cut all the wiring and lost his speedometer?? I don't see any mention of that here but it might have been specific to the model he was working on.

 

Afternoon  MariettaMark

 

You do have to keep the bike models in mind when reading & researching  as on the slightly later 1200 bikes with the I-ABS system you will lose the speedometer if you cut wire as those use an electronic speedometer.

 

Your 1150 bike uses a speedometer cable so the speedometer is a stand-alone & doesn't go through the braking system.

 

Using the ABS relay & modifying the wiring is not difficult (if you can read wire colors & make basic secure wire connections). 

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