Mystery

[Joe Coastie]

Got a mystery on my hands. I have a fuel gauge on my 98 1100 RT that works intermittently.

I removed the fuel pump plate to access the sending unit wires.

Removed the unit and made sure the float thingy in side worked freely and tested with my ohm meter.

Everything tested good. When I went to reinstall it I noticed a purplish "o" ring around the inner hoses, it appears to be large enough to also go over the sending unit.

None of my manuals or diagrams that I've looked at show it.

I guess perhaps the previous owner installed it to keep the hoses together for reassembly instead of fishing around for them.

Any ideas or info ?

Thanks in advance.

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, Wacky Rider said:

Got a mystery on my hands. I have a fuel gauge on my 98 1100 RT that works intermittently.

I removed the fuel pump plate to access the sending unit wires.

Removed the unit and made sure the float thingy in side worked freely and tested with my ohm meter.

Everything tested good. When I went to reinstall it I noticed a purplish "o" ring around the inner hoses, it appears to be large enough to also go over the sending unit.

None of my manuals or diagrams that I've looked at show it.

I guess perhaps the previous owner installed it to keep the hoses together for reassembly instead of fishing around for them.

Any ideas or info ?

Thanks in advance.

 

Afternoon Wacky Rider

 

Yes, some use an "O" ring & others use a loose zip tie.

 

That kind of keeps the sender tube wires following the tube down so it doesn't foul the low fuel float.

 

You really don't need that darn thing, it just keeps things inside the tank neater & tidier. More then likely it was there for original assembly ease than having a useful function once in service. Or could possibly be there to keep the fuel pump nozzle from contacting the wires.

 

If you still can't get your gauge to read correctly then try running a stand alone ground wire from the sender low (ground) directly to the battery (-) post. In a lot of cases that will get them reading correctly as it eliminates the high resistance in the SHARED fuel pump/sender low side.  

 

If your dash gauge reads differently with the engine running (fuel pump running) than with just the key on  then really suspect the sender tube low (ground) having excessive resistance.

 

[Joe Coastie]

Thank you.

[Joe Coastie]

Thank you. Where would you suggest attaching said ground wire. This is the first bike I've owned with fuel injection.

[dirtrider]

37 minutes ago, Wacky Rider said:

Thank you. Where would you suggest attaching said ground wire. This is the first bike I've owned with fuel injection.

 

Evening Wacky Rider

 

Start by running a 4mm brown wire from the battery’s (-) post, along the frame, then over the ABS module, then fasten to a CLEAN screw (and clean under screw) on the fuel pump pass-through flange. If you want you can also put a connector in that wire near the fuel tank to make future tank removal easier.

 

In a lot of cases that is all it takes.

 

If still a problem then find the two brown wires coming out of the pump pass-through & find the one that goes to the fuel gauge sender tube then add on (splice on) a brown wire & run directly to battery (-) post. 

[Joe Coastie]

Thanks again. That's what I was thinking.

I didn't want to screw up some very expensive parts.

[Joe Coastie]

Many thanks dirtrider, the ground wire did the trick.

The main reason I wanted to get it working correctly was so the oil temp side would work properly.

It really never got above 2-3 bars if the right side was on the blink.

 

Again, many thanks.

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, Wacky Rider said:

Many thanks dirtrider, the ground wire did the trick.

The main reason I wanted to get it working correctly was so the oil temp side would work properly.

It really never got above 2-3 bars if the right side was on the blink.

 

Again, many thanks.

 

Afternoon Wacky Rider

 

Happy that you got it working.