Drop pegs, raise seat, or both?

[NoKick90]

New owner here, so new that I've spent more time on bmwst than in the saddle of the 09 RT that's been in my garage for a few weeks. It's still winter here: 22 this morning. So, after a few rides, the initial impression is that the bike will just "fall in" to turns, a welcome habit. Now it's up to the rider to spend some miles learning to match the bike's power to its willingness to corner. Should be fun.

 

Still glad the bike has the "low" option, as both side and center stand are easy to use. However, with the one-piece "low" seat, my legs feel a bit cramped. I reckon the easiest fix would be to get a higher seat, and there's a heated 

comfort seat for sale on here, PN 52538544792. A vendor lists this seat for 2016-18 only. Could someone kindly point to the correct seat # ?

 

The footpegs on my last bike were designed with an offset to the bracket so that swapping them around brought them down and forward by about an inch. It might be useful to get a similar kind of drop with the RT. What are some efficient ways to make that happen?

 

tia, NoKick90

 

[Indy Dave]

Hi Nokick - Can't help you on the seat - I *assume* the underpinnings beneath the seat are the same as stock? If no one chimes in about the seat, remove the seat and take a picture from the tank back.

 

Suburban Machinery  makes a foot peg lowering set. I used a pair for years until I had my hips replaced.

 

https://www.suburban-machinery.com/R1200RT.html

 

 

[Indy Dave]

In fact, I should have mine sitting around and will sell them to you if you're interested.

[NoKick90]

Very interested. Did you need any of the shifter or brake adjusting pieces, too?

 

Below is the seat bracket. Seat itself is one piece, I believe BMW "low."

 

NoKick90

[Indy Dave]

Hi Nick - I did not need the extended shift or brake levers. I did adjust the shift lever one 'notch' lower. You can adjust the brake lever as needed with the linkage id you find you need it lower.

 

On the seat - this is what the standard seat mounts look like:

 

Overview:

 

 

This front bar has a high and low position (high shown here)

 

 

 

Low position:

 

The front of the seat has cutouts that slide into the rubber ends on the bars:

 

 

To support the back of the front seat, there are two positions in this bracket:

 

 

 

and these sit on the rear front seat bracket or perch:

 

 

You'll need to see if you have these bits if you want to fit a non one piece seat.

 

[NoKick90]

No doubt old news to you guys, but mine is different: there are tabs that the black plastic pieces engage to hold the front in place. On my bike, the Corbin that was uncomfortable on test ride sat on the "dumbbell" piece, but seller kept that. All I have is the one seat. If the lowered pegs work out, I'll be happy to keep this seat. May even need to go with a lower windscreen, as it's just barely possible to see over the one that's on there now.

NK90

[Indy Dave]

Do you have the rear bits? If so, getting the 'barbell' piece shouldn't be too difficult. Could probably get it used from beamerbone yard. That is, if you decide to revert back to a two piece seat. 

 

I'll get the peg lowering kit out this evening and send you photos.

[dirtrider]

18 hours ago, NoKick90 said:

New owner here, so new that I've spent more time on bmwst than in the saddle of the 09 RT that's been in my garage for a few weeks. It's still winter here: 22 this morning. So, after a few rides, the initial impression is that the bike will just "fall in" to turns, a welcome habit. Now it's up to the rider to spend some miles learning to match the bike's power to its willingness to corner. Should be fun.

 

Still glad the bike has the "low" option, as both side and center stand are easy to use. However, with the one-piece "low" seat, my legs feel a bit cramped. I reckon the easiest fix would be to get a higher seat, and there's a heated 

comfort seat for sale on here, PN 52538544792. A vendor lists this seat for 2016-18 only. Could someone kindly point to the correct seat # ?

 

The footpegs on my last bike were designed with an offset to the bracket so that swapping them around brought them down and forward by about an inch. It might be useful to get a similar kind of drop with the RT. What are some efficient ways to make that happen?

 

tia, NoKick90 

 

 

Afternoon   NoKick90

 

It looks from posts above that the seat info is well handled so I will address the lowered foot pegs.

 

If you are a VERY AGRESSIVE rider then you will more then likely drag lowered foot pegs on a rough road surface & a  high lean angle. Jacking the rear suspension up helps the ground clearance but that ruins the rear  sag.

 

 

 

 

[NoKick90]

Not very aggressive unless the RT brings out some latent, long-hidden boy racer tendencies. I got my 10/10ths jollies racing in SCCA and BMW car club, so the bike is just for fun and being closer to Nature while touring our great country. The last bike I regularly dragged metal on was a 1978 Yamaha XS-750 Special; just keeping up with my buddies on /5's caused a lot of sparks to fly. The Yamaha was quickly traded for a GS-1000, which wore a Vetter fairing and played stablemate to the incomparable R90S. Trying to relive the '70's-80's now with a 1250 Bandit parked next to the RT. 

 

So no, dropping the RT's pegs isn't likely to cause me to rub hard parts against the pavement. May need to make the RT's suspenders a touch more compliant, but that's in the future.

 

And where else can one correspond with an ambassador and an oracle in the same sitting? 

 

NoKick90

[NoKick90]

Peg lowering kit now installed courtesy of Indy Dave. Leg position is much more comfortable now! So here's one more question: what is the recommended free play for the rear brake pedal? [distance pedal moves before rod pushes against m/c piston] tia,

NoKick90

[dirtrider]

6 minutes ago, NoKick90 said:

Peg lowering kit now installed courtesy of Indy Dave. Leg position is much more comfortable now! So here's one more question: what is the recommended free play for the rear brake pedal? [distance pedal moves before rod pushes against m/c piston] tia,

NoKick90

 

Afternoon   NoKick90

 

2-3mm measured at the stop screw head. If your bike doesn't have a pedal stop screw then you get what you get.

[NoKick90]

Dropped shift lever one tooth on splined shaft to go along with moving brake pedal and stop almost to the end of their adjustment. Nice 4-hour ride confirmed comfort gain; still some gravel in turns on the mountains in VA and WVA, so there was never a moment where I felt like testing the lean limits of the newly lowered pegs. It's all good, except 70-degree days have disappeared - 24 this a.m.

NoKick90

[Indy Dave]

Yes... We had 55 Sat and then snow by 6pm.