Andre1150 Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 Basically, I just need a refresher as my memory seems to be going, even if I write things down in my Clymers manual. I'm in the process of replacing the clutch on this bike again, I got about 15k before the clutch started to slip on hard acceleration and anytime I'm at speed and need to get out of trouble, give it gas, and the bike stays cruising along. So, that's what's happened. I'm down to the 6 bolts on the tranny, and I see my paint on them to remind me of the torque order. Aaannnndddd.... there's the damn transmission support on the underside, attached to the kickstand, and bolted in on both sides with a LONG allen cap screw. There's no illustrations in any of the manuals. I've been here before and I can't remember if I needed to remove the whole support (which would be a PITA) or just rotate it back, which it doesn't want to do. Basically, I'm procrastinating by coming in here and writing this, rather than going back out and fighting with the darn thing. Thanks. And Dirtrider, Roger04, much thanks over the years for getting me back on the road. Link to comment
Doctare Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 Andre1150 I had the same thing happen to my 1997 R1100RT after I replaced its clutch. I asked John my parts guy if there was a heavier clutch spring that would fit my bike. He found this: R1100RT Heavy Clutch Spring replacement From a R1150RT Part # 212345597 Description DIAPHRAGM SPRING\ Price $92.59 Tax $8.56 Total $101.15 After that, I have had to change the cable but the mystery slippage stopped. Maybe there is a heavier spring for your bike. Doctare Link to comment
Andre1150 Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 Hmm.. thank you. I never thought about that. Link to comment
Andre1150 Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 Here are some additional pics in case anyone is interested. This was a former RTP so I wonder if the extra transmission support is because of that. And yes, you have to remove it. One side attaches to the centerstand and the big spring on the right side interferes with the removal of the Allen tapered socket screw (pictured) Link to comment
Andre1150 Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 Bracket with the transmission bolts removed. Link to comment
Andre1150 Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 So, to get this sucker off, take a large wrench and slip it between the centerstand and the spring, and move the spring over to the left gently, this clears up interference with the bolt and allows you to remove the bolt. The plate doesnt come off easy, just pry it and wiggle it and it will pop off. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 9 hours ago, Andre1150 said: Basically, I just need a refresher as my memory seems to be going, even if I write things down in my Clymers manual. I'm in the process of replacing the clutch on this bike again, I got about 15k before the clutch started to slip on hard acceleration and anytime I'm at speed and need to get out of trouble, give it gas, and the bike stays cruising along. So, that's what's happened. I'm down to the 6 bolts on the tranny, and I see my paint on them to remind me of the torque order. Aaannnndddd.... there's the damn transmission support on the underside, attached to the kickstand, and bolted in on both sides with a LONG allen cap screw. There's no illustrations in any of the manuals. I've been here before and I can't remember if I needed to remove the whole support (which would be a PITA) or just rotate it back, which it doesn't want to do. Basically, I'm procrastinating by coming in here and writing this, rather than going back out and fighting with the darn thing. Thanks. And Dirtrider, Roger04, much thanks over the years for getting me back on the road. Morning Andre1150 It looks like you have you center stand removal worked out so this will be in replay to you slipping clutch issue. You have SOMETHING really wrong going on with your clutch-- my guess would either be an engine oil leak, or trans front seal leak into the clutch area, or a leaking slave cylinder that is allowing clutch fluid to flow forward through the push-rod channel & pollute the clutch parts. After removing the clutch parts (if) you see any signs of oil or brake fluid on the clutch parts then you need to repair the leakage, or at the very least install an aftermarket oil-resistant clutch disk or your clutch slippage will return again in the near future. Link to comment
Andre1150 Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 Once I got into the clutch, I cannot believe I didn't have a catastrophic failure over the last four years of riding. Holy wow. First, when I pulled the transmission back I found this clutch bolt had backed off and was contacting the transmission case ever so slightly... Link to comment
Andre1150 Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 And then.. pulling the whole pack off, I realized what I had done as a preventive measure back in 2015 was causing the slipping. I had a machine shop custom turn a 6mm spacer to move the spines onto the transmission shaft(photo #1).. which looks like it worked, however, the cap head screws I used were a little proud and contacted the spring plate (photo#2) wearing it down and ultimately forcing the spring to put less pressure on the plate, forcing it to slip and wear out the clutch surface faster. This could have been really, really bad... Link to comment
Andre1150 Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 Mind you, this was before the days of clutch discs being reengineered. Whew! Link to comment
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