Trans repair/replacement options 2019

[avu3]

I know I've been gone a while, but I still have my 99 RT, and its still my preferred mount.

 

I bought it with a worn clutch, and it finally gave up last fall.  I bought the parts to fix it but have been working a lot and decided to pay a local shop to fix it.

That's not normal for me, as I typically do all my own work, but I don't really have the space to blow a bike apart and time is precious.

 

It took them a long time and they ran into lots of problems, but I finally got the bike back last week  - with a new clutch, and new rear main seals and a rebuilt (was leaking) final drive.

And the rattling noise when the clutch is disengaged is still there.   I specifically pointed this out and after disassembly, was assured it was clutch related as the "clutch disc and pressure plate were destroyed".

 

I'm guessing, as I've read before, that the input shaft bearing is shot.

 

They didn't disassemble the trans, but did say that they detected no unusual play or outward signs of damage.

 

So I'm wondering now that its 2019 what my realistic next steps are.

 

• I know a couple shops on the east coast advertise rebuilding services.  With shipping from California that looks expensive.
• I could pick up a used trans and swap it - but they're all getting on in age and I might just be swapping bad for soon-to-be-bad.
• I could pay a premium for a used trans and swap it.  I missed out on a 32k mile unit for $650 on CL that's listed in an add with a bunch of other stuff, so they're apparently still out there.
• I could pickup a used trans and have it locally rebuild.  The guy who did the clutch work said he rebuilt them frequently when he worked at a dealership and felt good about his abilities. What he described about how they fail and the shimming/assembly jives with what I've read elsewhere.  His labor rate would be high, but it would save shipping.  Plus, while he did give me a strong discount for giving me the bike back "not fixed", I'm a little annoyed that this wasn't addressed while it was torn apart.
• I could pickup a used trans and try and rebuild it myself.  I would be uncomfortable with this as I have no special tools nor knowledge about the inside of this thing - but you guys could probably talk me into this (I've built engines before - but my success rate is not excellent).
• I could buy a whole new low mileage bike and swap over all my cool bits (Shocks, AF-XIED, HID, windscreen, cases w/city lids, etc).  I'm not super keen on this as it would be a hassle, and I don't have room for a parts bike.  I'd want something in the 30k mile range, so it'll be harder to find and I'll probably pay a premium.

 

Curious what you guys think you'd do, and if you have any other suggestions for me I haven't considered.

 

I have roadside and intend to commute on it till it dies (or I have a gearbox ready to go in).  I'll change the fluid every 2-3k miles and keep an eye on it for metals.  It had some shiny bits in it per the shop when they changed it.  Its been growling for the 7k miles I've owned it.

 

The new clutch is awesome.  I wish I had done it sooner.

 

Thanks for your thoughts,

Scott

[Jim Moore]

The only thing that makes economic sense is to ride it until it blows up, then replace it yourself with a used transmission from Ebay. It's a $2500 bike at this point. It doesn't make sense to do $3000 worth of transmission repairs.

[dirtrider]

13 hours ago, avu3 said:

And the rattling noise when the clutch is disengaged is still there.   I specifically pointed this out and after disassembly, was assured it was clutch related as the "clutch disc and pressure plate were destroyed".

 

I'm guessing, as I've read before, that the input shaft bearing is shot.

 

They didn't disassemble the trans, but did say that they detected no unusual play or outward signs of damage.

 

So I'm wondering now that its 2019 what my realistic next steps are.

 

• I know a couple shops on the east coast advertise rebuilding services.  With shipping from California that looks expensive.
• I could pick up a used trans and swap it - but they're all getting on in age and I might just be swapping bad for soon-to-be-bad.
• I could pay a premium for a used trans and swap it.  I missed out on a 32k mile unit for $650 on CL that's listed in an add with a bunch of other stuff, so they're apparently still out there.
• I could pickup a used trans and have it locally rebuild.  The guy who did the clutch work said he rebuilt them frequently when he worked at a dealership and felt good about his abilities. What he described about how they fail and the shimming/assembly jives with what I've read elsewhere.  His labor rate would be high, but it would save shipping.  Plus, while he did give me a strong discount for giving me the bike back "not fixed", I'm a little annoyed that this wasn't addressed while it was torn apart.
• I could pickup a used trans and try and rebuild it myself.  I would be uncomfortable with this as I have no special tools nor knowledge about the inside of this thing - but you guys could probably talk me into this (I've built engines before - but my success rate is not excellent).
• I could buy a whole new low mileage bike and swap over all my cool bits (Shocks, AF-XIED, HID, windscreen, cases w/city lids, etc).  I'm not super keen on this as it would be a hassle, and I don't have room for a parts bike.  I'd want something in the 30k mile range, so it'll be harder to find and I'll probably pay a premium.

 

Curious what you guys think you'd do, and if you have any other suggestions for me I haven't considered.

 

I have roadside and intend to commute on it till it dies (or I have a gearbox ready to go in).  I'll change the fluid every 2-3k miles and keep an eye on it for metals.  It had some shiny bits in it per the shop when they changed it.  Its been growling for the 7k miles I've owned it.

 

The new clutch is awesome.  I wish I had done it sooner.

 

Thanks for your thoughts,

Scott

 

 

Morning Scott

 

First we (you) need to determine EXACTLY what is rattling & if whatever (is) rattling is serious.  (with clutch DISENGAGED nothing in the transmission is spinning)

 

Start  by telling us what makes you think your transmission has a problem?  

 

On the 1100 bikes there 2 clutch/transmission rattles that are petty  normal__

 

One is with the clutch disengaged (ie clutch lever pulled in), that is the clutch disk rattling on the input shaft splines. BMW addressed some of this rattle with a service bulletin & a special tighter fitting clutch disk hub). I'm not sure if that tighter clutch disk is still available but if it is then was that the new (tighter) the  clutch disk that was installed?????

 

The other rattle is with the clutch engaged (ie clutch lever not pulled in) & that is the transmission spinning gear sets & sliders rattling at engine idle. BMW addressed this on the very early 1100 series by adding "O" rings between gears & shafts but this effected shifting so the "O" rings were eliminated by the time your 99 1100 was built. THIS, neutral gear rattle is perfectly normal & doesn't point to any problems.

 

So please explain your rattle in more detail.

 

[avu3]

11 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

The other rattle is with the clutch engaged (ie clutch lever not pulled in) & that is the transmission spinning gear sets & sliders rattling at engine idle. BMW addressed this on the very early 1100 series by adding "O" rings between gears & shafts but this effected shifting so the "O" rings were eliminated by the time your 99 1100 was built. THIS, neutral gear rattle is perfectly normal & doesn't point to any problems.

11 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Thanks to both of you. 

 

I realize that I wrote that poorly. This is the rattle I have. 

 

Ill make a recording of it later this week. It's louder than any I've heard.  Normal would be great!

 

As far as the value, it's not the resale value. It's the cost to get it where I want it. And the time. I'd buy a $2500 unknown, spend $1k catching up on past due maintenance and then several days swapping parts around and have to sell/scrap a carcass. The time means more to me than the money. 

 

 

[dirtrider]

24 minutes ago, avu3 said:

Thanks to both of you. 

 

I realize that I wrote that poorly. This is the rattle I have. 

 

Ill make a recording of it later this week. It's louder than any I've heard.  Normal would be great!

 

As far as the value, it's not the resale value. It's the cost to get it where I want it. And the time. I'd buy a $2500 unknown, spend $1k catching up on past due maintenance and then several days swapping parts around and have to sell/scrap a carcass. The time means more to me than the money. 

 

 

 

Evening Scott

 

If it (is) just trans neutral gear rattle then it is normal, you can play with the engine idle balance & curb idle RPM a little to make it slightly better but those transmissions have constant meshed gear sets that mostly have straight cut gears so couple that combination up to a large piston 2 cylinder 360° firing boxer engine & you get gear rattle.

 

A heavier trans gear oil can also help slightly but if you have neutral gear rattle then that won't eliminate it.

 

Just put the choke on part way to raise the idle speed slightly  then see if the gear rattle subsides or goes away.     

[catskill]

The 99 R1100RT is one of the most reliable bikes BMW has built. The early models of the 1100 did have some issues with the transmission. But, the 99 had an excellent transmission. I would be surprised if you really had an issue with the transmission. Not impossible, but unlikely. Also keep in mind that the 1150 had significant issues with the clutch/transmission. You shouldn't compare the 1150 with the 1100.

 

You didn't state how many miles your bike has? That would be helpful. But, typically most people replace the clutch around 90-100k miles on the 1100.

 

The 1100 did have some known problems: (1) the wiring on the HES going bad,; (2) the left tensioner on the cam chain being defective; (3) rubber gas lines in the gas tank splitting; (4) The big bearing on the final drive not shimmed correctly or wearing out; (5) brake lines rotting out on the inside; (6) starter solenoid sticking when starting the bike. I would spend time checking out those items. If you really are concerned about the transmission, then find a fellow 1100 rider and ask them if they think everything sounds normal.

[avu3]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the feedback.

The bike has 69,450 miles on it.  The clutch was replaced because the owner prior to me adjusted the cable "how he liked it" instead of to the factory spec, and wore it out.  I bought it knowing it needed a clutch.  It was the original BMW clutch.   

 

DR asked earlier, the replacement is a Sachs from Beemer Boneyard.

 

Here's a video of the noise.

 

https://youtu.be/s82SIrXT1UY

 

To Catskill's list of items

1) I rewired the HES

2) The tensioner is the updated one.

3) I replaced the fuel pump, lines and filter in the tank.  The Filter was dated 2002.  Needed doing!

4) The final drive was rebuilt while the clutch was done.

5) The brake lines have been replaced.

6) Guess I didn't realize that was common.  I will pick up a spare.

 

The bike also has the AF-XIED, Ohlins, a nice windscreen, drop pegs for the foot pegs, fuel quick disconnects and a ton of maintenance - new plugs, new O2, the items I mentioned above, I've got a new battery to go in it, etc... I understand its only worth $2500 on the open market, but to get a "new" $2500 bike here makes it worth spending $2k on a trans (core plus rebuild) - though I'd just as soon avoid it.

 

Thanks

Scott

 

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, avu3 said:

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the feedback.

The bike has 69,450 miles on it.  The clutch was replaced because the owner prior to me adjusted the cable "how he liked it" instead of to the factory spec, and wore it out.  I bought it knowing it needed a clutch.  It was the original BMW clutch.   

 

DR asked earlier, the replacement is a Sachs from Beemer Boneyard.

 

Here's a video of the noise.

 

https://youtu.be/s82SIrXT1UY

 

To Catskill's list of items

1) I rewired the HES

2) The tensioner is the updated one.

3) I replaced the fuel pump, lines and filter in the tank.  The Filter was dated 2002.  Needed doing!

4) The final drive was rebuilt while the clutch was done.

5) The brake lines have been replaced.

6) Guess I didn't realize that was common.  I will pick up a spare.

 

The bike also has the AF-XIED, Ohlins, a nice windscreen, drop pegs for the foot pegs, fuel quick disconnects and a ton of maintenance - new plugs, new O2, the items I mentioned above, I've got a new battery to go in it, etc... I understand its only worth $2500 on the open market, but to get a "new" $2500 bike here makes it worth spending $2k on a trans (core plus rebuild) - though I'd just as soon avoid it.

 

Thanks

Scott

 

 

Morning Scott

 

I can't open that video on my current computer but did listen on my phone. It doesn't sound normal, or sound like a normal gear rattle. It does sound more like a bearing but difficult to tell you much more.

 

The exhaust noise pretty well covers the base trans noise so maybe try re-recording it from the other side of the bike & well forward of the muffler outlet. 

 

Also, do a clutch lever in, out, in slowly  to temporarily stop the trans input shaft from spinning.

[avu3]

Thanks DR.

 

I'll create a video with the actions you described from the other side of the bike later today.

 

Your feedback that it doesn't sound normal is very helpful, it jives with my feeling from listening to other bikes (in person and on YouTube), and what the Indy told me.

 

Scott

[avu3]

I'm not sure you can hear the noise much better in this video, but here it is from the other side of the bike, with some slow pull and release of the clutch

 

https://youtu.be/NIE5a59w5ek

 

Scott

[Charles Elms]

I had a 97 RT and it never sounded like that when I let the clutch lever out.  I would say not normal. I have no idea whats causing the noise, but listen to what DR says.

 

[dirtrider]

33 minutes ago, avu3 said:

I'm not sure you can hear the noise much better in this video, but here it is from the other side of the bike, with some slow pull and release of the clutch

 

https://youtu.be/NIE5a59w5ek

 

Scott

 

Evening Scott

 

Definitely not normal but I can't tell you what it is (other than it is rotational), my guess is intermediate shaft rear bearing area but that is a guess from a recorded  sound with other background noises mixed in.

 

Does that transmission have any gear oil in it??? It sounds dry.  

[avu3]

It has brand new organic fluid and its full.  It shifts better than it ever has - just has this grinding noise.

 

I'm going to change it in a couple hundred miles when the oil change is due and will check for metals.

 

And I'll keep an eye out for a core I can have rebuilt.

 

Scott

[Jim Moore]

OK, that's a serious noise. You need to start transmission shopping. Sorry.

[dave_a]

That doesn't sound like my 1999. I'm guessing bearing (DUH). 

Why not replace all the bearings in the trans & put the OE trans back in, Jim?

Are bearings bav-pig-preciously priced?

[avu3]

I think my issue is, that it might be on the input shaft, and if it is, that means the trans would be totaled.  

 

http://www.largiader.com/tech/oiltrans/

 

I'd like to do the work myself  to save money, and I don't want the bike blown apart in the garage while I track down a good used trans - so I'd like to get one ahead of time, and go ahead and have it gone through - then I'll change it.  I think the extra $300 to $600 for a good used trans is worth it to me in time savings not having the bike down or torn apart in the little garage space I have.

 

In other news, the clutch cable snapped on the way to work yesterday.  In retrospect, I think it was failing the entire time I had it back - but I didn't realize it as it was a new cable and new trans.  I'd done about 75mi when it failed.

The failure happened after about 10 miles in top gear on the freeway.  It was fine going up into 5th, but when I went to go down to 4th for a merge, I had nothing.  I was able to rev-match the rest of the way on the freeway, and then get it rolling and into 1st at the stop lights to the office.

 

Home was a much greater adventure as coming out of the office is a steep hill with a stop light.  I should have called for a tow, but I'm stubborn.  I've hurt myself a bit from all the pushing (ok, hurt myself a lot), but I got the bike home ok.

 

The lever looks ok, but I'll inspect it further this weekend for the "oval" problem.  The wrench did grease it, I moved the cable end a bit to inspect it and got my hand dirty.

 

The cable was brand new, from Beemer Boneyard.  I just ordered another one from them to replace it.

[spacewrench]

There's a guy making up a batch of custom 1150 input shafts. I don't know if they'll fit your bike, but if that's your problem (or you want a spare in case it becomes a problem) you might contact him.  He was looking for 10 orders, but I recently heard that he'd gotten 6-7 and had decided to go ahead with the manufacturing run on the assumption that he'd be able to sell the rest later.

[spacewrench]

Sorry, on further reading, if you have a clutch cable, then it seems like you probably have a 5-speed, which is different from what these custom shafts are for.  Oh well.

[avu3]

I stumbled on a guy who made input shafts for the 1100 M97, in case anyone needs one.

 

Expensive, but less than buying a whole used unknown transmission.

 

http://www.southerncaliforniamotowerks.com/store/p25/BMW_M97_Gearbox_Shaft.html

 

Haven't bought one, don't know if its my problem, just happened to stumble on it.

[avu3]

Ok, update.  Went out to spend some time on my RT today.  I'd looked at it during the week and realized the cable wasn't broken at the lever end.

 

Pulled the foot plate off and found the adjuster about 10 turns loose.  I screwed it all the way in finger tight and got *some* clutch, but with zero adjustment left.

 

Some internet searches later I'm suspecting something failed in the new clutch assembly.  Possibly the throw out bearing as noted in this discussion.

https://www.tarheelbmw.org/tech-tips/r1100r-clutch-fix-december-2008/

 

Though I did find another discussion (which I can't find now) where the poster talked about something failed inside the trans that caused a similar problem and the trans had to be torn apart and parts pressed apart.  Wish I could find it.

 

I'm debating if I should find a trans and if I should have the found-trans rebuilt before I try and make any repairs.

 

I'm also going to go scout a couple locations of a local co-op garage where I could rent a lift/space for a few days to do the work.  I don't have space to blow the bike apart at home, nor a safe way to secure it to work on it.

 

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, avu3 said:

Ok, update.  Went out to spend some time on my RT today.  I'd looked at it during the week and realized the cable wasn't broken at the lever end.

 

Pulled the foot plate off and found the adjuster about 10 turns loose.  I screwed it all the way in finger tight and got *some* clutch, but with zero adjustment left.

 

Some internet searches later I'm suspecting something failed in the new clutch assembly.  Possibly the throw out bearing as noted in this discussion.

https://www.tarheelbmw.org/tech-tips/r1100r-clutch-fix-december-2008/

 

Though I did find another discussion (which I can't find now) where the poster talked about something failed inside the trans that caused a similar problem and the trans had to be torn apart and parts pressed apart.  Wish I could find it.

 

I'm debating if I should find a trans and if I should have the found-trans rebuilt before I try and make any repairs.

 

I'm also going to go scout a couple locations of a local co-op garage where I could rent a lift/space for a few days to do the work.  I don't have space to blow the bike apart at home, nor a safe way to secure it to work on it.

 

 

Morning Avu3

 

Did you back the adjuster bolt nut off (back to bolt head) then try to adjust the clutch??? If not then try that first. If you (then) get a decent clutch adjustment  don't forget to run the nut back tight to the lever to lock the bolt in place.

 

Also, look for a cracked or bent lever (over the years I have seen a couple of levers crack then the rider looses clutch function).

 

You c-o-u-l-d have a disintegrated bearing in the clutch control but that will take some dedicated digging to discover. 

 

   

[avu3]

Thanks DR.

 

You know... its interesting.

 

The bolt was backed way far out and super loose, I just reached up and spun it with my fingers.  The bolt was probably as far out as your example above.

The nut was pretty close to the bolt head - not at all like your example photo.  My assumption is something broke, and that those bolt/nut positions USED to be right, but now they're not.

 

When I threaded it back down by hand to where the nut stopped, I had... some clutch, but not the right amount.  If I backed the nut all the way up to the bolt head, I had pretty close to the right clutch - but near zero adjustment left.

 

Its possible the bike was given back to me with nearly all the adjustment already out, but it came loose and the bolt just spun itself out.  Or maybe the lock nut wasn't properly secured.

Maybe I could set it back up with the bolt threaded near all the way in - but then as the clutch cable stretches and the clutch ages, I think I won't have enough adjustment to compensate for that.

 

Have I written that in such a way as its understandable?

 

I did not inspect the arm, but now that I know, I'll get in there deeper and try to check the arm for bends/cracks.

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, avu3 said:

Thanks DR.

 

You know... its interesting.

 

The bolt was backed way far out and super loose, I just reached up and spun it with my fingers.  The bolt was probably as far out as your example above.

The nut was pretty close to the bolt head - not at all like your example photo.  My assumption is something broke, and that those bolt/nut positions USED to be right, but now they're not.

 

When I threaded it back down by hand to where the nut stopped, I had... some clutch, but not the right amount.  If I backed the nut all the way up to the bolt head, I had pretty close to the right clutch - but near zero adjustment left.

 

Its possible the bike was given back to me with nearly all the adjustment already out, but it came loose and the bolt just spun itself out.  Or maybe the lock nut wasn't properly secured.

Maybe I could set it back up with the bolt threaded near all the way in - but then as the clutch cable stretches and the clutch ages, I think I won't have enough adjustment to compensate for that.

 

Have I written that in such a way as its understandable?

 

I did not inspect the arm, but now that I know, I'll get in there deeper and try to check the arm for bends/cracks.

 

Afternoon Avu3

 

Look it over VERY CAREFULLY for anything that doesn't look correct.

 

If nothing found then try a full clutch adjustment to see if you can get what you need. Start with image (1) then work your way to image 3. If you can get the 7mm at the hand lever & still have some bolt threads left then ride it for awhile.

 

There was a BMW revision to the 12mm starting adjustment but with your lever bolt almost all the way in now just use the original specified 12mm.

 

[avu3]

Thanks DR.  

 

I hope to get to it this weekend.  Just need to be left alone for an hour!

 

Scott

 

[avu3]

Ok. Clutch is adjusted per DR's diagrams.  The trans is still noisy, but mechanically everything works and I've done about 120mi on it this week.

 

The issue was that in step 1 in DR's photos, the 12mm wasn't between the thumbscrew and the lock, but between the thumbscrew and the mount.  This resulted in more slack needing to be taken up at the bottom and the lack of adjustment threads I was seeing even when the clutch was working.

 

I reset that gap and the bottom adjustment is much more like I expected - I have threads down there now.

 

Hopefully this buys me a few thousand miles while I hunt down a decent trans.

 

Thanks, DR, for your help and encouragement.

 

Scott

[avu3]

I guess at some point all you can do is laugh.

 

Was riding the RT to work today. Since I adjusted the clutch I've put about 200mi on it.  Its been fine.  I've been enjoying it.  Real nice to have it back.  Even riding in the rain just to ride.

On the way to work today, the shifter quit working.  Was just dead/floppy.  In exactly the same spot and same scenario as I lost the clutch a few weeks back.  I went into 5th, ran about 15mi on the freeway, went to downshift at a merge and nada.

 

Got lucky with traffic and cars and managed to only need to slip the clutch at one light.  I still think I ruined it and I'm really disappointed about having wasted all the time/money on it, but what can you do.

I had to get home and couldn't get up the hill out of the office with it in 5th so I had to fix it. I thought maybe a clip had broke so I picked up some picture wire at a general type store hoping to wire it back up if it had.

 

I figured if something broke I couldn't fix, like the arm or something, I'd work to get it in 3rd and run home that way.

 

The allens I needed were in my tool kit, fortunately, so I was able to get the foot plate off to inspect.

 

Turns out the ball to top of the dog bone that links the trans to the shift lever pedal pulled out or unthreaded from the shift lever on the trans

 

23411341675,  part 09 in the diagram
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0418-USA-05-1999-259T-BMW-R_1100_RT_96_0413,0418_&diagId=23_0286

 

Fortunately the ball was still kept in the dog bone and all the clips were intact.

 

Thanks to a pair of needle nose vice grips I picked up at the general type store, I was able to screw the ball back in and get it all re-assembled.

 

The threads on the shift lever look wrecked, but they held all the way home. Granted I only shifted probably 5 times (where normally I'd be 30+ splitting traffic).  I never went above 3rd gear in case it all came apart again.

 

The shift lever seems to be plentiful used on eBay, so I'll pick one up and do a good disassembly.

 

On the way home I realized the clutch was tight. I'm not sure what shifted to cause the clutch to tighten up.  I'm half afraid the bolts are coming out of the trans and its falling off the bike or something.  I won't be riding it until I get a chance to at least check all the external bolts related to the trans.  Last thing I need is the final drive or wheel or brake caliper or something coming off.

 

The bike reeks of burned clutch, so I imagine it slipped all the way home.  Very disappointing.

 

I was feeling really good about how the RT was performing - no hiccups in 200ish miles.  I was thinking about a 1200mi ride this weekend to visit friends.  Jokes on me, ha ha.

[catskill]

It is not uncommon for the 1100 shift linkage to unscrew itself. Happen to me about 50k miles ago. I fixed it on the side of the road. Once home I was able to readjust it. I made sure everything was tight. Been working well since then.

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, avu3 said:

I guess at some point all you can do is laugh.

 

Was riding the RT to work today. Since I adjusted the clutch I've put about 200mi on it.  Its been fine.  I've been enjoying it.  Real nice to have it back.  Even riding in the rain just to ride.

On the way to work today, the shifter quit working.  Was just dead/floppy.  In exactly the same spot and same scenario as I lost the clutch a few weeks back.  I went into 5th, ran about 15mi on the freeway, went to downshift at a merge and nada.

 

Got lucky with traffic and cars and managed to only need to slip the clutch at one light.  I still think I ruined it and I'm really disappointed about having wasted all the time/money on it, but what can you do.

I had to get home and couldn't get up the hill out of the office with it in 5th so I had to fix it. I thought maybe a clip had broke so I picked up some picture wire at a general type store hoping to wire it back up if it had.

 

I figured if something broke I couldn't fix, like the arm or something, I'd work to get it in 3rd and run home that way.

 

The allens I needed were in my tool kit, fortunately, so I was able to get the foot plate off to inspect.

 

Turns out the ball to top of the dog bone that links the trans to the shift lever pedal pulled out or unthreaded from the shift lever on the trans

 

23411341675,  part 09 in the diagram
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0418-USA-05-1999-259T-BMW-R_1100_RT_96_0413,0418_&diagId=23_0286

 

Fortunately the ball was still kept in the dog bone and all the clips were intact.

 

Thanks to a pair of needle nose vice grips I picked up at the general type store, I was able to screw the ball back in and get it all re-assembled.

 

The threads on the shift lever look wrecked, but they held all the way home. Granted I only shifted probably 5 times (where normally I'd be 30+ splitting traffic).  I never went above 3rd gear in case it all came apart again.

 

The shift lever seems to be plentiful used on eBay, so I'll pick one up and do a good disassembly.

 

On the way home I realized the clutch was tight. I'm not sure what shifted to cause the clutch to tighten up.  I'm half afraid the bolts are coming out of the trans and its falling off the bike or something.  I won't be riding it until I get a chance to at least check all the external bolts related to the trans.  Last thing I need is the final drive or wheel or brake caliper or something coming off.

 

The bike reeks of burned clutch, so I imagine it slipped all the way home.  Very disappointing.

 

I was feeling really good about how the RT was performing - no hiccups in 200ish miles.  I was thinking about a 1200mi ride this weekend to visit friends.  Jokes on me, ha ha.

 

 

Morning Avu3

 

Wasn't  a new clutch installed in that bike? If so and you had to slip it when the shifter failed then the disk probably lost some of it's bulk (the disk comes new as somewhat fluffy) so possibly the disk  just glazed a little so the material compressed a little. This happening will usually tighten up the adjustment lash at the lever.

 

As for burnt clutch smell, if you slipped it enough to get going  then that burnt clutch  smell will stay with the bike for quite a long time.

 

Get the shifter repaired then ride the bike to see if the clutch holds & doesn't slip in high gear or doesn't  chatter  on vehicle launch.  

[avu3]

Thanks guys.  I put it back together in the parking lot at work and rode it home and other than being out of adjustment, the clutch seemed ok. 

 

I did google and find what Catskill noted about it being common - all the years on here I never took note of that, but I see it has been mentioned.  When I get the replacement shift lever I ordered on eBay i'll locktite the ball in before I finish assembly.

 

I think my big issue at this point is trust.  Until I put a wrench on everything I won't feel good about doing any kind of distance or time critical (commute) riding on it.  That's a me thing and why I'm poorly suited to letting other people work on things for me.

 

I am somewhat concerned that whatever the growl is may be causing a vibration which is causing the bike to rattle things loose.  I guess i'll find out when I dig in for a more serious nut/bolt.

 

 

[Pbrokaw]

Scott 

 

I have a 96 RS (97k on it) with a skipping problem in third gear. I am goin to be changing the trans for a used one fairly soon.I have a lift in my garage so I’m doing my own work on the bike. How close are you to Casa Grande AZ? 

 

We maybe able to collaborate on these projects 

 

Perry Brokaw 

1996 RS

1997 GS

1998 KLR 650

 

[avu3]

Norcal, so, not at all close, ha ha.  Its probably a 12 hour ride.

 

You going with another m93 or did you source an m97?

[Pbrokaw]

Scott:

 

I'm going to try to get a M97 if possible.

 

Perry

[avu3]

Went through my RT this weekend.  Busy with life and also kinda annoyed at all the money spent and the lack of reliability so it wasn't a priority.

 

While my shift lever was kinda munged up, it was better than the used one I bought and I decided with some locktite it would be adequate. Got that put back together and decided to check every other bolt I could get to, since a caliper, wheel, trans, etc falling off would be bad.

 

Found a rear wheel bolt, one of the caliper bolts, one of the lever arm bolts and one of the passenger side foot peg plate bolts loose. None enough to be an immediate concern, but things that may have vibrated loose over time.

The big allen bolts in the swing arm.  I didn't try to do a torque sequence on them or tighten them, just made sure they weren't loose.

 

Overall it seems like nothing is going to fall off.  Rode it to work Monday.  Its always nice to be on the bike, saves me about 1:15 a day riding vs the car thanks to splitting and the free hov lanes.