2016 R1200RT-LC with 46K miles runs rough at startup

[KSB]

2016 R1200RT-LC with 46K miles runs rough (shakes, gurgles) when started shortly (15-30 minutes) after a ride (usually starts OK when totally cold).  It sounds to me like it is running very rich.  Clears out and runs fine after a few seconds.  This started happening occasionally about 3K miles ago and now occurs almost every time: lots of gas fill-ups from different stations, hi-test only, cams changed out about 500 miles ago under service bulletin, software build done, no diagnostic codes thrown, new spark plugs installed.  No recent changes to engine or electrical additions before this started.  I am the original owner; all services completed on time by dealer, extended warranty in affect.  Dealer cannot find cause.  Any suggestions to what the cause, or solution, might be would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Karl

[wbw6cos]

Did you put any additives in the gas at fill-up?

[dirtrider]

16 minutes ago, KSB said:

2016 R1200RT-LC with 46K miles runs rough (shakes, gurgles) when started shortly (15-30 minutes) after a ride (usually starts OK when totally cold).  It sounds to me like it is running very rich.  Clears out and runs fine after a few seconds.  This started happening occasionally about 3K miles ago and now occurs almost every time: lots of gas fill-ups from different stations, hi-test only, cams changed out about 500 miles ago under service bulletin, software build done, no diagnostic codes thrown, new spark plugs installed.  No recent changes to engine or electrical additions before this started.  I am the original owner; all services completed on time by dealer, extended warranty in affect.  Dealer cannot find cause.  Any suggestions to what the cause, or solution, might be would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Karl

 

Morning Karl

 

That type of problem is usually  darn difficult to find & isolate.

 

Does it make any difference if the bike is placed on center stand rather than on side stand? (if problem is worse with bike on side stand then possibly some oil is settling in the low side cylinder at hot soak).

 

Another place to look is at your hot soak cranking battery voltage. I have seen a few older 1200 hexheads run similar after a hot soak re-start  & it was due to warm engine low cranking voltage messing up the fueling computer adaptives.  This is a difficult to diagnose issue & usually takes either a new fully charged battery or a jump for another battery to define. BUT, the low cranking voltage can usually be seen on a precision voltmeter.

 

Otherwise possibly a dripping fuel injector at hot engine shut-down  (can sometimes be isolated  by disconnecting fuel pump power then allowing fuel system  to run out of fuel for hot engine shut-down. (if no pressurized fuel remaining in the fuel rail  then it can't drip at hot soak).

 

Obviously engine sensor issues could be the (or part of) the issue but I presume that your dealer checked & verified those as not being the cause (they DID didn't they?)

 

Was the problem there prior to the cam replacement? If not then possibly the ignition cam sensor isn't timed properly. (this would be kind of reaching though as it seems to run OK once cleaned out).

 

One thing that you can do is try to define WHEN the problem started to occur, then try to remember if anything on the bike was changed,  or done (service wise) at about that time frame.

 

 

 

 

[KSB]

5 hours ago, wbw6cos said:

Did you put any additives in the gas at fill-up?

 

No additive added.

[KSB]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Karl

 

That type of problem is usually  darn difficult to find & isolate.

 

Does it make any difference if the bike is placed on center stand rather than on side stand? (if problem is worse with bike on side stand then possibly some oil is settling in the low side cylinder at hot soak).  I'll try placing it on the center stand.

 

Another place to look is at your hot soak cranking battery voltage. I have seen a few older 1200 hexheads run similar after a hot soak re-start  & it was due to warm engine low cranking voltage messing up the fueling computer adaptives.  This is a difficult to diagnose issue & usually takes either a new fully charged battery or a jump for another battery to define. BUT, the low cranking voltage can usually be seen on a precision voltmeter.  Battery replaced July 2018 at 39K miles.  I will suggest that dealer perform this voltage test.

 

Otherwise possibly a dripping fuel injector at hot engine shut-down  (can sometimes be isolated  by disconnecting fuel pump power then allowing fuel system  to run out of fuel for hot engine shut-down. (if no pressurized fuel remaining in the fuel rail  then it can't drip at hot soak).  I will suggest that dealer perform this  test.

 

Obviously engine sensor issues could be the (or part of) the issue but I presume that your dealer checked & verified those as not being the cause (they DID didn't they?)  Don't know, but I will bring this to their attention.

 

Was the problem there prior to the cam replacement? If not then possibly the ignition cam sensor isn't timed properly. (this would be kind of reaching though as it seems to run OK once cleaned out).  Problem started prior to the cam change and didn't get immediately worse after so I don't think these two things are related.

 

One thing that you can do is try to define WHEN the problem started to occur, then try to remember if anything on the bike was changed,  or done (service wise) at about that time frame.  If I remember correctly, this happened soon after the 42K (6K) service was done.

 

THANKS Dirt Rider.  I will post as/if any changes occur. 

 

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

 

 

 

[John in VA]

Maybe check fuel breather hose/valve/cannister? Just guessing.

[KSB]

Thanks John, worth a try.

[DLBurtt]

I installed the Booster Plug and it really helped smooth out idle and acceleration in first and second gears.

[KSB]

DL

Can you provide me more info on the booster plug?  I searched the site,but found nothing yet I do remember reading about it a lot in the past.

 

[alegerlotz]

The booster plug helps a motorcycle that's running properly.  If there's something wrong with your bike (which is sounds like there is) the booster plug won't fix it.

[KSB]

Thanks Alegerlotz.  Glad I didn't pursue this idea.