Y2K R11RT timing after replace HES

[Luky]

So I replaced my HES last summer on my RT (along with a full service II, new plug wires and new odyssey battery) and used a timing light to set the idle/static timing. It ran OK for a little while but then I started having issues with it stalling out when idling. It would just start running rough and the idle would drop enough that it stalls (worse when cold). It was especially prone to this as I was coming to a stop and pulled in the clutch/ released the throttle. I got the new battery and resynced the TB as perfect as I could get them and set the idle about 1100-1200 (was at 1000). I don't like it dying every light or stop sign so I have not ridden it in quite a few months. So I have some time and it is finally warm and sunny here so I thought I would check the timing again. I have a timing light with the adjustable advance dial on the back and want to confirm I am doing this correctly...

 

From what I have found in my searches it seems with the bike idling, and the timing gun advance knob set to 6 degrees, I should see the "S" in the flywheel timing window, correct? I tweaked the HES plate a little to clearly see the "S" and it seems to be running much better (showing the "S" at 6 degrees advance), but I have not taken it off the lift yet to ride it... Or should I adjust the HES to see the "OT" (which seems to be about 10 degrees now)? I would appreciate if someone (DR?) can clarify this for me before I go putting it all back together.

 

TIA

Luky

[dirtrider]

So I replaced my HES last summer on my RT (along with a full service II, new plug wires and new odyssey battery) and used a timing light to set the idle/static timing. It ran OK for a little while but then I started having issues with it stalling out when idling. It would just start running rough and the idle would drop enough that it stalls (worse when cold). It was especially prone to this as I was coming to a stop and pulled in the clutch/ released the throttle. I got the new battery and resynced the TB as perfect as I could get them and set the idle about 1100-1200 (was at 1000). I don't like it dying every light or stop sign so I have not ridden it in quite a few months. So I have some time and it is finally warm and sunny here so I thought I would check the timing again. I have a timing light with the adjustable advance dial on the back and want to confirm I am doing this correctly...

 

From what I have found in my searches it seems with the bike idling, and the timing gun advance knob set to 6 degrees, I should see the "S" in the flywheel timing window, correct? I tweaked the HES plate a little to clearly see the "S" and it seems to be running much better (showing the "S" at 6 degrees advance), but I have not taken it off the lift yet to ride it... Or should I adjust the HES to see the "OT" (which seems to be about 10 degrees now)? I would appreciate if someone (DR?) can clarify this for me before I go putting it all back together.

 

TIA

Luky

 

Afternoon Lucky

 

What bike? Is this on your 1100? If so see below.

 

The RPM needs to be under 1000 to use the OT or S mark, you can use the S mark but that can vary quite a bit if your idle RPM is high.

 

Personally, I use the Z mark at high RPM (when it quits advancing any higher as you revv it the Z should be centered in the timing hole). Caution: do this quickly as the exhaust heat will get pretty darn hot above the pipes. (or put a couple of good fans on the engine).

 

 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Hello DR, yes this is for my 2000 R1100 RT. I thought I read the motronic 2.2 is auto adjusting the timing above ~1100 rpm? At high RPM (5k?) I could see the timing mark with the gun set about 36 degrees.

 

So, if the idle is ~1000rpm, then I should see the OT mark in the window with 0 degree advance on the timing gun knob? Is this correct?

 

Evening Lucky

 

At very low RPM's (like cranking speed) it should be close to the OT mark, running engine under 1000 RPM's it should be close to the S mark, & at 5000 RPM's it should be close to the Z mark. (all these with no advance programed into your T light)

 

With timing light set to 43° the OT mark should show in the timing window (give or take on this one).

 

Are you using the 2 cycle engine advance setting? You might need to use the 2 cycle setting (if your light has that) as the BMW 1100 boxer sparks EVERY piston up (lost spark system) so actually sparks like a 2 cycle engine. Some newer lights are designed for lost park systems so might automatically be correct.

 

[Luky]

Hello DR, yes this is for my 2000 R1100 RT. I thought I read the motronic 2.2 is auto adjusting the timing above ~1100 rpm?

 

 

Just checked again and about 4k RPM I could see the Z timing mark with the gun set at 0 degrees.

 

At idle I see the "S" with the gun showing 6 degrees advance. At zeror degree on the gun I see the top edge of the timing mark "plate" above the "S".

 

At idle if I dial the gun to ~ 10 or 12 degrees I see the OT mark

Edited June 23, 2018 by Luky

[dirtrider]

Evening Luky

 

 

I thought I read the motronic 2.2 is auto adjusting the timing above ~1100 rpm? --Yes, it automatically adjusts but it has a MAX advance of about 43° btdc.

 

Just checked again and about 4k RPM I could see the Z timing mark with the gun set at 0 degrees.--This is the important one & sounds correct.

 

At idle I see the "S" with the gun showing 6 degrees advance. At zero degree on the gun I see the top edge of the timing mark "plate" above the "S".--As mentioned this will vary a bit due to engine idle RPM & just starting on the programed advance (this is usually not real accurate)

 

At idle if I dial the gun to ~ 10 or 12 degrees I see the OT mark--Should be about 6° (give or take). Is your T light on the 2 cycle setting? A 4 cycle only adjustable timing light probably won't read correctly on the 1100 boxer due to a spark every piston up.

 

[Luky]

At very low RPM's (like cranking speed) it should be close to the OT mark, running engine under 1000 RPM's it should be close to the S mark, & at 5000 RPM's it should be close to the Z mark. (all these with no advance programed into your T light)

 

With timing light set to 43° the OT mark should show in the timing window (give or take on this one).

 

 

OK I think I understand this.

 

 

Are you using the 2 cycle engine advance setting? You might need to use the 2 cycle setting (if your light has that) as the BMW 1100 boxer sparks EVERY piston up (lost spark system) so actually sparks like a 2 cycle engine. Some newer lights are designed for lost park systems so might automatically be correct.

 

I have had this timing gun for probably 20 years from my old 78 Suzuki GS750 (befere my RT) for setting the points/condensers and timing. I don't think it has a 2 cycle setting... Just a timing advance knob on the back. It's one of these ACTRON CP7519

[dirtrider]

 

 

I have had this timing gun for probably 20 years from my old 78 Suzuki GS750 (befere my RT) for setting the points/condensers and timing. I don't think it has a 2 cycle setting... Just a timing advance knob on the back. It's one of these ACTRON CP7519

 

Evening Lucky

 

I wouldn't trust that timing light to be accurate on the BMW boxer as far as dialing in advance. Should work just fine as a standard timing light though.

 

If you are getting the Z mark in the timing window at 4K & above then you are good-to-go.

 

[Luky]

Evening Lucky

 

I wouldn't trust that timing light to be accurate on the BMW boxer as far as dialing in advance. Should work just fine as a standard timing light though.

 

If you are getting the Z mark in the timing window at 4K & above then you are good-to-go.

 

Evening DR, seems we keep passing in the night.

 

Thank you for the advise. I will go give it another tweak with the gun set at zero advance and high RPM check to see the Z in the window...

 

Is there a "2 cycle" timing light you could recommend with the advance knob? I did not see one pop up on Amazon with a quick search. Maybe it's a specialty motorcycle tool?

[Luky]

OK, I think I got it correct now. At idle (~1100-1200 on tach) with the gun at 0 degrees I see the OT (jumping around a bit). About 4500 rpm I now have the Z centered in the window (gun at 0 degrees). It was a "substantial" change from where I started... The scribe line on my HES plate is now about 2mm past (CCW) the mark on the engine and it seems to be idling much smoother now which increased the RPM a bit so now the idle is ~1200 rpm.

 

Thanks for your help and patience (again) DR!

[dirtrider]

OK, I think I got it correct now. At idle (~1100-1200 on tach) with the gun at 0 degrees I see the OT (jumping around a bit). About 4500 rpm I now have the Z centered in the window (gun at 0 degrees). It was a "substantial" change from where I started... The scribe line on my HES plate is now about 2mm past (CCW) the mark on the engine and it seems to be idling much smoother now which increased the RPM a bit so now the idle is ~1200 rpm.

 

Thanks for your help and patience (again) DR!

 

Evening Lucky

 

 

Sounds like you are in-time.

 

I really can't recommend a 2stroke/4 stroke timing light as I have a very old Snap-On with all the markings worn off. (If I ever see one like it that has identifications on it I will give you a PM).

 

There were also some timing lights available with a simple dual scale dial on the back with a dial that reads 10/5, 20/10, 30/15, 40/20, 50/25, 60/30. (simple but somewhat effective)--even yours will work if you adjust for the 360° spark firing rather than the 720° spark firing but I wouldn't count on it being spot on accurate.

 

You shouldn't have a lot of problems finding a 4stroke/2 stroke adjustable timing light as they are around.

 

Truthfully, using the Z mark is the best way as THAT (max advance) is the timing area that is most important.