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Alternator Removal


RPG

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2004 R1150RT, 94k

 

Is there a preferred method for removing the alternator?

 

thanks,

 

RPG

 

Evening Rick

 

Darn good question, side panels fuel tank removal are a must but after that there are basically 2 ways to go.

 

Remove the engine front alternator mounting plate (front of engine) & that usually includes the front shock, engine oil, & front exhaust.

 

Or remove the battery, Motronic & ABS pump. (some leave the ABS pump in place but loosen it then try to move it & work around it). (I usually remove the ABS pump & get it the heck out of the way)

 

If you don't have any oil leaks at front of engine & have no reason to inspect the front accessory shaft chain, or a need to remove the front exhaust for cleaning or powder coating then probably the Motronic, battery & ABS pump way is the best approach.

 

Removing alternator out the back can be a real trial of patience & test your ingenuity.

 

Why are you removing it?

 

 

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2004 R1150RT, 94k

 

Is there a preferred method for removing the alternator?

 

thanks,

 

RPG

 

Evening Rick

 

Darn good question, side panels fuel tank removal are a must but after that there are basically 2 ways to go.

 

Remove the engine front alternator mounting plate (front of engine) & that usually includes the front shock, engine oil, & front exhaust.

 

Or remove the battery, Motronic & ABS pump. (some leave the ABS pump in place but loosen it then try to move it & work around it). (I usually remove the ABS pump & get it the heck out of the way)

 

If you don't have any oil leaks at front of engine & have no reason to inspect the front accessory shaft chain, or a need to remove the front exhaust for cleaning or powder coating then probably the Motronic, battery & ABS pump way is the best approach.

 

Removing alternator out the back can be a real trial of patience & test your ingenuity.

 

Why are you removing it?

 

 

Hi D.R. and thank you for the directions.

 

I picked up a voltage regulator (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BOSCH-Voltage-Regulator-BMW-R-K-12-31-1-739-365-p/boalt-reg365.htm)

to increase the voltage slightly for my AGM battery.

 

And with 100k on the meter and a big trip planned this year, i thought it a good time to inspect the unit a little more closely.

 

I think I'll be trying the rear approach. :)

 

Regards,

RPG

 

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Morning Rick

 

If you don't positively need to remove the alternator & can trust just spinning the rotor for smooth noise free bearing operation then you can probably replace the voltage regulator with the alternator in place (kind of a bugger to reposition the rear alternator plastic cover & work the regulator out from under it) but it "c-a-n" be done without removing the alternator.

 

If you choose to do it this way please remove all the women & children from the area as your language choice might not be PG rated during the process.

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RPG,

 

+1 on what Dirt Rider said above.

 

I replaced the volt reg on my R1100S with the alt in place and for the same reason and same reg. I understand the 1100S has more in common with the 1150 than the 1100. Remove the Phillips head screws on the back of the cover, remove the cables/wires, rotate the cove by extreme fiddling until the cable connection cutout in the side of the cover is over the volt reg. Two screws and the reg swaps out easily. Then more extreme fiddling. It really didn't take that long, maybe 20 min after the tank is off.

 

 

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I looked at the amount of work involved and decided to forget it. I have my Odyssey on a battery tender most of the time anyway, and my alternator's working fine for now.

 

I do enough cussing working on my other projects anyway. LOL!

 

Thanks

 

RPG

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To give you a little piece of mind, my 04 R1150RT now has 183k miles on the original alternator without any trouble.

Edited by kioolt
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To give you a little piece of mind, my 04 R1150RT now has 183k miles on the original alternator without any trouble.

 

That's what I'm thinkin. Let sleeping dogs lie.

 

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RPG,

 

Depending on the BatteryTINDER model you have, it may NOT keep your AGM fully charged. Most of the BatteryTINDER chargers run at about 14.0V, which is enough for a flooded cell battery, but AGM's need 14.5 minimum to get to 100% charge. The Motronic likes a fully charged battery, plus a fully charged battery lasts much longer. Also, that new volt reg from EME comes with new brushes. Anyway get yourself an AGM charger/maintainer /desulfator to keep it healthy and you riding. I picked up one of these on Amazone for $50: "BatteryMINDer Model 1510: 12V-1.5 Amp Maintenance Charger/Desulfator Designed for Cars, Trucks, Motorcycles, ATV, Boat, RV, etc."

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I picked up a new charger last year (CTEK 12v Multi US 7002 7 Amp Smart Charger), so I hope I'm good. I haven't seen any smoke anyway. LOL!

 

RPG

 

Morning Rick

 

I think that you will really like that CTEK charger, it has a setting that will cover about anything 12volt & has enough AMP output to properly run the absorption cycle for your PC 680.

 

Next time that you do a brake service & have the fuel tank removed you can worm that new voltage regulator into the alternator without removing it.

 

 

 

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I picked up a new charger last year (CTEK 12v Multi US 7002 7 Amp Smart Charger), so I hope I'm good. I haven't seen any smoke anyway. LOL!

 

RPG

 

Morning Rick

 

I think that you will really like that CTEK charger, it has a setting that will cover about anything 12volt & has enough AMP output to properly run the absorption cycle for your PC 680.

 

Next time that you do a brake service & have the fuel tank removed you can worm that new voltage regulator into the alternator without removing it.

 

 

 

Good to know D.R. So far, I do like the CTEK alot. And next time I have the tank off, like you say......

 

And here I thought I could easily remove the alternator, take it inside to my workshop, take my time, clean it, and do it right. Haaa!

 

My problem, so often is that I hate to leave the bike out of service for any length of time, the RT is that good. :)

 

RPG

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