AndyS Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 For those of you who have fitted Clearwater units, where did you tap into the high beam cable and why did you choose that location? Link to comment
Bill_Walker Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 I didn't. I installed a CANopener, which takes care of that, plus lets you program the output level of the Darlas using the wonder wheel. And if you add a Billie brake light, it controls that, too. Link to comment
marcopolo Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 I didn't. I installed a CANopener, which takes care of that, plus lets you program the output level of the Darlas using the wonder wheel. And if you add a Billie brake light, it controls that, too. Ditto. I have Darlas, and a Billie Jr., both controlled via the wonderwheel, after installing the CANopener module. Link to comment
AndyS Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 I see. Well, I'm a trying to avoid splashing out the extra cash for the Canopener. I dislike the Wonderwheel already. To yet another function for me to have to muddle through. So I will tap into the high beam feed and hope it doesn't throw up a fault. Link to comment
Bill_Walker Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 I see. Well, I'm a trying to avoid splashing out the extra cash for the Canopener. I dislike the Wonderwheel already. To yet another function for me to have to muddle through. So I will tap into the high beam feed and hope it doesn't throw up a fault. With the CANopener, you really only use the Wonder Wheel during setup, or if you decided that the values you chose need to be changed. It's not something you do while riding. You set a low-beam brightness level for daylight and one for dark (or just use the factory defaults. They always go to full brightness with the high beam), and whether the Darlas go full bright or strobe or do nothing when you activate your horn. And then you go riding and don't think about it any more. Link to comment
RTinNC Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 I see. Well, I'm a trying to avoid splashing out the extra cash for the Canopener. I dislike the Wonderwheel already. To yet another function for me to have to muddle through. So I will tap into the high beam feed and hope it doesn't throw up a fault. With the CANopener, you really only use the Wonder Wheel during setup, or if you decided that the values you chose need to be changed. It's not something you do while riding. You set a low-beam brightness level for daylight and one for dark (or just use the factory defaults. They always go to full brightness with the high beam), and whether the Darlas go full bright or strobe or do nothing when you activate your horn. And then you go riding and don't think about it any more. Exactly! Have never touched mine since the install. Link to comment
alexp Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 I see. Well, I'm a trying to avoid splashing out the extra cash for the Canopener. I dislike the Wonderwheel already. To yet another function for me to have to muddle through. So I will tap into the high beam feed and hope it doesn't throw up a fault. With the CANopener, you really only use the Wonder Wheel during setup, or if you decided that the values you chose need to be changed. It's not something you do while riding. You set a low-beam brightness level for daylight and one for dark (or just use the factory defaults. They always go to full brightness with the high beam), and whether the Darlas go full bright or strobe or do nothing when you activate your horn. And then you go riding and don't think about it any more. Exactly! Have never touched mine since the install. Link to comment
AndyS Posted December 15, 2017 Author Share Posted December 15, 2017 So, I didn't go down the CanOpener route. I tapped into the high beam on the connector that connects to the headlight housing. It made for a very neat install. I also have a push switch near the radio buttons and that is my 'on/off' control which is controlling the PDM60. Link to comment
RiverRunner Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 (edited) From a safety standpoint, I'd spend the dollars for the CANopener to have the running lights on during the day and flash/strobe with the horn - I often think people waiting to get on the highway ahead of me are "Looking Through Me" and not seeing me - I'd like the horn induced strobe to make me feel better that they see me. I'll buy this set up with the Billie brake light, but my wife runs a '17 GSA too so it will cost me 2x.........again, that flash strobe is worth the cost to me versus an on / off solution. Merry X-Mas Folks - Clearwater needs an X-Mas sale! Buy One, Get One Free? Edited December 16, 2017 by RiverRunner Link to comment
AndyS Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 Ah, RiverRunner, that's where we differ. I can't stand seeing too much light and flashing lights on a bike. I can't work out their size and closing speed. For me, lights are good in the daytime, BUT dimmer lights so you can get a sense of scale. distance and speed. Link to comment
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