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R1100S 'surges' and 'hesitates' after addition of CatEliminator Pipe?


Corcrum

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I put a cat eliminator pipe on by '99 R1100S (50,000 miles) and now the bike has noticeably more pep and power. It really made a difference in performance, and I dig the way it sounds now. BUT... the bike has picked up a new habit since I installed the pipe: It's hard to maintain a constant RPM number - if I keep the throttle in one position, say 4,000 rpm while cruising on the freeway, the bike feels as though it is (slightly) losing power, like fuel starved? So then I have to roll the throttle open to get back up to speed I want to maintain, at which point the bike then jerks forward like I applied too much throttle. This is a constant condition, happening ALL the time. It's become very annoying. And thoughts or advice apppreciated!

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I put a cat eliminator pipe on by '99 R1100S (50,000 miles) and now the bike has noticeably more pep and power. It really made a difference in performance, and I dig the way it sounds now. BUT... the bike has picked up a new habit since I installed the pipe: It's hard to maintain a constant RPM number - if I keep the throttle in one position, say 4,000 rpm while cruising on the freeway, the bike feels as though it is (slightly) losing power, like fuel starved? So then I have to roll the throttle open to get back up to speed I want to maintain, at which point the bike then jerks forward like I applied too much throttle. This is a constant condition, happening ALL the time. It's become very annoying. And thoughts or advice apppreciated!

 

Afternoon John

 

If the bike now has noticeably more pep and power something else is involved (cat eliminator pipe alone just doesn't give that much performance gain).

 

Any other changes made when pipe was installed? Like o2 sensor removal, or CCP change, or ?????

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Hi D.R.,

 

I reinstalled 02 sensor on new cat elim pipe. I say 'pep and power' but what the bike really seemed to have was more torque - like faster off the line, and maybe revved a little faster under power? Maybe not a huge gain, but noticeable...

 

Sorry, what's CCP?

 

Can't think of anything else I did.

 

Could better air flow of pipe addition require adjustment to fuel injection?

Edited by Corcrum
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Afternoon Corcrum

 

Sorry, what's CCP? It's the Cat Coding Plug in the fuse box --Basically determines the fueling/spark map.

 

Can't think of anything else I did.-- If you think of anything post it up here.

 

Could better air flow of pipe addition require adjustment to fuel injection? --Probably not as the o2 sensor should compensate for any pipe flow difference. That new pipe just shouldn't have added much to the air flow a the stock pipe isn't the cork in the system.

 

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Edited by dirtrider
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So maybe it could be the CCP?

 

As I'm maintaining throttle position and riding on level ground, just about any speed, the bike starts to slow itself as though fuel starved (reminds me of that feeling when you're very first starting to run out of gas). I then try to roll on the throttle ever so slowly (so that bike doesn't jerk forward and scare my passenger on back) but invariably the bike still jerks as though the throttle was snapped open, rather than slowly rolled open.

 

But every now and then, if I roll it open very, very slowly - there's no jerk, but rather the motor shudders as it tries to make additional power in response to more throttle.

 

Annoying because there is no cruising at a constant rate. Not a problem when I'm racing through the twisties because I'm always getting on the throttle, then brake, then throttle, etc.

 

But there is no achieving a constant cruise speed now - I'm forever always slightly speed up or slightly slowing down...

 

Argh!

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So maybe it could be the CCP?

 

As I'm maintaining throttle position and riding on level ground, just about any speed, the bike starts to slow itself as though fuel starved (reminds me of that feeling when you're very first starting to run out of gas). I then try to roll on the throttle ever so slowly (so that bike doesn't jerk forward and scare my passenger on back) but invariably the bike still jerks as though the throttle was snapped open, rather than slowly rolled open.

 

But every now and then, if I roll it open very, very slowly - there's no jerk, but rather the motor shudders as it tries to make additional power in response to more throttle.

 

Annoying because there is no cruising at a constant rate. Not a problem when I'm racing through the twisties because I'm always getting on the throttle, then brake, then throttle, etc.

 

But there is no achieving a constant cruise speed now - I'm forever always slightly speed up or slightly slowing down...

 

Argh!

 

Afternoon John

 

Any chance that you pulled or twisted the wires going to the o2 sensor when installing the pipe?

 

Try removing the CCP from the fuse box for a test ride.

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It's very possible I twisted those wires - in fact I'd prob guarantee I did.

 

Was hard to get the cat converter off and then the new pipe on- I wrestled with the 02 sensor to the point where I wouldn't be surprised if I tweaked its wires...

 

 

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John,

 

NOT to interrupt your discussion with Dirtrider but to relay my very limited experience (15 months) with my '99 R1100S in the pursuit of a little more pep. WHATEVER Dirtrider says, DO IT. I'm just a new amateur stumbling around but having fun trying different things, OK??

 

Mine was box stock when I got it, still have the OEM pipe. I've added EV14 injectors, Boxer Performance Inlet Duct, and Wilbers shocks, but the best single thing so far is an AF-XiED by NightRider. It didn't increase the pep so much as just made it easier to ride, not cold natured, no stalling, roll-on power is SO MUCH better. It just makes it run like it's "supposed" to run.

 

From everything I've read about this bike, the OEM exhaust is free flowing and not a problem, however timid it sounds. Its the Intake that is much more of a restriction. However, the In Duct didn't have so much effect, but then I have not had it installed but maybe 300 miles. I don't live at 8,000 rpm's either although I visit as often as possible.

 

That's just my pitiful, extremely limited experience so far. Let's see what the real word is from Dirtrider.

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It's very possible I twisted those wires - in fact I'd prob guarantee I did.

 

Was hard to get the cat converter off and then the new pipe on- I wrestled with the 02 sensor to the point where I wouldn't be surprised if I tweaked its wires...

 

 

Evening John

 

If there is a chance that you damaged that o2 sensor then definitely remove the CCP for a test as that will disable the o2 sensor from controlling the fueling.

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Can you help me locate the CCP on a 99 R1100S?

 

I can't seem to find a diagram on line that identifies it's appearance and location...

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The manual I have says that the 99 1100S has two fuses boxes inside the fairing on either side of the oil cooler. The CCP is located in the fuse box on the left side as you sit on the bike and at the front of the fuse box. It might be yellow, gray or some other color. Hope this helps.

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Dirt Rider and NW Ark:

 

I went to left side of bike (as seated on it) and removed the the plug at front of fuse box.

 

Bike seemed to run well, not hesitate as it had while cruising, but still jerks a bit on rolling the throttle open.

 

Is the change supposed to be immediate upon removal of the CCP?

 

 

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Hi DR,

 

I've always been told that removing the CCP doesn't take the O2 out of the loop with the Motronic 2.4. That seems to be how it works for me anyway. I had to physically unplug the O2 sensor to get my R1150 to the "no CCP" state.

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Hi DR,

 

I've always been told that removing the CCP doesn't take the O2 out of the loop with the Motronic 2.4. That seems to be how it works for me anyway. I had to physically unplug the O2 sensor to get my R1150 to the "no CCP" state.

 

Morning Jim

 

That is true, the Ma 2.4 won't lose o2 sensor control by removing the CCP. I kind of lost track that we were working with the Ma 2.4 here. All that stuck in my mind was the 1100 part.

 

 

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roger 04 rt

Corcrum,

When you removed the Coding Plug (CCP) and then turned the key on for the first time, you fully reset your Motronic. That may have helped.

 

My suggestion is you put back the correct CCP, turn the key on, and since that will again reset the Motronic, while the key is on, fully rotate the throttle twice to re-register the throttle valve sensor (TPS). Then take it for a ride.

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Dirt Rider and NW Ark:

 

I went to left side of bike (as seated on it) and removed the the plug at front of fuse box.

 

Bike seemed to run well, not hesitate as it had while cruising, but still jerks a bit on rolling the throttle open.

 

Is the change supposed to be immediate upon removal of the CCP?

 

 

Morning John

 

I kind of lost track that we were working on a Ma 2.4 system so you probably should re-install the CCP then disconnect the o2 sensor from the bike's wire harness. (kind of a pain to disconnect).

 

If it ran better with the CCP removed then we are probably on the right track with o2 sensor being corrupt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Any advice on where I find that O2 connection so I can disconnect, D.R.?

 

Afternoon John

 

You will probably have to lift the rear of the fuel tank & the connector should be under the right rear.

 

Or, you can just cut the black wire in the o2 sensor harness (that will stop the o2 sensor signal from reaching the Motronic). Just cut it in a place that you can repair it in the future if it turns out to not be the o2 sensor as the problem. (a simple repair is to just install a single terminal connector in cut the black wire)

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So, how did bike run before you decided to

make it better?

Not trying to be snarky, but why did you change things?

Almost always, if not always, anything except the fueling change Roger cited will have consequences.

Any perceived "gains" in some area are offset by changes in others.

Hope you get it sorted out.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I think that did the trick...

 

One more question? I'm shopping around for a used K1200LT - anything I should look for/avoid over and above the usual stuff?

 

I guess what I'm asking, are there any issues K12s are known for that I should be wary of?

 

Thanks,

 

John

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I think that did the trick...

 

One more question? I'm shopping around for a used K1200LT - anything I should look for/avoid over and above the usual stuff?

 

I guess what I'm asking, are there any issues K12s are known for that I should be wary of?

 

 

 

 

Morning John

 

Final drive issues (lots of final drive issues)

 

Electrical problems, mostly owner induced as it seems K1200LT owners like to add accessories without thought about proper wire routing or wire protection.

 

I don't know a lot of K1200LT owners but it seems the few do I do know have had some clutch problems. I'm not sure if it was owner induced, or 2 up riding with lots of gear & a trailer, or ????.

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