clutch cable replacement

[Robert Mayrand]

Clutch cable just broke on me while riding, a bit of a scary moment until I was able to safely downshift to a halt, a few friends riding with me told me that i Should'nt worry and that i could always just kill the engine......i don't think they realised that doing this at 90mph would just lock the wheel and send me sliding!

 

Anyway, got the replacement cable today and replaced it tonight, but i suspect that since the bike is almost 20 years old (1998 bmw r1100rt) the clutch adjustment on the transmission must have been retighten a few times. Presently, with the new cable, I have no play at the lever. The manual call for 12mm at the adjustment nut on the lever, and 7mm of freeplay between the clutch lever and it's frame, si i'm far from specs. I see that in the manual it says that for the gs you can adjust the nut on the transmission if necessary, but I guess this is an error, and that it could be done on any 1100. But it seem it takes a special tool to do so, and i must say that it's located at the rear of the transmission and is certainly not easily accessible. Any tips for replacement tool? and on how to do this without dismantling the whole bike?

 

Sorry for the long post.

 

Rob

Edited August 3, 2017 by Robert Mayrand

[Roger C]

I adjusted my '96 R1100RT clutch from the RH rear with conventional tools. Yeah, it helps to have small hands or those which will bend in odd positions--cause you will need to do that. A palm ratchet works great. Bike remained in one piece. :-)

 

There is/was a posting about a year ago I saw on this board and used that as my guide.

[Jim Moore]

I haven't done it in years on an RT, but I think you need to remove the kick plate on the left side. Then you can reach in and make the adjustment.

 

You don't need a special tool. The special tool is to hold the adjustment in place while you tighten the locknut. You can do the same thing by squeezing the clutch while you tighten the locknut. That will hold everything in place.

[Roger C]

Page 21.10 in the BMW repair manual shows a pictorial of adjusting the clutch on the rear of the tranny. The pictorial is from the RH side. I believe I removed the kick plate on the right hand side of the cycle to better access the adjuster nuts, but it could have been the LH side. So many repairs, foggy memory.

 

Rob, when you attached the clutch cable at the rear of the tranny, you were darn close to the adjustment nuts.

[szurszewski]

I did this as part of a service before selling my 1100RT about this time last year. I'd done it once before going in from the back (that time I took off the rear tire and used some extensions), but the more recent adjustment was made by taking off the left side panel based on a suggestion I'd seen here, and using the clutch to hold the adjustment while tightening.

 

I'm sure I found a thread here with tips and then posted in that thread - I'm trying to see if I can find it, but no luck yet...

 

You definitely do NOT need a special tool for it either way.

 

edit to say:

 

I still can't find the post I want here, but I found this youtube video - I can't actually listen to it now, so I don't necessarily endorse what he says, but it DOES show good pics of getting to the back of the tranny from the left side.

 

 

edit -again- to say:

 

Ok - maybe I didn't post there, but I think this is the thread I used the second time and found it MUCH easier than going in from the rear with an extension etc. and I particularly like the part about using the lever tension to hold things while you tighten the locknut.

 

So, this post and then the one right below it -

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=54884&Number=992915#Post992915

Edited August 3, 2017 by szurszewski

[Roger C]

On the RT models, there is more plastic to remove, as the left side fairing bolts to the kick plate. I was able to adjust my clutch cable at the rear by going in from the right hand side by simply removing the V-shaped plastic piece. I had a straight shot at the clutch lock nut and adjuster bolt, just in front of the shock spring, using a deep socket and a flexible elbow on a long extension. My clutch cable attaches to the lever which goes thru the bracket to the right. Tied off the clutch lever and loosened the adjuster bolt, then locked down the lock nut. EZPZ.

[Robert Mayrand]

Thanks everybody! Everything went well, just have to remove the left

Foot plate, took about 10 minutes!

Rob

[Roger C]

I'll try your method next time I need to adjust my cable.

[Tri750]

Clutch cable just broke on me while riding, a bit of a scary moment until I was able to safely downshift to a halt, a few friends riding with me told me that i Should'nt worry and that i could always just kill the engine......i don't think they realised that doing this at 90mph would just lock the wheel and send me sliding!

 

Anyway, got the replacement cable today and replaced it tonight, but i suspect that since the bike is almost 20 years old (1998 bmw r1100rt) the clutch adjustment on the transmission must have been retighten a few times. Presently, with the new cable, I have no play at the lever. The manual call for 12mm at the adjustment nut on the lever, and 7mm of freeplay between the clutch lever and it's frame, si i'm far from specs. I see that in the manual it says that for the gs you can adjust the nut on the transmission if necessary, but I guess this is an error, and that it could be done on any 1100. But it seem it takes a special tool to do so, and i must say that it's located at the rear of the transmission and is certainly not easily accessible. Any tips for replacement tool? and on how to do this without dismantling the whole bike?

 

Sorry for the long post.

 

Rob

 

If the cable broke at the lever, like right at the lead barrel, it's a symptom of the lever hole being worn egg-shaped and in a few months, the cable will break again due to the barrel not rotating within the hole, but the cable flexing on the stationary barrel.

One can reshape the hole to be round, check for barrel rotation, but replacing the lever is smarter tho expensive. Beemer Boneyard may have a new lever avail. Always grease the barrel when inserting it in the lever and double check it's able to rotate. And check your freeplay at the lever often (when the bike is cold).