Relay Switches clicking

[TG R1150RT]

Hey gentlemen: attached is the video of my fuse box clicking noise. The blue and yellow relay (?) spots are clicking as noted with my finger on the video. The low beam is out and needs replacement. I dont have a diagram and having a hard time to find such for my model.

 

1) are those relays for abs and lighting such as low beam?

 

2). Is it normal for abs relay to sound like it? When I turn the ignition ON to start the bike, I hear no clicking noises

 

 

Any feedback to correct my understanding and providing solution would be greatly appreciated. Yes, the bike runs fine.

 

 

[TG R1150RT]

System wont allow me to add the video but the relay (?) switches are blue and yellow. Definately not fuses!

[dirtrider]

Hey gentlemen: attached is the video of my fuse box clicking noise. The blue and yellow relay (?) spots are clicking as noted with my finger on the video. The low beam is out and needs replacement. I dont have a diagram and having a hard time to find such for my model.

 

1) are those relays for abs and lighting such as low beam?

 

2). Is it normal for abs relay to sound like it? When I turn the ignition ON to start the bike, I hear no clicking noises

 

 

Any feedback to correct my understanding and providing solution would be greatly appreciated. Yes, the bike runs fine.

 

 

Evening TG R1150RT

 

What are you working on? I see you are TG R1150RT but you might be working on something different.

 

I don't see a video either.

 

If an 1150 bike the ABS relay clicking at the same rate as the dash warning light is normal until you ride off.

 

Look inside your fuse box cover as a lot of the BMW's have a fuse & relay map glued to the inside of the fuse box cover.

 

Added: if an 1150 bike then the ABS (ABS dash light) relay should be in front row far right.

Edited July 2, 2017 by dirtrider

[TG R1150RT]

Hey dirtrider. Its a 2004 bmw r1150rt. There is no diagram. Let me try to attach a video although the system is not allowing me..

[TG R1150RT]

Here is a snapshot. ABS I get it now as the click is going simultaneously as abs warning sign upront. But the other click- is that due to needing low beam?

 

I get error in adding image and video---kinda frustrating

 

Thanks a lot!!!

[dirtrider]

Hey dirtrider. Its a 2004 bmw r1150rt. There is no diagram. Let me try to attach a video although the system is not allowing me..

 

Evening TG R1150RT

 

You need to host the video on a host site then post a link here.

[kioolt]

My bet is that your low beam bulb is blown and nothing else is wrong. Most likely you will be able to see if it is blown when you remove it. Before you start tearing into your wiring and relays just change the bulb. As far as I know there is no relay in the headlight circuit.

[dirtrider]

My bet is that your low beam bulb is blown and nothing else is wrong. Most likely you will be able to see if it is blown when you remove it. Before you start tearing into your wiring and relays just change the bulb. As far as I know there is no relay in the headlight circuit.

 

Evening kioolt

 

The headlight runs through the load relief relay (load shed) relay.

 

If the flash-to-pass & dash lights work that relay is probably OK.

Edited July 2, 2017 by dirtrider

[dirtrider]

Evening 1150RT

 

As Kioolt mentioned it could be a burnt out bulb.

 

Any chance your bike has the European headlight switch added by a previous owner? If so is it turned off by mistake?

 

It isn't a 1150RT-P (police bike) is it?

[TG R1150RT]

How do I host the video on the host site from my phone recording?

 

Sorry for my ignorance...

[dirtrider]

How do I host the video on the host site from my phone recording?

 

Sorry for my ignorance...

 

Evening TG R1150RT

 

I can't help you with what site to host on or how to do it but maybe we don't even need a video.

 

What did the video show? We have seen a LOT of BMW failures so if you can explain it in detail we can probably figure out what the video would have showed us.

 

If it just showed a relay clicking we definitely don't need a video to see that (just tell us what relay (where in fuse box) was clicking)

[TG R1150RT]

It is the blue and yellow colored relays (abs and motronic?)

 

Here is a video post i made to facebook with the link...

 

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1684750418491632/permalink/1747597542206919/

[dirtrider]

It is the blue and yellow colored relays (abs and motronic?)

 

Here is a video post i made to facebook with the link...

 

 

Evening TG R1150RT

 

Again, what are the relay's doing that you need help with.

 

Are you here for information on your headlight not working, or for a relay problem, or are you just after relay info???? I guess I'm still not sure what you are here asking.

 

The video that you posted isn't real clear so doesn't show the front divider in the front row of the fuse box so I really can't tell for SURE but if your bike has fog lights then the yellow relay is for fog lights & the blue relay is for the ABS dash warning light. (neither of those relays effect the headlight)

 

[kioolt]

TG R1150RT

 

There is no low beam or high beam relay unless it has been added by a previous owner. The only relay in the headlight circuit is the load shed relay previously mentioned by Dirtrider. If it has failed you would have more then just the low beam not working. I'm assuming your high beam works. My low beam on my 04 R1150RT has quit several times in the last 178k miles. It has always been the bulb.

[TG R1150RT]

D.R.

 

I appreciate your time and effort. Since I dont have close access (work) to the bike this evening,, I havent been able to provide any more information since the original post. When I go home, I will experiment with it. Will definately reach out once I have more information...

 

I do remember the following: the blue and yellow relay clicks would stop once ignition was ON and bike started. The dashboard lights had no warnings once the bike was running. My main concern has been- is it normal to hear those clicks prior to starting the bike? It is those yellow and blue relays that were making those clicking noises. The low and high beam bulbs were replaced with HID bulbs yesterday. They both worked fine since they were new. Today- the low beam bulb is not lighting up. I do have fog lights.

 

Appreciate the help! I am new to riding bikes and so I appreciate your patience!!

[TG R1150RT]

Kioolt

 

Absolutely right! My low beam failed but high beam works! But i just changed them yesterday to HID bulbs. Thats the funny thing!

 

Thanks so much for taking the time to write and help out a brother!

[kioolt]

The information about the HID lights is a need to know. Since you just put the lights in yesterday I would check the installation. If you have a voltmeter a good thing to check would be the 12vdc input to the ballast. If you've got good 12vdc to the ballast then the bike wiring is ok and your need HID conversion is the problem.

[Shiny Side Up]

Whoops

[dirtrider]

D.R.

 

 

I do remember the following: the blue and yellow relay clicks would stop once ignition was ON and bike started. The dashboard lights had no warnings once the bike was running. My main concern has been- is it normal to hear those clicks prior to starting the bike? It is those yellow and blue relays that were making those clicking noises. The low and high beam bulbs were replaced with HID bulbs yesterday. They both worked fine since they were new. Today- the low beam bulb is not lighting up. I do have fog lights.

 

Evening TG R1150RT

 

The yellow relay shouldn't click at all (only one short click when you turn the fog lights on or off), the blue relay should only be clicking when the dash brake light is flashing (the relay is what is flashing the dash light).

 

As for your low beam not working?- that will have to be trouble shot from your end. You need to start by verifying that you have both 12v power & a good ground going to your light ballast (or to the ballast pig tail wires)

 

Did the HID work after you installed it? If so then something went wrong since then.

 

You could have a broken or burnt wire, or bad HID parts, or a problem in the high beam/low beam switch, or a problem in the R/H switch pod. The headlight power actually goes to the R/H switch pod first, then through either a jumper wire or a headlight switch (if bike has the European headlight switch installed) then to the hi/lo switch & on to the headlight.

 

So start at the ballast & look for a good solid 12V & a good low resistance ground. If you have 12v at the ballast & a good ground at the ballast then your HID parts are more than likely the problem.

 

If you don't have 12v to the ballast then you have an open somewhere between the load shed relay & the head light ballast. (key-on or engine running you should have 12v to the headlight low beam unless the hi beams are on (that should also put dash hi beam indicator on).

 

If you used a power relay to power the HID ballast & triggered that relay with your OEM low beam wire then you will have to verify all that is working as it should.

 

Added: just thought? Did you install a REAL HID kit with ballast or just some new bulbs in the stock lamp housing with the stock connectors that were marketed or sold as HID something or other?

Edited July 3, 2017 by dirtrider

[kioolt]

Actually on an R1150RT the low beam is always on with the key on, even with the high beams. Low beam current does not go through the contacts on the high/low switch. The high/low switch is really just a switch that turns on the high beams.

[dirtrider]

Actually on an R1150RT the low beam is always on with the key on, even with the high beams. Low beam current does not go through the contacts on the high/low switch. The high/low switch is really just a switch that turns on the high beams.

 

Evening kioolt

 

Good thing that you caught that (I haven't owned an 1150 in a few years) as it forced me to look a my 2004 wire schematics. The 1150RT uses a headlight fuse #8 fuse.

 

[dirtrider]

Evening TG R1150RT

 

Check your #8 fuse to see if it is blown (I think it is 7.5 amps)--if you installed an HID kit maybe it draws more than the 7.5 amps & popped the fuse.

[kioolt]

You can find a wiring diagram here for your R1150RT.

 

http://www.mac-pac.org/tech/electrical-diagrams/

[dirtrider]

You can find a wiring diagram here for your R1150RT.

 

http://www.mac-pac.org/tech/electrical-diagrams/

 

Afternoon kioolt

 

Those are getting better but still contain a few errors so I still prefer my BMW dealer wire schematics.

[kioolt]

I've got the BMW Motorrad After Sales Stromlaufplane manual (01990028835) for the single spark R1150RT. I find it hard to read because most of it is in German. They do have translation to several other languages but not on the same page as the diagrams. Also, everything is described by numbers only, e.g. load relief relay only shows a relay with the number K9120. If your looking for the load relief relay you would first have to find out that it is K9120 by looking through several pages to find that information. When I bought this manual shortly after I got my 04 R1150RT I didn't think there would be that many differences between single and dual spark wiring. I though it would limited to the ignition system. I see now that the early R1150RT's had unfused headlights and that fuses were added for the headlights for dual spark models.

 

[dirtrider]

I've got the BMW Motorrad After Sales Stromlaufplane manual (01990028835) for the single spark R1150RT. I find it hard to read because most of it is in German. They do have translation to several other languages but not on the same page as the diagrams. Also, everything is described by numbers only, e.g. load relief relay only shows a relay with the number K9120. If your looking for the load relief relay you would first have to find out that it is K9120 by looking through several pages to find that information. When I bought this manual shortly after I got my 04 R1150RT I didn't think there would be that many differences between single and dual spark wiring. I though it would limited to the ignition system. I see now that the early R1150RT's had unfused headlights and that fuses were added for the headlights for dual spark models.

 

Afternoon kioolt

 

Not just a difference between the single spark & dual spark models but also between the early dual spark 1150's & the later dual spark models. About the time frame that BMW added the second load relief relay some more wiring changes were made. (early dual spark bikes didn't use the 2nd load relief relay)

[TG R1150RT]

DR and kioolt

 

Thank you both once again for your utmost sincerity to help a novice brother! I went through all of your suggestions!

 

Problem fixed! Fuse 8 was indeed blown due to 7.5 amps. Replaced it with 30amps hoping that is OK. Did an electrical charge test also on fhe ballast- found out that low beam ballast did not have an output charge. This was validated also by substituting the high beam ballast for the low beam- voila the low beam bulb lit! I will replace the ballast!

 

You guys rock!!!

[kioolt]

That's a bad idea to replace a 7.5 amp fuse with a 30 amp. You don't have any idea what size wire is used by BMW for that whole circuit. Since you found a bad ballast that is probably the reason for your blown fuse. Once you replace the bad ballast the 7.5 amp fuse might hold and you shouldn't need to care what size the wire is then. Do you have any link or other info you could share about the light kit your using so we could check out the specs and maybe be able to tell you what size fuse should work?

[dirtrider]

DR and kioolt

 

Thank you both once again for your utmost sincerity to help a novice brother! I went through all of your suggestions!

 

Problem fixed! Fuse 8 was indeed blown due to 7.5 amps. Replaced it with 30amps hoping that is OK. Did an electrical charge test also on fhe ballast- found out that low beam ballast did not have an output charge. This was validated also by substituting the high beam ballast for the low beam- voila the low beam bulb lit! I will replace the ballast!

 

Morning TG R1150RT

 

If you switched the bad ballast to the hi beams & the ballast is bad THAT could blow the #9 fuse (high beams run through the #9 fuse).

 

30 amp fuse is WAY too high for the low beam circuit, that could cause a wire harness fire if you get a short.

 

Personally I wouldn't go higher than a 10 amp fuse for normal usage (if it won't stay lit on a 10 amp then you need to add a power relay & fuse the load side to battery direct with correct sized wiring for the load. The smallest gauge wire that I see in the low beam circuit is 1.0mm so at the run length on the 1150 bike that should easily handle 10 amps but not 30 amps.

 

What is the amp requirement if the ballast & bulb that you are using? (should be in the paperwork that came with the kit)-- or call the supplying company.

 

 

[TG R1150RT]

DR. & Kioolt

 

Yep, I dont know what I am doing! I will look that up and figure it out! Remember gentlemen, I am still learning! You guys were also in my shoes once upon a time!

 

Thank you for your consistent support !

[AndyS]

Your HID kit should draw LESS current than the original bulb. As others have said, do not put a higher rated fuse in, it probably WILL end in tears.

Has this whole issue with relays ticking and fuses blowing only started since you tried to fit the lighting kit?

[dirtrider]

Afternoon TG R1150RT

 

Check your PM's-

 

I sent you a picture of the fuse box cover fuse & relay position & amp size. (shows fuse names & relay position names/positions)

 

Make a copy & place in your riders manual on on the bike somewhere. Or make a smaller copy & glue to the inside of your fuse box cover.

[TG R1150RT]

Thanks Andy for your reply! Yes clicking noise is no longer an issue. Working current of ballast is only 6.5 amp. Would 7.5amp be the closest fuse ? We should be OK installing that fuse correct?

[kioolt]

I'm not real familiar with the workings of HID light but I did find some mention that the start up current is higher. There was no mention of how quickly the startup current would last. You say the working current is 6.5 amps, for that current amount the 7.5 amp fuse should be ok. It's the startup current that may give you trouble. You could try the 7.5 amp fuse to see if it works without any problem. If the wire size is as dirtrider says then 10 amp would be my next choice.

[dirtrider]

Thanks Andy for your reply! Yes clicking noise is no longer an issue. Working current of ballast is only 6.5 amp. Would 7.5amp be the closest fuse ? We should be OK installing that fuse correct?

 

Afternoon TG R1150RT

 

6.5 amp draw on a 7.5 amp fuse is cutting it pretty close. (especially if the startup draw is slightly more)

 

You could probably get by with a 7.5 amp slow-blow fuse (if you could find one) but if it was me I would just use a standard 10 amp fuse then see how it works out.

 

The wiring into the #8 fuse is 1.5 mm so that is plenty large enough, & the wiring out of the #8 fuse is 1.0mm so it should run on a 10 amp fuse just fine (just a circuit or so away BMW runs a 15 amp circuit on a 1.0mm wire).

 

Added: If you are using the same ballast & light on the high beam then you might have the same issues there as it is also fused at 7.5 amps. (fuse #9)

Edited July 4, 2017 by dirtrider

[TG R1150RT]

Will do! Thanks very much!

[TG R1150RT]

DR

 

you mean wiring of fuse #9 is 1.0 mm?

[dirtrider]

DR

 

you mean wiring of fuse #9 is 1.0 mm?

 

Evening TG R1150RT

 

Yes, fuse #9 is for high beam & has a 1.0 mm wire between fuse & light. The #9 fuse is 7.5 amp (same as low beam).

[AndyS]

I don't know what HID units you are running. Typically they are single 35W units. So, steady state (once struck and stable) you will be drawing 3A. However, striking and stabilisation may well be in the order of 12A for 5-8 seconds. So your fuse situation is a dilemma. Slow blow 7.5A may cope.

On my 35W HID equipped R1152RT, the 7.5A works fine.

[TG R1150RT]

You guys have been more than helpful! I look forward to continue learning and growing in my knowledge from you all! Maybe soon some day, I will be able to pass on the torch and help other riders too!

 

Most Sincerely,

 

TG1150RT