2002 R1150 RT-P

[twstm]

Hello all, I used to to lurk on this forum regularly but since I sold my RT I have been absent.

 

Here's my question...I'm looking at a 2002 R1150 RT-P that has already been converted to two up. Crash bars removed etc. 66,000 miles. Anything I need to know or look out for ? He's asking $2900

 

[AndyS]

yes, look for a 2003 or later twin spark.

[twstm]

yes, look for a 2003 or later twin spark.

 

SO you are saying stay away from a 2002?

[dirtrider]

Hello all, I used to to lurk on this forum regularly but since I sold my RT I have been absent.

 

Here's my question...I'm looking at a 2002 R1150 RT-P that has already been converted to two up. Crash bars removed etc. 66,000 miles. Anything I need to know or look out for ? He's asking $2900

 

Morning twstm

 

With a used police bike you just never know what, or what condition, bike you will end up with. It could have been beat to death in an earlier life or might have only done light parade duty.

 

Of the 11500Rt series bikes the 2002 & early 2003 are probably the worst of the group but again that can depend on prior life treatment & type of usage.

 

As a rule I would say to be very leery of older 1150 police bikes (especially the 2002/2003 era 1150 bikes).

 

BUT!- at only $2900.00 dollars you won't have a lot invested so if the bike looks decent & rides out OK then it might be worth taking a chance on.

 

Just remember that the 1150 series BMW's can become REAL EXPENSIVE in a big hurry if they need major repairs or important parts.

 

Why is the guy or gal selling that bike? If just to get a later model then probably not a big concern-- If because it just had a service & the transmission splines are about to strip out then it could be an expensive & frustrating bike to own on your watch.

 

 

[twstm]

Hello all, I used to to lurk on this forum regularly but since I sold my RT I have been absent.

 

Here's my question...I'm looking at a 2002 R1150 RT-P that has already been converted to two up. Crash bars removed etc. 66,000 miles. Anything I need to know or look out for ? He's asking $2900

 

Morning twstm

 

With a used police bike you just never know what, or what condition, bike you will end up with. It could have been beat to death in an earlier life or might have only done light parade duty.

 

Of the 11500Rt series bikes the 2002 & early 2003 are probably the worst of the group but again that can depend on prior life treatment & type of usage.

 

As a rule I would say to be very leery of older 1150 police bikes (especially the 2002/2003 era 1150 bikes).

 

BUT!- at only $2900.00 dollars you won't have a lot invested so if the bike looks decent & rides out OK then it might be worth taking a chance on.

 

Just remember that the 1150 series BMW's can become REAL EXPENSIVE in a big hurry if they need major repairs or important parts.

 

Why is the guy or gal selling that bike? If just to get a later model then probably not a big concern-- If because it just had a service & the transmission splines are about to strip out then it could be an expensive & frustrating bike to own on your watch.

 

 

Thanks for the reply dirtrider. The seller told me on the phone that he is selling because he bought an HD Road Glide , it was easier for his passenger to mount and dismount. Is that the REAL reason...who knows. I'm heading out in about two hours to go look at it and taking my trailer with me...

I'm getting a little leery now, I just searched for 2002 problems and there seems to be more than average.

[twstm]

This bike is a 2.5 hour one way trip to go look at. I'm seriously thinking about aborting this mission!!! I keep reading about problems with 2002's

[Michaelr11]

If the bike has 66k miles and the transmission hasn't been replaced before it probably doesn't have a bad spline alignment. The splines that stripped typically did it in the 25-50k mile range.

[twstm]

This bike is a 2.5 hour one way trip to go look at. I'm seriously thinking about aborting this mission!!! I keep reading about problems with 2002's

 

Here are a couple pics

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg190/twstm/2002%20RT%20dash_zpsdbryyugq.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

[twstm]

[dirtrider]

This bike is a 2.5 hour one way trip to go look at. I'm seriously thinking about aborting this mission!!! I keep reading about problems with 2002's

 

Morning twstm

 

If you have access to a crystal ball that might take the worry out of buying a used BMW, otherwise it is a real crap shoot.

 

Even if the seller has no intentions of defrauding you there could be some underlying issues that the seller doesn't even know about.

 

If you have access to anybody in your area that is REALLY up to speed on the older BMW 1150 boxers & their inherent issues it might be in your best interest to take that person along when you look at the that bike. (even then you could still get burnt)

 

If you want a BMW 1150 bike then (usually) the later the better (like a 2004 twin spark) but a 2004 1150RT in good shape will cost you a lot more up front.

 

I can't stress enough to take a knowledgeable BMW long time owner, or BMW boxer mechanical background type person, along to help you judge that bike.

 

[Rex R]

This bike is a 2.5 hour one way trip to go look at. I'm seriously thinking about aborting this mission!!! I keep reading about problems with 2002's

 

Morning twstm

 

If you have access to a crystal ball that might take the worry out of buying a used BMW, otherwise it is a real crap shoot.

 

Even if the seller has no intentions of defrauding you there could be some underlying issues that the seller doesn't even know about.

 

If you have access to anybody in your area that is REALLY up to speed on the older BMW 1150 boxers & their inherent issues it might be in your best interest to take that person along when you look at the that bike. (even then you could still get burnt)

 

If you want a BMW 1150 bike then (usually) the later the better (like a 2004 twin spark) but a 2004 1150RT in good shape will cost you a lot more up front.

 

I can't stress enough to take a knowledgeable BMW long time owner, or BMW boxer mechanical background type person, along to help you judge that bike.

 

Not to contradict our resident guru and oracle, but be advised that even getting an 04 is not a guarantee that you won't experience the dreaded spline failure. (DAMHIK) And even the most experienced and knowledgeable BMW owner cannot diagnose the spline issue b/c there is no warning. One minute you're ok, the next, they strip on you and you are stranded.

 

The worst part is BMW never acknowledged the issue. Had they done so, they might have done the necessary investigation and research to devise a permanent repair for the affected bikes.

 

(sorry for ranting.)

Edited June 18, 2017 by Rex R

[dirtrider]

Not to contradict our resident guru and oracle, but be advised that even getting an 04 is not a guarantee that you won't experience the dreaded spline failure. (DAMHIK) And even the most experienced and knowledgeable BMW owner cannot diagnose the spline issue b/c there is no warning. One minute you're ok, the next, they strip on you and you are stranded.

 

The worst part is BMW never acknowledged the issue. Had they done so, they might have done the necessary investigation and research to devise a permanent repair for the affected bikes.

 

Afternoon Rex R

 

You are correct that it is no guarantee but a knowledgeable BMW owner, or better yet a BMW expert, can probably tell if the transmission has ever been removed (a possible red flag warning sign that the splines were repaired at an earlier time)

 

There is also a way to look for excessive clutch disk to spline movement (or a good educated guess anyway) by feeling rear wheel movement. (or at least show enough doubt to request a further investigation).

 

Even riding the bike by an experienced long time BMW 1150 rider or by an experienced BMW tec type person could uncover subtle shifting issues that could point towards a spline play investigation or at least a deal breaking doubt.

 

 

 

 

[twstm]

Look what followed me.homw! I have had 4 oilhead in the past aND this one seems solid. For $2500 how could I go wrong!

[twstm]

[Rex R]

Look what followed me.homw! I have had 4 oilhead in the past aND this one seems solid. For $2500 how could I go wrong!

 

Congratulations!!

 

I hear this breed likes it when you rub their tummies

 

[Rex R]

Not to contradict our resident guru and oracle, but be advised that even getting an 04 is not a guarantee that you won't experience the dreaded spline failure. (DAMHIK) And even the most experienced and knowledgeable BMW owner cannot diagnose the spline issue b/c there is no warning. One minute you're ok, the next, they strip on you and you are stranded.

 

The worst part is BMW never acknowledged the issue. Had they done so, they might have done the necessary investigation and research to devise a permanent repair for the affected bikes.

 

Afternoon Rex R

 

You are correct that it is no guarantee but a knowledgeable BMW owner, or better yet a BMW expert, can probably tell if the transmission has ever been removed (a possible red flag warning sign that the splines were repaired at an earlier time)

 

There is also a way to look for excessive clutch disk to spline movement (or a good educated guess anyway) by feeling rear wheel movement. (or at least show enough doubt to request a further investigation).

 

Even riding the bike by an experienced long time BMW 1150 rider or by an experienced BMW tec type person could uncover subtle shifting issues that could point towards a spline play investigation or at least a deal breaking doubt.

 

 

I stand corrected, sir.

 

The ability to determine if the tranny had ever been removed, I would not have guessed. Although, I now recall reading threads that suggest excessive rotational play measured at the rear wheel could indicate excessive spline wear. Are there any BMW specs on acceptable play? Or is it strictly based on experience?

 

Some also suggested that one might be able to visually inspect the spline for wear through the starter hole. But I believe only the portion of the splines that is not subject to wear is visible.

[dirtrider]

 

I stand corrected, sir.

 

The ability to determine if the tranny had ever been removed, I would not have guessed. Although, I now recall reading threads that suggest excessive rotational play measured at the rear wheel could indicate excessive spline wear. Are there any BMW specs on acceptable play? Or is it strictly based on experience?

 

Some also suggested that one might be able to visually inspect the spline for wear through the starter hole. But I believe only the portion of the splines that is not subject to wear is visible.

 

Evening Rex R

 

No BMW supplied or suggested specs on rear wheel rotational play.

 

You definitely can't tell how much spline wear with rear wheel rotation in gear but if done correctly & with a good bit of experience then a savvy person can get an idea if it has a lot.

 

Removing the starter then working the clutch disk in a rotational direction with the clutch lever zip tied to the bar can give a pretty good idea on spline wear. Problem is, most motorcycle sellers won't allow a prospective buyer to do that.

[Shiny Side Up]

twstm...

How Sweet It Is!!

[twstm]

twstm...

How Sweet It Is!!

 

I'm lovin' it!

[szurszewski]

That is very clean looking - especially for a $2900 ride! :)

[twstm]

Is there a different service manual for the RT-P

[Craig G.]

Looking at the picture.... what are the front tie downs attached to on the bike?

[Rex R]

Is there a different service manual for the RT-P

 

Not per se. However, there is a whole bunch of installation/operation manuals for all the "Authority" equipment (which has been stripped off of your bike, judging by the photos).

 

You might want to browse here: http://www.bmwmc.net/Gallery/Gallery.aspx for those manuals b/c whoever removed the Authority equipment may not have done a thorough job and you may one day find cut wires, connectors tucked into crevices, maybe a mounting bracket or two and wonder "what the F is this?! And more importantly, do I need it?"

[twstm]

Looking at the picture.... what are the front tie downs attached to on the bike?

 

I have soft wrap extensions on the handlebars, then the tiedowns. I put a beer can huggie to keep the tie down from rubbing.

[Rex R]

BMW recommends wrapping the straps around the front fork tubes, not the handlebars. BMW published a bulletin on the proper way to secure their bikes to a trailer back in 1999.

[AndyS]

BMW recommends wrapping the straps around the front fork tubes, not the handlebars. BMW published a bulletin on the proper way to secure their bikes to a trailer back in 1999.

 

Any links to that info. It may be useful for many here.

[twstm]

BMW recommends wrapping the straps around the front fork tubes, not the handlebars. BMW published a bulletin on the proper way to secure their bikes to a trailer back in 1999.

 

Any links to that info. It may be useful for many here.

 

+1 ^

 

I vaguely remember something like that...

[Rex R]

BMW recommends wrapping the straps around the front fork tubes, not the handlebars. BMW published a bulletin on the proper way to secure their bikes to a trailer back in 1999.

 

Any links to that info. It may be useful for many here.

 

+1 ^

 

I vaguely remember something like that...

 

I have the .pdf but don't know how to post it. If memory serves, you need to host it on another site (like dropbox) and post a link to that. But I do not have an acct.

Maybe someone else has it....??

[Craig G.]

BMW recommends wrapping the straps around the front fork tubes, not the handlebars. BMW published a bulletin on the proper way to secure their bikes to a trailer back in 1999.

 

Any links to that info. It may be useful for many here.

 

No link but I can confirm after many miles of hauling telelever BMWs that placing the soft ties around each fork tube just above the fork bridge (without capturing brake lines/ABS wire) and snugging nicely the bike travels just fine.

[ltljohn]

I found This Link and a

.

[szurszewski]

I found This Link and a

.

 

That's a great set of links for the procedure. What I would add, because I'm that guy who has a problem NOT doing things unless I know WHY I'm not supposed to do them, is why we should use the forks instead of the bars.

 

My understanding is that we are primarily trying avoid damaging the costly to replace heated grips, and also avoiding putting a lot of stress/pressure on the bolt on handlebars.

 

As above, I've had very good luck tying down to the forks - and you don't need as long of straps and don't have as much bodywork to avoid.

[twstm]

Ok, I have ridden the bike about another 100 miles and the only fault I can find is that it has the "surging" issue.