Jump to content
IGNORED

Valve adjustment question


kalali

Recommended Posts

I just did a valve adjustment myself for the first time on my 1999 R1100R. Bike has under 18K miles and according to the PO an adjustment was done at around 12K miles. I followed the instructions from multiple videos I found online, etc., and am pretty sure I didn't miss any steps. I used the yellow/white feelers from the Beemer Boneyard. The bike does run a little smoother but I can now hear louder ticking from the valves which wasn't there before the adjustment. I had to loosen some of the valves very little to bring them into spec but I have a feeling I might have been a bit over cautious and left the valves on the looser side of the spec - could slide the feelers with minimal tension, thus the louder ticking noise. I know its not possible to give a good answer without hearing the engine but is a bit of ticking noise, particularly at idle, normal or the engine should be fairly quiet when valves are properly adjusted. I'm sure none of the valves were left loose enough to allow the feelers - all four at a time, just fall off on their own weight when in place but I could slide them with little tension.

Link to comment

Afternoon kalali

 

When it comes to valve adjustments a little loose is MUCH better than a little tight.

 

If you ARE SURE that you were on the cam lobe base circle when doing your adjustments , the engine was overnight cold, & you used the correct feeler gauge thickness on the correct valves then you should be just fine.

 

If you are still worried about it then go back in & re-check it.

 

When I am talking a first timer through a BMW boxer valve adjustment I usually have them get plain old generic feeler gauge stock in the proper thickness in one size thicker & one size thinner. (then just put a 45° bend about 1" from the end)

 

When the valve is just right the one size thinner should slide in very easily & the one size thicker should be a very tight fit.

 

 

 

Link to comment

Thank you dirtrider. I decided to open the side with a slightly louder ticking noise and readjusted the clearances to make them a bit less conservatively loose and the ticking noise subsided. Given the age of the bike I will consider replacing the gaskets since they are awfully sensitive to the amount of torque - 8 nm (70 in-lb), applied. Even a minute amount of +/- in-lb. in the torque wrench causes a bit of oil to weep from the bottom.

 

Side question: Using a laser temperature gun and taking readings from exactly same points from both cylinder sides, e.g., cylinder head, exhaust mount bolt, etc., should the readings be identical or extremely close or some variations are normal? It just appears that the side with a little louder ticking noise - left side, is about 20F cooler than the one I readjusted. The measurements were taken after roughly 3 minutes with the bike idling on the centerstand. Thanks.

 

P.S. I think I'm overthinking this since this is my first time and no other bike to compare with.

Edited by kalali
Link to comment
Thank you dirtrider. I decided to open the side with a slightly louder ticking noise and readjusted the clearances to make them a bit less conservatively loose and the ticking noise subsided. Given the age of the bike I will consider replacing the gaskets since they are awfully sensitive to the amount of torque - 8 nm (70 in-lb), applied. Even a minute amount of +/- in-lb. in the torque wrench causes a bit of oil to weep from the bottom.Side question: Using a laser temperature gun and taking readings from exactly same points from both cylinder sides, e.g., cylinder head, exhaust mount bolt, etc., should the readings be identical or extremely close or some variations are normal? It just appears that the side with a little louder ticking noise is about 20F cooler than the one I readjusted. The measurements were taken after roughly 3 minutes with the bike idling on the centerstand. Thanks.

 

P.S. I think I'm overthinking this since this is my first time and no other bike to compare with.

 

 

Afternoon kalali

 

It shouldn't be that torque sensitive vs oil leaks as the valve cover bolts have stop flanges so once they contact the cyl headed any more torque will not pull them up any tighter (but too much torque can surely strip them)

 

20° difference between sides is usually not a problem & could be anything from slightly more or less fueling or slightly more or less air entering on each side. The cam lobes have take-up ramps on lift so a little variance in valve lash has little effect on cylinder temps as the "effective" valve lift point is pretty consistent.

 

My guess is that you are also not getting an accurate temperature reading due color differences & angle of the thermal sensor.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...