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Clutch parts list / thoughts (R1100RT)


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Now that my RT is running well, I've come to realize that I'm going to need to do the clutch. The adjustment was wrong, and fixing it solved the slipping in 5th, but the engagement is still at the end of the travel and I can't get off the line well without some slipping. Its got 66k on it, I've done maybe 800 on it so far.


I was really close to just paying someone to do it. I wanted to do a long weekend on it next weekend and won't get to now... and that makes me sad. But neither of the two local guys I'd trust can get it in to make my trip.


My goal is to have most of the parts on hand before I start, so I can try and power through in a single weekend.


From research, it seems like, at minimum

Clutch disk

Pressure Plate /Cover /Spring

Clutch Bolts


Tools sound like an alignment tool, trans alignment pins, some lube.

I have the giant socket. And I've watched the 2 1/2 hour Chris Harris video. And I've got a FSM and Clymer on hand.


Once I get in there, I know I may find a rear main leak and final drive leak - I understand that.


D.R.'s previous comments about clutch feel have me leaning OE vs one of the oil proof ones.


I'm debating doing clutch and throttle cables while its torn apart. I want this to be a reliable bike I can do a 1200 mile weekend on at the spur of the moment without thinking about.


Anyone else have any thoughts/insights for me, or suggested parts?




Edited by avu3
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I think the throttle cables are a good idea. I would also consider replacing the brake lines and the HES while I was sin there.


I would also consider replacing only the clutch itself. Those parts are expensive and start o add up fast. Btw, there was a change in 12/97. Make sure you get the right parts when you order.

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Morning Scott


I believe that you have a pre 12/97 1100RT (correct?)


If so that complicates the clutch install as there were some clutch changes to the 1100RT clutch parts after 12/97 & most of the pre 12/97 clutch parts are not available as individual parts for service. (unless your bike was updated at some previous time)


There was a BMW service bulletin on the early 1100 clutch replacement.


I can't post the entire service bulletin here as it is BMW proprietary. Important parts below--



All ****** & 1100 models produced from December 1997

have received a new clutch disc, manufactured by VALEO, and a

new pressure plate (see applicable part numbers below).

Earlier production for both series can be fitted with the new parts.

However, due to changes in specifications (a thicker pressure

plate, a thinner clutch disc), the new VALEO clutch disc is not

compatible with the old pressure plate. In this application, the

new clutch disc and pressure plate must be replaced as a



On earlier production examples (pre 12/97), installing the new VALEO clutch disc without

replacing the pressure plate will not allow the clutch to completely



I haven't replaced an early 1100RT clutch in a while but last one I did a couple years ago BMW offered a kit of parts (over $600.00) that contained the needed parts.


Also, on an older 1100 bike with 65K on it (personally) I would probably replace the crankshaft rear main seal(s) while I had the clutch parts removed (not rocket science but not as straight forward as it sounds) as it takes a special driver to maintain seal spacing so as to not block off the oil return system.


You also might end up finding that the clutch release bearing is worn or at least needs greasing.




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Brake lines were done at some point. I just did the HES.


My RT is a 99, so I shouldn't have to worry about the 12/97 cut off.


I will add the release bearing to the list. $50 on a $2000 (retail) job is negligible insurance.


I'm not pleased to hear rear main, but I appreciate the advice.

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Being a 1999 means you get two oil seals and two different drivers.


I love the Siebenrock basic plus disc, but I've had two 1999 bikes which required the large ID disc which Siebenrock no longer sells so we ended up going OEM and using the heavier R1150 diaphragm spring. If you choose to try it, give yourself enough time to return it and get another one.


Good Luck, take your time, take photos and bag & tag your parts and hardware.

Edited by rxcrider
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Being a 1999 means you get two oil seals and two different drivers.


I love the Siebenrock basic plus disc, but I've had two 1999 bikes which required the large ID disc which Siebenrock no longer sells so we ended up going OEM and using the heavier R1150 diaphragm spring. If you choose to try it, give yourself enough time to return it and get another one.



I have not been around long enough to know what you're referring to there.


Are you saying that the Basic Plus disc listed at BB won't fit my 99?


Or are you saying there was something better that's NLA?


Also, what's the benefit of the heavier 1150 diaphragm? More clamping force? Since I'm replacing most everything, that's an option. Why would I want to return it?



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I just did this last fall on my 98 GS at 52K miles for the same reasons. I owned the bike for a year and wanted to make it reliable for traveling and was worried about input shaft wear. I've never worked on a BMW before and I am by no means an expert. Just a guy in his garage with a good tool selection.


My $0.02, you do not want to tackle this with a deadline, self imposed or not.


I watched the CH video several times before and during the process, plus a have the Clymer and Haynes manuals. You do not need the alignment tool. I used a socket on the pushrod. I made my own guide pins by cutting the heads off long bolts and slotting the end with a dremel. I also had to buy a map gas torch to heat the locktite on the pivot pins. At risk of ruining the swing arm, I had to use an impact wrench even with heat. I could not get them off with a breaker bar. Take plenty of pictures of the routing for the wiring to the subframe. To my relief, the splines were just fine but the clutch was at minimum specs. I didn't touch the flywheel or main seal.


Cleaning the parts took most of the time. I cleaned the throttle bodies while they were off. I forced grease (BelRay Waterproof) into the swing arm bearings from the inside which was unsealed. I also greased the throwout bearing. I used Guard Dog Molly on the splines. The outside pivot pin bearing was toast so I replaced that. I am pretty methodical studying things before I take them apart trying not to break electrical connectors and cleaning parts. It was a lengthy process over several weekends working about 4 hours at each session and taking my time.


I also have a 99 GS that I acquired with a noisy transmission for which I had a used low mileage replacement. So while I had the tools out, I did it all over again back to back. It went much faster and a lot less stressful knowing the process. Cleaning parts took a lot of time and it still took longer than I thought it would. Again, the outside pivot pin bearing was toast and they are $100 each.


The PO of the 99 GS had replaced the clutch about 20K miles ago with a Siebenrock basic plus disc. The engagement is a little more abrupt than the OEM disk but nothing unusual. It had little wear (.5mm maybe) after 20K.


For some reason, some bikes come with a slightly larger input shaft on the transmission. If you happen to have the larger shaft, it appears the Siebenrock is no longer an option. I believe the Siebenrock also has a little more friction material than OEM (6.5mm vs 5.5mm) but I can't confirm that. Some guys use the 1150 spring plate for more clamping force with slightly more lever pull. I don't recall any reports of slipping with the stock 1100 spring plate.


I thought I would share my experience. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

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