Roger C Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) On my '96 R1100RT, I have what was called a "lazy neutral switch" which sometimes shows the "N" lit up, mostly does not. I cannot successfully force the light to come on. It seems to have a mind of its own (and that ain't working either). I am told this switch is attached to the rear of the transmission but I have not been able to find a switch, nor have I seen a picture of the switch. Where is it located and how do I get to it to spray clean, or does it have to be replaced? Which brings me to the 2nd question. Where is this switch listed in the BMW parts fische? Right now, my bike is down awaiting the return of my HES from GSAddict, so I have some free time if there is a disassembly involved to reach this pesky switch. Edited May 16, 2017 by Roger C Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) On my '96 R1100RT, I have what was called a "lazy neutral switch" which sometimes shows the "N" lit up, mostly does not. I cannot successfully force the light to come on. It seems to have a mind of its own (and that ain't working either). I am told this switch is attached to the rear of the transmission but I have not been able to find a switch, nor have I seen a picture of the switch. Where is it located and how do I get to it to spray clean, or does it have to be replaced? Which brings me to the 2nd question. Where is this switch listed in the BMW parts fische? Right now, my bike is down awaiting the return of my HES from GSAddict, so I have some free time if there is a disassembly involved to reach this pesky switch. Evening Roger The neutral switch is bolted under the gear position switch on rear of trans. Kind of pain to get to & no good way to clean it without removing it as the neutral switch is bolted on over it. BMW book calls the neutral switch an IDLE SWITCH, it is located around --Diagram #61_0268 in the book. Edited May 16, 2017 by dirtrider Link to comment
Roger C Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 BMW is rather "proud" of that part--$166.16 plus another $24.95 for a shaft seal. Can the switch be reached or does the drive shaft have to be removed? Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 I would forget about it as long as your bike starts with the clutch in. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 BMW is rather "proud" of that part--$166.16 plus another $24.95 for a shaft seal. Can the switch be reached or does the drive shaft have to be removed? Morning Roger The switch can be reached with the rear swing arm in place BUT actual removal is up for debate. It c-a-n be removed without moving the swing arm out of the way but depending on your strange tool assortment, manual dexterity, temperament, time of month, or position of the moon it can be a real test in patience & persistence. (book calls for swing arm removal) Most riders just don't bother until the swing arm or trans is getting removed for some other reason. If you do attempt it then a couple of points-- If you work on it from under the bike then be DARN SURE to use a ratchet strap between the front wheel & center strand for safety reasons. (it is not that difficult to knock the bike off of the center stand when working under it) I find it easier to remove the rear wheel & get that out of the way & possibly pull the inner fender back to gain some view of the working area. Link to comment
Roger C Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 BMW is rather "proud" of that part--$166.16 plus another $24.95 for a shaft seal. Can the switch be reached or does the drive shaft have to be removed? Morning Roger The switch can be reached with the rear swing arm in place BUT actual removal is up for debate. It c-a-n be removed without moving the swing arm out of the way but depending on your strange tool assortment, manual dexterity, temperament, time of month, or position of the moon it can be a real test in patience & persistence. (book calls for swing arm removal) Most riders just don't bother until the swing arm or trans is getting removed for some other reason. If you do attempt it then a couple of points-- If you work on it from under the bike then be DARN SURE to use a ratchet strap between the front wheel & center strand for safety reasons. (it is not that difficult to knock the bike off of the center stand when working under it) I find it easier to remove the rear wheel & get that out of the way & possibly pull the inner fender back to gain some view of the working area. Thanks for the quick response. What is the BMW book shop rate hours for R/R the neutral switch? Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 I would forget about it as long as your bike starts with the clutch in. Likewise. Chances are a replacement switch will not last any longer than the original one. It's easier and cheaper to learn to pull in the clutch to when starting the bike. Link to comment
Roger C Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 Yeah, I'm familiar with use of pulling the clutch to start. Been doing it since 1980. What I am trying to do is re-condition an old piece of junk to make a decent rider out of it. That way, I can recoup some of my investment when I sell it. Who out there wants to buy a fixer upper? Most want to crank it and ride. I didn't know what I was getting into. Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 If you're trying to make a few bucks off the bike, forget replacing that $160 switch. What else is wrong with it? Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Didn't we have this conversation with you back in Jan? Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now