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"It's just the normal noises in here..."


-AC-

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Bonus points for "getting" the quote in the subject.

 

Ok gang, so I'm new to the forum but not new to Boxer Twins. I had an R60/6 and a 1978 R100RS, which served me well for decades. Recently I purchased a 2000 R100RT as a more comfortable cruiser/tour-er for my lovely bride and me. I quite like it, but have some questions for someone with some time on this bike. A few words of advice would be well appreciated. Just for organizational sake, I'll list them in a stodgy fashion:

 

1. When I take off from a complete stop sometimes, but not every time, I will hear an odd mechanical noise. Sort of a "whir" but a little more mechanical than that. It lasts for under a second and never occurs when underway, just when getting rolling.

 

2. While traveling at over 60mph I can hear a low-level noise that isn't really a growl, but is close. I understand that it could be a bearing somewhere in the drive system, but I'm wondering if it's normal, just the noise of the shaft drive or the wind coming around the body work or the siping on the front tire (Michelin Pilot Sport 3). It seems to be speed specific, but not RPM specific, which makes me think it's not a bearing in the drive train. I know this is vague, but it's a vague noise, not overbearing enough to make me sure that something is awry.

 

In truth, I expected a 2000 RT to be quieter and less clunky and more "refined" than my 1978, but it seems to be more the same than different. I'm not complaining, I kind of like the tactile feel and nature of it (I like old stuff), but I was expecting a more sterile, linear, "electric" feel. I'm not disappointed that I don't have that boring feel, but I'm curious if this is the normal 2000 R1100RT experience.

 

3. I'm SURE this is an oft-discussed subject, and I'll do some searching around on the forum, but who wants to tell me where the "bang for the buck" is on waking this bike up a bit? It's not slow, but it's not quick or exhilarating either. I'm not expecting to make it run like my VTR1000F, but I'd like a little more (or a lot more) performance. So I'm guessing that ditching the 3-cat exhaust and getting a new chip is probably the starting place. Am I on the right track here, or is there more performance lurking elsewhere that I am not thinking of? I've read that pulling the CCP is like a "free" Techlusion or Power Commander, but I haven't tried it yet. What is the consensus for making the grin-factor come up a bit?

 

 

Ok, that's it for now. Thanks to all for any words of wisdom.

AC

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Evening AC-

 

 

1. When I take off from a complete stop sometimes, but not every time, I will hear an odd mechanical noise. Sort of a "whir" but a little more mechanical than that. It lasts for under a second and never occurs when underway, just when getting rolling. --That is your ABS system calibrating itself.

 

2. While traveling at over 60mph I can hear a low-level noise that isn't really a growl, but is close. I understand that it could be a bearing somewhere in the drive system, but I'm wondering if it's normal, just the noise of the shaft drive or the wind coming around the body work or the siping on the front tire (Michelin Pilot Sport 3). It seems to be speed specific, but not RPM specific, which makes me think it's not a bearing in the drive train. I know this is vague, but it's a vague noise, not overbearing enough to make me sure that something is awry. --Without hearing it ourselves only guesses-- My fist guess is tire wear & feathering. Sometimes you can't see it but can feel it by running your hand over the tire tread.

 

In truth, I expected a 2000 RT to be quieter and less clunky and more "refined" than my 1978, but it seems to be more the same than different. I'm not complaining, I kind of like the tactile feel and nature of it (I like old stuff), but I was expecting a more sterile, linear, "electric" feel. I'm not disappointed that I don't have that boring feel, but I'm curious if this is the normal 2000 R1100RT experience.--Thin wall castings, some straight cut gears, lots of internal engine chains, solid lifter cams, dry clutch, etc. Yep!, they sound like tractors

 

3. I'm SURE this is an oft-discussed subject, and I'll do some searching around on the forum, but who wants to tell me where the "bang for the buck" is on waking this bike up a bit? It's not slow, but it's not quick or exhilarating either. I'm not expecting to make it run like my VTR1000F, but I'd like a little more (or a lot more) performance. So I'm guessing that ditching the 3-cat exhaust and getting a new chip is probably the starting place. Am I on the right track here, or is there more performance lurking elsewhere that I am not thinking of? I've read that pulling the CCP is like a "free" Techlusion or Power Commander, but I haven't tried it yet. What is the consensus for making the grin-factor come up a bit? --You can get a little but getting a lot more performance from an 1100 BMW is difficult. Removing the cat & putting on a free flow muffler will make you THINK that it is faster but doesn't really do much of anything to the actual performance as the exhaust isn't the cork in the performance bottle.

Things like a Techlusion or other fueling modifiers can make it run better/smoother but won't do much for the overall 0-80's acceleration.

 

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I have a 96 RT with 113,000 one owner miles. I am not competent to answer any of your machine questions. All I know is I ride with ear plugs and I don't have any of those issues. Seriously, if I'm at a rally and ride my bike a couple hundred yards to the camping area from the check in area, I hear all sorts of things, none of which appear to be mechanical problems. Your experience may vary.

Regarding putting more zip in your bike, i've been on this board for a long time. A few have claimed that after market exhaust makes a difference. Some argue it doesn't, that it's a perceived difference. Some say that you can 're map' the electronics and make it a little quicker. I dunno bout that.

Some spend a lot on reducing weight by replacing stock parts with carbon fiber. I could do it a lot cheaper by dropping an inch of my waist and 15 lbs of unsprung weight off my gvw.

Welcome to the forum!

Edited by Red
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1) Likely your ABS doing its check if it's only once after start-up.

2) I'm betting on the Michelins. Worth paying attention to though.

2a) Oilheads are definitely clunkier than Airheads.

3) I think consensus would be to let the RT be an RT, particularly if it is not surging. I don't believe there are widely accepted performance mods to the '00 RT other than the odd low-return stuff you will find during your search (adding GS tubes, Techlusion, Remus can, etc) If it's tuned up perfectly and run above 4K, it should be peppy enough to run like a sports tourer (emphasis on tour) should.

 

That's not wisdom, just one man's view. More importantly, welcome to the sandbox!

 

 

Edited by Jake
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As for #3...

 

Crank that puppy up! (If you're not already doing so)

 

The oilheads come alive when you get into the upper rpm levels and keep it there. They have some snap when wound out.

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szurszewski
Does Tom Petty qualify for bonus points?

 

I knew that but don't know if that use is an allusion to something else...

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Ding Ding Ding! We have a Winner!

 

Yup, I know it's not a Hyabusa, nor do I expect it to be. But, without having my 78 R100RS to do a direct comparison with, I would almost say it's slightly less peppy than that 22 year older bike. The previous owner had a receipt from early April showing valve adjustment, throttle body synch, and all the basic stuff done by a reputable BMW dealership, so I'm confident it's running as it should. I just expected a little more and didn't know if there was a bunch more hiding in there, being kept under wraps by the EPA or Illinois Nazis or something.

 

The info on the ABS self-check/cal is just what I needed to learn, so that's very helpful, and it's good to know that the newer generation of Boxers are just as much a tractor as they ever were. I expected a more sterile and linear and quiet experience, but I'm not unhappy that it isn't so.

 

Thanks All!

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#3

How many times have you hot the rev limiter ?

If you had no idea there is one, that's the problem.

Use the rev limiter (just before it) as a ahift point on a few clear on ramps.

 

Also when passing or going up hills, downshift a couple gears and wind it up.

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Simple test for the tires.

 

At different speeds, lean the bike off center. Cupped tires will howl or at least sound different when leaned.

 

Oh, and one of Tom Petty's classics for sure.

 

 

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GS tubes and GS "relay" (? Don't remember which one) in the fuse box helps improve the low end acceleration and knocks a few mph off top speed (not hitting 130+ anymore, topped out about 127 mph after the mod). (Wide open back roads in Utah/Nevada are good for something). The Remus titanium reduces weight and made it wind up faster (using the butt dyno. could just be in my head though.)

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