96 R1100RSL Maintenance and other ?'s , HES, Fuel filter, Speedo cable,

[ncstatecamp]

I am planning on doing a bit of touring coming up and thought I would do a bit of maintenance and problem solving before I head out, any input on the issues listed below would be immensely helpful. Recently I've: Changed the oil, trans oil, F/D fluid, air filter, spark plugs, checked the alt belt, adjusted the valves, new clutch cable, changed oil site glass, and replaced rear brake pads. Bike has 45k.

 

1. Speedo Cable - Start off with an easy question, my speedo cable broke. The sheath looks fine so I was thinking of just replacing the internals or the whole thing with one of these, will that work?

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

Option 4

 

2. HES - Reading up on the bikes general issues I became a bit paranoid after reading about the HES issue so I decided to check out mine. It looks like I definitely need to replace the wire (few cracks near the connector to the main harness) so I am planning on following this guide except replacing the whole wire rather then fishing it through the old shielding.

Questions though for the repair

-whats the clear/white wire in the HES harness?

http://www.getwiringdiagram.com/wirimg/bmw-r1100rs-wiring-diagram-part-1.jpg

-If I do have some trouble getting the old pins out and put into the new wire any reason I couldn't use something like this to replace the old connectors?

 

3. Fuel Pump/Filter/system - Since I already had my tank Fuel Tank off I thought I would go ahead and do a fuel filter change, and replace the fuel lines. I do have a few other questions though.

Is there anything else I should do while I have the tank off and empty?

Does what size is the O ring for the fuel pump?

My bike doesnt have a quick disconnect, could I just add this http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon1.html or https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Quick-Disconnect-Couplings/dp/B000N5QIE4 even though my bike didn't have one or add an inline shut off like this?

Are these and ok clamps to use for fuel/submerged fuel lines?

 

4. Cam chain tensioner - Mine on the left side has a 17mm head which I have come to understand is the old style and doesn't keep tension/oil pressure or something and causes chain slap on start up. I've never heard any rattle or slap or anything on start up, could to wait a bit to replace or should I do it ASAP?

 

5. Oil weep - there's a bit of a oil weep on the right cylinder head, would it hurt anything to add the UV dye to my oil to find the source? It doesn't seem like a huge amount but its a pain, anything else I should look at as a source?

 

6. Windscreen Adjuster - The only thing thats truly broken/missing from the bike is the windscreen adjuster. Has anybody fabricobled an alternative handle/knob/rod?

 

Edit: added more things I've previously fixed

Edited May 8, 2017 by ncstatecamp

[ncstatecamp]

o and to add to number 3, man does the fuel level sensor lie! I had 1 bar on the fuel gauge before I removed the tank and there is over a gallon left in the tank!

[tallman]

The sensor is finicky, but there is supposed to be a reserve when the light comes on.

So, did the light come on then?

Most times riders figure out their bike wrt bars/miles

low fuel light, and actual remaining gas volume.

My RSL light came on w/about gallon instead of 1/2 gallon.

 

Assume you've done air filter.

 

Are you adding running/conspicuity lights?

Now w/tank off good time to add fuse block and wires.

Others will say tap into harness. Ok.

Personally I always added a block and left harness intact, for many reasons.

Plus future farkles can be wired to the block.

Space small, but I never had a problem.

YMMV

Edited May 8, 2017 by tallman

[dirtrider]

I am planning on doing a bit of touring coming up and thought I would do a bit of maintenance and problem solving before I head out, any input on the issues listed below would be immensely helpful. Recently I've: Changed the oil, trans oil, F/D fluid, air filter, spark plugs, checked the alt belt, adjusted the valves, new clutch cable, changed oil site glass, and replaced rear brake pads. Bike has 45k.

 

1. Speedo Cable - Start off with an easy question, my speedo cable broke. The sheath looks fine so I was thinking of just replacing the internals or the whole thing with one of these, will that work?

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

Option 4

 

2. HES - Reading up on the bikes general issues I became a bit paranoid after reading about the HES issue so I decided to check out mine. It looks like I definitely need to replace the wire (few cracks near the connector to the main harness) so I am planning on following this guide except replacing the whole wire rather then fishing it through the old shielding.

Questions though for the repair

-whats the clear/white wire in the HES harness?

http://www.getwiringdiagram.com/wirimg/bmw-r1100rs-wiring-diagram-part-1.jpg

-If I do have some trouble getting the old pins out and put into the new wire any reason I couldn't use something like this to replace the old connectors?

 

3. Fuel Pump/Filter/system - Since I already had my tank Fuel Tank off I thought I would go ahead and do a fuel filter change, and replace the fuel lines. I do have a few other questions though.

Is there anything else I should do while I have the tank off and empty?

Does what size is the O ring for the fuel pump?

My bike doesnt have a quick disconnect, could I just add this http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon1.html or https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Quick-Disconnect-Couplings/dp/B000N5QIE4 even though my bike didn't have one or add an inline shut off like this?

Are these and ok clamps to use for fuel/submerged fuel lines?

 

4. Cam chain tensioner - Mine on the left side has a 17mm head which I have come to understand is the old style and doesn't keep tension/oil pressure or something and causes chain slap on start up. I've never heard any rattle or slap or anything on start up, could to wait a bit to replace or should I do it ASAP?

 

5. Oil weep - there's a bit of a oil weep on the right cylinder head, would it hurt anything to add the UV dye to my oil to find the source? It doesn't seem like a huge amount but its a pain, anything else I should look at as a source?

 

6. Windscreen Adjuster - The only thing thats truly broken/missing from the bike is the windscreen adjuster. Has anybody fabricobled an alternative handle/knob/rod?

 

Edit: added more things I've previously fixed

 

Morning ncstatecamp

 

You have way too many different things in one post here to keep up with over a page

or two of thoughts & suggestions.

 

I will try to answer your first one in this thread-- On the speedometer cable?- You

can install just a new inner cable BUT you need to be careful of a couple of things.

Be careful on the inner cable length if you make or buy a new inner cable, or cable

kit.

 

If the new inner cable is slightly long then it will put undue pressure on the drive

system in the speedometer had & can ruin the bushing & thrust washers in the speedometer

head (so REALLY watch the completed inner cable length)

 

If the inner cable ends up too short then it can pull slightly out of the lower driven

gear & strip that gear drive socket.

 

Also, be very careful to not lubricate (over lubricate) the very top of the new cable.

If too much lube is used on the top part of the cable that can migrate into the speedometer

head & cause speed malfunctions, wildly conciliating needle or broken needle. (careful

with the application of lube)

 

 

[Alan Sykes]

Hi ncstatecamp -

Yes as Don says, loads of info required there. So I'll just chuck in my opinion about the adviseability or not of replacing the Cam Chain Tensioner with the later model with the tougher spring, all-in-one piston unit with bleed hole and which is easily identified because it has the 15mm nut on top, not the old 17mm.

 

Just do it now !

 

Eventually the cam-chain's flapping about before it hydraulics with oil a second or two after fire-up, can smash the plastic guide rail, which is a total PITA to repair. You have to either split the bare crankcase in half, or ferkle about..... ( North of England phrase ) through the piston hole inside the crankcase like the gynaecologist who redecorated his hall and staircase from outside the house through the letter-box.

[avu3]

2 - I did what you are describing with that same wire. I was not able to fish through the shielding, so I used some I had left over from a different project. I would strongly suggest you shield it in something.

 

Not sure what you mean by "clear/white wire" There's a bare wire. Its an electrical shield (cuts interference). You want to keep it. Treat it like just any other wire.

 

I was not able to un-pin the connector. I just used about 1" of the existing wire. The wire and shield were ok, so I just butt soldered (like down on the sensor end) and covered the entire thing with heat shrink. I had 3 sizes of heat shrink. Small enough for the wire. Big enough for all the wires. Big enough for all the wires + my replacement heat shield. Sorry I don't have sizes, I just picked up a kit online a long time ago with various sizes and I just used from the kit.

 

3. Just order the kit from Beemer Boneyard or EME instead of trying to piece together your own. I cross shopped and the savings were negligible. I find having quick-disconnects very helpful.

 

4. Replace it. Cheap insurance against guide failure (which is a motor out and apart kind of repair). The "kit" from Rubber Chicken Racing is fairly priced.

[ncstatecamp]

2 - I did what you are describing with that same wire. I was not able to fish through the shielding, so I used some I had left over from a different project. I would strongly suggest you shield it in something.

 

Not sure what you mean by "clear/white wire" There's a bare wire. Its an electrical shield (cuts interference). You want to keep it. Treat it like just any other wire.

 

I was not able to un-pin the connector. I just used about 1" of the existing wire. The wire and shield were ok, so I just butt soldered (like down on the sensor end) and covered the entire thing with heat shrink. I had 3 sizes of heat shrink. Small enough for the wire. Big enough for all the wires. Big enough for all the wires + my replacement heat shield. Sorry I don't have sizes, I just picked up a kit online a long time ago with various sizes and I just used from the kit.

 

3. Just order the kit from Beemer Boneyard or EME instead of trying to piece together your own. I cross shopped and the savings were negligible. I find having quick-disconnects very helpful.

 

4. Replace it. Cheap insurance against guide failure (which is a motor out and apart kind of repair). The "kit" from Rubber Chicken Racing is fairly priced.

 

Mine has cracks visible near the clip to the main harness so splicing in probably wont work very well. I was planning on wrapping the whole thing in silicone tape, as an insulator. What I was confused on clear/white white is in the harness theres a fifth wire that's not shown in the wiring diagram but does plug into the connector, is this just a bare copper stranded wire?

 

Thanks for the link to rubberhead I was trying to find the best place to order 1.

 

I already order the fuel filter and some new clamps from amazon, just need the o ring sizes now? Next time ill probably go that route, just hate paying s&h...