Electrical Issue - puzzled

[casticus]

Ok, I have read some of the previous threads on this but I am seeing somethings that I don't think line up with previous advice. Here is the situation:

 

1. Warm up bike after riding about 2-3 miles yesterday and everything was ok.

2. Change oil

3. Go to start bike and nothing happens when I turn the key. Check cut off switch on handlebar, make sure sidestand is up, make sure bike is in neutral and still nothing.

4. At this point I realize that nothing is powering up when key is turned. No head lights, no fuel pump noise, and clock has reset. When key is turned to on the clock actually shuts off.

5. Plug trickle charger into bike and it indicates battery is low and it starts charging it. I let it sit over night charging

6. This morning same results (no fuel pump no power, clock resets when key is turned on).

7. Break out voltmeter and battery is pushing out 13 volts or so (seems ok).

8. Try wiggling cable coming out of ignition switch, removed first zip tie and wiggled there, nothing. Battery was new last year and connecters look clean.

9. Rotated handlebars around and I got the idiot light's to light up, very faint dim head light but when I hit the starter button everything died. Battery still shows 12-13 volts or so.

 

I am at a loss. Not sure where to start?

[dirtrider]

Ok, I have read some of the previous threads on this but I am seeing somethings that I don't think line up with previous advice. Here is the situation:

 

1. Warm up bike after riding about 2-3 miles yesterday and everything was ok.

2. Change oil

3. Go to start bike and nothing happens when I turn the key. Check cut off switch on handlebar, make sure sidestand is up, make sure bike is in neutral and still nothing.

4. At this point I realize that nothing is powering up when key is turned. No head lights, no fuel pump noise, and clock has reset. When key is turned to on the clock actually shuts off.

5. Plug trickle charger into bike and it indicates battery is low and it starts charging it. I let it sit over night charging

6. This morning same results (no fuel pump no power, clock resets when key is turned on).

7. Break out voltmeter and battery is pushing out 13 volts or so (seems ok).

8. Try wiggling cable coming out of ignition switch, removed first zip tie and wiggled there, nothing. Battery was new last year and connecters look clean.

9. Rotated handlebars around and I got the idiot light's to light up, very faint dim head light but when I hit the starter button everything died. Battery still shows 12-13 volts or so.

 

I am at a loss. Not sure where to start?

 

Afternoon David

 

Sounds like either dead battery or poor battery cable connection.

 

What is you battery voltage WITH KEY TURNED ON?

 

What is battery voltage when you push the starter button?

 

In a lot of cases a battery trickle charger will not charge a dead battery enough to start the bike (only put a small surface charge on the battery that will look good with no load on battery but go dead when a load is put on battery)

[casticus]

That is the thing battery is putting out 12.5 volts when bike is "off". I can't get it to turn over. No power to fuel pump, etc... I tore apart the bike and tried wiggling the usual suspect wires (ignition switch cable, etc.) and got nothing. Battery connectors are solid. No obvious wiring harness wear. I am still stuck.

[Roger C]

Try jumping it from a car battery--not running. If your cycle cranks and runs you have a bad battery. If the cycle does not crank, you have a bad battery (dead cell).

Edited May 8, 2017 by Roger C

[avu3]

Its the second part of DR's question we should rule out.

 

Get a voltage while hitting the start button.

 

Batteries have both voltage and current (capacity). Its possible to have 12v but zero capacity - which you'll see when hitting the starter button (battery will drop to something low, 3v or 6v or such.)

[dirtrider]

That is the thing battery is putting out 12.5 volts when bike is "off". I can't get it to turn over. No power to fuel pump, etc... I tore apart the bike and tried wiggling the usual suspect wires (ignition switch cable, etc.) and got nothing. Battery connectors are solid. No obvious wiring harness wear. I am still stuck.

 

Morning David

 

Depending on the battery type 12.5 volts can be a pretty dead battery.

 

You still need to tell us WHAT the battery voltage is with the KEY ON????????????

 

And tell us WHAT the battery voltage is when you hit the starter button????????

 

This is still pointing towards a dead battery (static voltage measurement is not always a good indicator) so you really need to do those voltage measurements of battery voltage with a LOAD on that battery.

[Lowndes]

Casticus,

 

If you have an AGM (absorptive glass mat) type battery (sealed- no maintenance), you will need slightly different charging than a regular trickle charger, plus a desulfation cycle to maintain it in good condition.

 

Read up on it here: AGM battery info

[99RTVET]

Casticus what was the cause of your dead bike issue? I had a very similar problem this morning. The bike ran fine last time I used it. It sat for a while, but I had the AGM battery on a AGM trickle charger, and it showed a fully charged battery. With key on nothing worked (no lights anywhere). Battery voltage was good at 13.1V when bike was off. I made the mistake of not doing one thing at a time until problem stopped. I moved the kickstand back and forth a few times, checked fuses, jiggled battery cables and then it started as normal. I suspect the kick stand switch is going bad from corrosion since the battery cables are tight and recently cleaned up. Does anyone know if there is a way to test the switch?

Edited May 29, 2017 by 99RTVET

[dirtrider]

Casticus what was the cause of your dead bike issue? I had a very similar problem this morning. The bike ran fine last time I used it. It sat for a while, but I had the AGM battery on a AGM trickle charger, and it showed a fully charged battery. With key on nothing worked (no lights anywhere). Battery voltage was good at 13.1V when bike was off. I made the mistake of not doing one thing at a time until problem stopped. I moved the kickstand back and forth a few times, checked fuses, jiggled battery cables and then it started as normal. I suspect the kick stand switch is going bad from corrosion since the battery cables are tight and recently cleaned up. Does anyone know if there is a way to test the switch?

 

Afternoon 99RTVET

 

Probably the most accurate way is to wait until it won't start again then simply jump across the side stand switch connector terminals with a jumper wire (if it then starts without touching anything else you have your answer)

 

Or you can put an ohmmeter across the side switch terminals & then operate the switch to see if the resistance changes as the side stand is lowered & raised)

 

Or, with the trans in neutral & the key-on (engine not running) look at the RID on the dash as you raise & lower the side stand.

 

It sounds intermittent so if it is the side stand switch then you might not catch it until the next time it acts up.

[99RTVET]

Thank you. I will try that.