Smoking on start up

[ncstatecamp]

So I'm new to the oilhead scene, but I've learned and heard that oilheads have a few.... Quirks... I just wanted to verify what I've heard; it's standard for oilheads to burn oil (1qt?) or so every few thousand miles, and oilheads will smoke on start up just because of the nature of the horizontal engines?

 

I only ask now bc Ive recently noticed a bit of smoke on start up, but it doesn't continue after it's been ridden for a few minutes. Is that pretty standard?

 

While I've got you're attention I've also heard that the hall effect sensor needs attention on these bikes around the 70k(?) mark. The previous owner seemed to have taken care of every little thing possible, but it does only have 45k on the clock. Is there an easy way to tell if that's been taken care of already?

 

[Oldrider51]

What oilhead do you have? Knowing this forum users will be able to help. I have an 04 R1100S and it does not smoke on start up and does not burn oil. Just completed a 1400 mile trip and no oil was used.

[dirtrider]

So I'm new to the oilhead scene, but I've learned and heard that oilheads have a few.... Quirks... I just wanted to verify what I've heard; it's standard for oilheads to burn oil (1qt?) or so every few thousand miles, and oilheads will smoke on start up just because of the nature of the horizontal engines?

I only ask now bc Ive recently noticed a bit of smoke on start up, but it doesn't continue after it's been ridden for a few minutes. Is that pretty standard?

 

While I've got you're attention I've also heard that the hall effect sensor needs attention on these bikes around the 70k(?) mark. The previous owner seemed to have taken care of every little thing possible, but it does only have 45k on the clock. Is there an easy way to tell if that's been taken care of already?

 

Evening ncstatecamp

 

Some do burn a little oil between changes & some don't--It is mostly dependent on how the engine was broken in, how many miles on the engine, & some to just plain luck.

 

On the smoking after start up-- that is usually caused from oil seeping past the L/H cylinder piston rings when bike is parked on side stand. But it can also be caused by leaking valve seals, or dripping fuel injector, or fueling too rich at start-up.

 

If you suspect it is a side stand piston ring leakage problem then either park the bike on the center stand or shut the engine off with the bike standing straight up then hold it that way for about 30 seconds before leaning it over on the side stand .

 

On the HES question-- On the older 1100 bike then yes, the HES will probably have to be replaced or re-wired as the wire insulation is prone to cracking then moisture will shut the engine down in the worst possible place.

 

If you have an 1150 bike then the HES is way less prone to failures but it can still happen on a few.

[ncstatecamp]

Yeah sorry should have mentioned that, it's a 96 r1100rsl.

[ncstatecamp]

Yeah sorry should have mentioned that. It's a 96 r1100rsl.

[ncstatecamp]

Exactly what you described is what I heard for the l/h head, I usually kill the bike by putting down the side stand. I'll try killing it with the key and waiting and see how that changes start ups.

 

My bike is a 96 r1100rsl so it definitely qualifies as an older bike/model. Is there a way to see or something to look for to see if the PO already took care of/those have been replaced or upgraded?

[dirtrider]

Exactly what you described is what I heard for the l/h head, I usually kill the bike by putting down the side stand. I'll try killing it with the key and waiting and see how that changes start ups.

 

My bike is a 96 r1100rsl so it definitely qualifies as an older bike/model. Is there a way to see or something to look for to see if the PO already took care of/those have been replaced or upgraded?

 

Evening ncstatecamp

 

If it was replaced or had a quality repair then is about impossible to tell if it has been replaced or repaired.

 

If it was repaired by a butcher or taped up or has funny looking heat shrink on it then you can probably tell if you know what to look for.

 

Personally-- if that were my 1100 bike & I didn't know the history of the HES then a replacement or a quality re-wire would be at the top of my list (especially if planning a trip in wet weather)

 

If that bike is ridden in the rain then I would suggest that you stay out of the L/H lane on a high speed freeway at night until you verify the HES condition.

[justDale]

I know this started as an oil usage topic, but the HEI aspect has my attention. My 2000 R1100rt has 40K miles and the HEI and its wiring has never been touched. I'm planning a trip over Memorial day weekend down the Blur Ridge Parkway to the Dragon. Are you wise veterans recommending that I do at least a rewire of the HEI before that trip? Thanks for your help, Dale

[Roger C]

I've heard of HES failures anywhere from 29K miles to never never and everything in between. Based on the issues I've had with my '96 R1100RT, I just pulled the HES plate off and saw cracked wires near the large connector. So, I sent it to GS Addict in Canada for rewiring. My cycle has 53K on the odo and appears the bike was left outside for most of its prior life in VA. That being said, I feel I am lucky to have gotten 53K miles without HES failure. GS Addict charges $110 for rewiring, including shipment back to you. BMW's price for a new HES plate is $349 and some change. Beemerboneyard's price is less and I think they offer an aftermarket plate for less than the BMW cost.

[justDale]

Thank you for that very useful info. Roger

[avu3]

Replace the HES if you don't know its age/condition or if you do know and its original.

 

DR told me to do mine and I blew him off. My problem didn't fit the common failure pattern. My bike was owned by a purist/enthusiast.

 

Yeah. I should have just replaced it and saved myself the frustration.

 

They LOOK fine, but they crumble apart when you touch them. They dry out and crack and shorts occur between the cracks and cause the issues you see. Particularly when they get wet.

 

If you can have the bike down for a while, pull yours off and send it to GSAddict for a rebuild (or if you are inclined, rewire it yourself. It can be done, I did it). Or you can just replace it for $200 from BB or EME and not think about it again for a decade (but save your old one to be rewired or sell it on to someone who'll do it for a spare).

 

Scott

[tallman]

Exactly what you described is what I heard for the l/h head, I usually kill the bike by putting down the side stand. I'll try killing it with the key and waiting and see how that changes start ups.

 

My bike is a 96 r1100rsl so it definitely qualifies as an older bike/model. Is there a way to see or something to look for to see if the PO already took care of/those have been replaced or upgraded?

 

I had a '96 RSL.

Individual bikes vary, but, IMO, if you take it out for an Italian tune up you'll

reduce/eliminate smoke, coupled with keeping it on centerstand.

I rarely left mine on sidestand, many reasons.

If you find the rev limiters and put 100 miles or so on it a few times at

very high rev/speeds...

private roadway, of course.

If after using centerstand exclusively and running it you still smoke a lot, DR mentioned other

issues.

These bikes come alive above certain rpm's and they need to run there.

Best wishes.

Edited May 6, 2017 by tallman

[justDale]

A great big thank you to Roger and Scott. Your advice is just what I needed to get moving on this. I will attend to the HEI before my (for me) big trip. Dale

[ncstatecamp]

Italian tune-up?

 

Exactly what you described is what I heard for the l/h head, I usually kill the bike by putting down the side stand. I'll try killing it with the key and waiting and see how that changes start ups.

 

My bike is a 96 r1100rsl so it definitely qualifies as an older bike/model. Is there a way to see or something to look for to see if the PO already took care of/those have been replaced or upgraded?

 

I had a '96 RSL.

Individual bikes vary, but, IMO, if you take it out for an Italian tune up you'll

reduce/eliminate smoke, coupled with keeping it on centerstand.

I rarely left mine on sidestand, many reasons.

If you find the rev limiters and put 100 miles or so on it a few times at

very high rev/speeds...

private roadway, of course.

If after using centerstand exclusively and running it you still smoke a lot, DR mentioned other

issues.

These bikes come alive above certain rpm's and they need to run there.

Best wishes.

[tallman]

Babied ferraris, new owner would take to redline, engine brake, maintain load like hills.

For a while, hence "Italian tune up,,,"

 

Find deserted roads, run to redline/rev limiter as you progress

3-4-5, use engine braking, then run up shift, repeat.

You should know where the rev limiter kicks in anyways, just in case.

 

Now might be old wives tale, but I've seen it fix oil consumption, help smoke.

My route was about 110 miles, had hills, many miles where no traffic in forests and long open sight lines of farmland.

 

Too often these bikes are short shifted, babied, never run under load or high rpm's.

 

They like that.

 

R 259 although an S, this chart shows stock chart and how the 259 likes to run up and smile.

Here's some info on the bike

Edited May 7, 2017 by tallman

[ncstatecamp]

Ah I was kinda thinking that was what it was, just wanted to make sure.

 

Finding any roads that I can put any kind of load with besides accel is a bit difficult for me, as im located in chicago. I did just get back from a road trip that went through NC, KY, TN with some spirited jaunts, but maybe I didnt quite push it hard enough...

 

I would say I'm a short shifter, but ill try to put a stop to that.

[dirtrider]

Ah I was kinda thinking that was what it was, just wanted to make sure.

 

Finding any roads that I can put any kind of load with besides accel is a bit difficult for me, as im located in chicago. I did just get back from a road trip that went through NC, KY, TN with some spirited jaunts, but maybe I didnt quite push it hard enough...

 

I would say I'm a short shifter, but ill try to put a stop to that.

 

Afternoon ncstatecamp

 

I see in your first post here that your bike has 45,000 miles on it. If so that usually puts your engine above any additional break-in as far a piston ring to cylinder wall sealing.

 

The BMW 2-cyl boxer engine has very hard nikasil cylinder walls & once they glaze up there isn't much you can do, riding wise, to undo the glazing.

 

If it burns or uses oil at 45K then it will probably do that until it dies of old age or until the cylinders get removed & de-glazed.

 

[tallman]

Probably, but why not have some fun and hope for improvement...

[ncstatecamp]

So back to my HES question (I also started a new post but I might as well get as much coverage as possible).

 

HES - It looks like I definitely need to replace the wire (few cracks near the connector to the main harness) so I am planning on following this guide except replacing the whole wire rather then fishing it through the old shielding.

Questions though for the repair

-whats the clear/white wire in the HES harness?

http://www.getwiringdiagram.com/wirimg/bmw-r1100rs-wiring-diagram-part-1.jpg

-If I do have some trouble getting the old pins out and put into the new wire any reason I couldn't use something like this to replace the old connectors?

[farmerboy]

I have used those connectors (on another application) and they are VERY fiddly to get together! Works ok though!

 

[dirtrider]

Morning ncstatecamp]

 

 

Questions though for the repair

 

-whats the clear/white wire in the HES harness? That is the RFI shielding wire.

 

-If I do have some trouble getting the old pins out and put into the new wire any reason I couldn't use something like this to replace the old connectors? --You can, personally I prefer to use a weather pack connector & round terminals (easier to work with & used by a lot of auto companies)--Most people that can't get those terminals out just cut the wires about 1-2 inches then attach the new wires to those short wires coming from the terminals with solder & cover the repair with heat shrink tubing.

[rxcrider]

When I first got my bike I thought I had an oil consumption issue. It turned out I had a new owner issue and I was overfilling the bike. The owner's manual isn't real specific, but you need to make sure you are getting a good oil level reading:

 

- ride the bike long enough to get to full operating temperature (5 bars on the RID) so the thermostat opens for the oil cooler.

 

- when you shut the bike off, park it on the sidestand for at least 5 minutes.

 

- Put it on the center stand, again for at least 5 minutes.

 

- Then check your oil level and drain some if the sight glass is completely filled.

 

My experience has been that they blow the least amount of oil through the breather and into the air box if the oil level is kept near the center of the sight glass.

 

There is an air box drain at the left rear of the air box. This is pretty much directly above the exhaust so make sure the bike is cool when you remove the plug. It is a 1/4 turn, similar to the oil fill cap. Have a catch cup and rags in lace in case you get a bunch out of there. It came pouring out for me since I had been keeping it over filled.

 

If you already knew all this, disregard the post. If not, hopefully you get lucky like I did and find you have a bike which really doesn't burn much oil.

[ncstatecamp]

Morning ncstatecamp]

 

 

Questions though for the repair

 

-whats the clear/white wire in the HES harness? That is the RFI shielding wire.

 

-If I do have some trouble getting the old pins out and put into the new wire any reason I couldn't use something like this to replace the old connectors? --You can, personally I prefer to use a weather pack connector & round terminals (easier to work with & used by a lot of auto companies)--Most people that can't get those terminals out just cut the wires about 1-2 inches then attach the new wires to those short wires coming from the terminals with solder & cover the repair with heat shrink tubing.

 

Shield wire gotcha, since im at the stage of ordering stuff (i haven't pulled the harness loom yet), where should I expect that bit of wire to go? I see that it's plugged into the harness terminal, does it wrap around the rest of the wire or something to act as an interference shield, and does it need to get plugged back it/could I make do with a 4 pin terminal connector replacement?

 

I thought about cutting some tails and soldering, but the wire pretty close to the connector is cracked as well. though I guess I should just strip it pretty far back and jacket it pretty far up...

[dirtrider]

Morning ncstatecamp]

 

 

Questions though for the repair

 

-whats the clear/white wire in the HES harness? That is the RFI shielding wire.

 

-If I do have some trouble getting the old pins out and put into the new wire any reason I couldn't use something like this to replace the old connectors? --You can, personally I prefer to use a weather pack connector & round terminals (easier to work with & used by a lot of auto companies)--Most people that can't get those terminals out just cut the wires about 1-2 inches then attach the new wires to those short wires coming from the terminals with solder & cover the repair with heat shrink tubing.

 

Shield wire gotcha, since im at the stage of ordering stuff (i haven't pulled the harness loom yet), where should I expect that bit of wire to go? I see that it's plugged into the harness terminal, does it wrap around the rest of the wire or something to act as an interference shield, and does it need to get plugged back it/could I make do with a 4 pin terminal connector replacement?

 

I thought about cutting some tails and soldering, but the wire pretty close to the connector is cracked as well. though I guess I should just strip it pretty far back and jacket it pretty far up...

 

Evening ncstatecamp

 

Just run the RFI wire as it is when you take it apart.

 

It doesn't matter if the wire insulation is cracked up near the connector as you want to strip the insulation off all the way to the terminal pin back end. Even if it were still good the soldering would kill it anyhow .

 

Then slide a piece of heat shrink on the wire ( & down away from the soldering heat)

 

Then make your solder connection to the short bare wire, then when it cools slide the heat shrink up as close to the terminal back as you can. Then heat the heat shrink tube only near the terminal back until it starts to shrink then before it totally shrinks push it as far as you can up into the connector then heat the remainder & shrink the rest of it.