Best location to splice r1100rs accessories power for handbars?

[ncstatecamp]

I have a phone mount for my r1100rsl that has a USB connection, and I need to splice it into the aux power curcuit. I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation of the best place to splice in? Also I wanted to double check, I believe it's the red/white line and brown(?) lines yeah?

[dirtrider]

I have a phone mount for my r1100rsl that has a USB connection, and I need to splice it into the aux power curcuit. I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation of the best place to splice in? Also I wanted to double check, I believe it's the red/white line and brown(?) lines yeah?

 

Morning ncstatecamp

 

Do you want full time 12v power or just key-on 12v power?

 

Is your intended add-in USB converter fused or not fused?

[Alan Sykes]

Yes, that's an important question dirtrider. I initially chose a source of key-on 12V but decided after a major European tour to mod the phone-feed back to permanent 12V with an in-line fuse across the battery. It's handy to be able to lock the phone away in the bike overnight to charge it up for the next day's sat-nav job if you're camping in a field....

[avu3]

Hi Alan

 

Another consideration would be a portable battery pack. You could charge that on the bike during a day's running and then take it with you to camp to charge your phone over night.

 

Something like this

 

https://smile.amazon.com/Portable-Chargers-RAVPower-16750mAh-Technology/dp/B00MQSMEEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493613594&sr=8-1&keywords=ravpower+battery+pack

 

In this case it would be key on power only. I prefer this, because then you do not risk draining the bike battery with key off power. You can charge an iPhone or Samsung 3-4 times with that pack before it needs recharged.

 

Scott

[tallman]

I'm FUSE BLOCK FAN.

Direct wire, fused, to battery.

Connect accessories to it, leave wiring intact.

Or, easy enough to use a cord that uses accessory outlet to charge phone while bike is running. No battery issue.

[ncstatecamp]

The USB block is unfused. As reference this is what I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017UC20QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R0ZbzbTTW8NTY

 

I could run it to the battery with an inline fuse, but was hoping their might be a wire close I could splice to that would just fuse it through the accessories fuse.

 

Running it to the din port would be awkward as the only one on the bike is beneth the left hip area, dont want wires dangling.

 

I do have several battery packs but they're awkward to use while in transit, and I believe I actually killed one yesterday with the vibration.

 

I guess the consensus would be wire to battery with inline fuse or fuse block? Any one have a fuse block they like or recommend?

[ncstatecamp]

Also any recommendations of where/how they mounted the fuse block?

[dirtrider]

The USB block is unfused. As reference this is what I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017UC20QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R0ZbzbTTW8NTY

 

I could run it to the battery with an inline fuse, but was hoping their might be a wire close I could splice to that would just fuse it through the accessories fuse.

 

Running it to the din port would be awkward as the only one on the bike is beneth the left hip area, dont want wires dangling.

 

I do have several battery packs but they're awkward to use while in transit, and I believe I actually killed one yesterday with the vibration.

 

I guess the consensus would be wire to battery with inline fuse or fuse block? Any one have a fuse block they like or recommend?

 

Morning

 

OK, you want full time 12v to that? That might be a problem as it looks to have a full time power consumption even without a phone plugged in (at least looks that way). Not a lot but enough to run the battery down over time.

 

My suggestion is to call the company that makes that device get their take on the parasitic drain from that device it you hook it to full time 12v.

 

On the fuse block?-- That is way overkill for a single add-on item & takes up room under the seat that you don't have a lot of.

 

My personal favorite on single or even 2 add-on accessories is just a very simple waterproof fuse holder that takes the same fuse type as you motorcycle does. (easy to package, easy to install, & very clean looking)

 

If you decide to go 12v full time power there is a 2nd accessory outlet connector on that bike (should be anyhow) it has 4 wires going to it with the 12v being the red/white & is accessory fused at 15 amps. (exactly where it is I don't know)

 

[tallman]

Yes, but what BMW owner stops at adding just one farkle?

 

Do you have a tankbag?

Easy enough to run "wire" up there to phone.

Are you going to add other farkles?

 

Fuse block like CenTech, or West Marine allows additions in the

future w/out going through much fuss.

YMMV

[ncstatecamp]

Yeah I kinda thought a fuse block was overkill which is why I wanted to tie into the existing aux line, to utilize the aux fuse.

 

As for a second port, I didn't know that and I'll look around/search online for it.

 

Just curious, why do you think it has a parasitic draw?

[ncstatecamp]

No tank bag, though I was considering wiring in heating pads into the seats...

[tallman]

Extra lights like MotoLights, or PIAA's, now or down the road?

 

Heated gear?

 

Comprfessor for tires, to top off, or fix flats, yours or fellow rider?

 

DR is correct, can take up a little bit of under seat, but I've had on past 20 years bikes and found it not a dealbreaker when adding farkles.

YMMV

[dirtrider]

Yeah I kinda thought a fuse block was overkill which is why I wanted to tie into the existing aux line, to utilize the aux fuse.

 

As for a second port, I didn't know that and I'll look around/search online for it.

 

Just curious, why do you think it has a parasitic draw?

 

Evening ncstatecamp

 

Basically because it needs to take a variable input voltage of 11.5 to 14.0 volts dc (engine off accessories on to engine running & alternator charging) then output a fairly controlled 5 volts for the USB output.

 

That either takes a transformer & voltage regulation circuit or electronic voltage control & regulation circuits & both of those use a little power all the time they are hooked to input power.

 

Probably not a lot of power usage but enough to run the battery down over time.

 

The company that sells or makes that device should be able to give you the information on how much constant draw it has even when not connected to a USB device.

 

 

[Shiny Side Up]

Yes, but what BMW owner stops at adding just one farkle?

 

Do you have a tankbag?

Easy enough to run "wire" up there to phone.

Are you going to add other farkles?

 

Fuse block like CenTech, or West Marine allows additions in the

future w/out going through much fuss.

YMMV

 

[ncstatecamp]

Already got some piaa headlights, came with the bike not sure what they're wired through. Only thinking of a heated seat, and not much else in the way of farkles.

[ncstatecamp]

Gotcha, then I guess an inline switch or pull the fuse when long periods of not riding to occur, unless you know of a good switched fuse box.

[dirtrider]

Gotcha, then I guess an inline switch or pull the fuse when long periods of not riding to occur, unless you know of a good switched fuse box.

 

Afternoon ncstatecamp

 

There are a few under-seat fuse boxes that can be configured for ign-on battery direct power as well as full time battery power. If you have the under-seat real-estate to install & money to buy then not a bad approach.

 

Of you can wire up a simple battery direct (fused) power relay then trigger that relay from the side light circuit. (this is my usual install for a single accessory or 2 accessories that need the same ign-on control.

 

Or, as you say, just install a simple switch or a small 150 terminal connector then disconnect for longer bike down times.