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'09 RT, Two Minor Issues


Boxtop

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About 25% of time, bike won't crank in 1st with kickstand up. If I put in neutral, it always starts, and when I immediately put it back in 1st, it never dies. This makes me think balky clutch switch and not a kickstand switch issue. Issue does not seem to be getting worse.

 

About half the time, LCD display indicates headlamp out when both are fine. This problem appeared when I replaced both low beam headlamps a couple thousand miles ago.

 

Any troubleshooting pointers appreciated.

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About 25% of time, bike won't crank in 1st with kickstand up. If I put in neutral, it always starts, and when I immediately put it back in 1st, it never dies. This makes me think balky clutch switch and not a kickstand switch issue. Issue does not seem to be getting worse.

 

About half the time, LCD display indicates headlamp out when both are fine. This problem appeared when I replaced both low beam headlamps a couple thousand miles ago.

 

Any troubleshooting pointers appreciated.

 

Morning Boxtop

 

It could be either a side stand switch or the clutch switch. There were some issues on the 1200RT side stand switches with the checksum (implausible signal from the side stand switch) but that is usually as start stall or crank but no start. --(there is a BMW service bulletin on this)

 

A bad clutch switch issue usually gives a no-crank when in gear.

 

Two things that you can try-- next time it won't crank, try lightly (very lightly) pushing forward on the clutch lever then see if it will crank .

Or try running a cruise control function test-- (if you want to try that let me know & I will post up the test procedure) this test includes a clutch switch input test.

 

On the light-out warning light-- usually the place to start is to go back to what you did just before the warning light came on (that was to install new headlight bulbs)-- Were those just standard H-7 bulbs or something special? Maybe try some different brand bulbs to see if the current draw on new bulbs will keep the light out.

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DR,

 

The bike reliably quits whenever shifted into gear with the kickstand down. It has never quit when shifted into gear with the kickstand up. I figured these circumstances pretty well eliminated the kickstand switch from suspicion. I guess it's not so straightforward.

 

If cruise control function test is a good way to also test clutch switch function, please do post it up. Cruise control has never skipped a beat on the road, but I always tap the brake to shut it off. I never shift gears or pull in clutch with cruise control engaged.

 

Ikraus,

 

Is parking lamp function monitored on an '09? I ask, because I've had burned out parking lamps before with no dash indication. The parking lamps and turn signal lamps are all good, but I did put in LED parking lamps at the same time I replaced the headlamps with conventional H7's. Perhaps the LED parking lamps are the issue?

 

Thank you both.

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DR,

 

The bike reliably quits whenever shifted into gear with the kickstand down. It has never quit when shifted into gear with the kickstand up. I figured these circumstances pretty well eliminated the kickstand switch from suspicion. I guess it's not so straightforward.

 

If cruise control function test is a good way to also test clutch switch function, please do post it up. Cruise control has never skipped a beat on the road, but I always tap the brake to shut it off. I never shift gears or pull in clutch with cruise control engaged.

 

Afternoon Boxtop

 

There is a 3rd wire running back to the computer from the side stand switch that is more or less a circuit verification.

 

For cruse control test-- Print it out & take it with you to the bike.

 

Pay attention to #7 on the list.

 

1. With the ignition switch OFF, switch on the cruise control.

 

2. Press and hold the SET button to the SET position and switch on the Ignition switch (SET LIGHT comes on)

 

3. Release the SET button (LIGHT GOES OFF), move to RESET (Resume) position (LIGHT ON)

 

4. Release the button (LIGHT OFF)

 

4a Switch OFF the cruise control switch (LIGHT ON)

 

5. Switch the cruise control switch back on (LIGHT OFF)

 

6. Close throttle. (LIGHT), release throttle. (LIGHT OFF)

 

7. Pull clutch lever (LIGHT), release clutch lever (LIGHT OFF)

 

8. Pull front brake lever (LIGHT), release lever (LIGHT OFF)

 

9. Push foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON), hold for 5 seconds (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF), release foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON)

 

10. Rotate rear wheel (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF/ON)

 

 

11. Switch off ignition.

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Your owner's manual, somewhere around page 29, will say something like this:

Front bulb defective

Lamp symbol with arrow

pointing to the front is displayed.

Possible cause:

Low-beam headlight, high-beam

headlight, parking light or turn

signal bulb defective.

 

I had some cheap LED parking bulbs for a while that occasionally generated the bulb out warning. They did not always light, and sometimes they also sort of sputtered and flickered a bit. I liked the color match to my HID low beams, but got tired of the nonsense and went back to the incandescent 194 bulbs. They look a little yellowish in comparison, but I can't see them from the seat, and the warnings have stopped.

 

The ZFE can shut down a circuit for too much current (like a fuse would) and also for too little current. The reduced draw of the LEDs may well be on the edge of the lower limit.

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Rats. I liked the LED parking lights; they were cheap, and I figured they'd last forever. Wonder why I never got a bulb-out indication when the original incandescent bulbs burned out?

 

Thanks everyone. Still gotta see if I can isolate the sporadic failure to crank in gear issue to the clutch switch.

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