Throttle body sync r1100rt post 1997

[Robert Mayrand]

I've seen numerous document showing clearly how to do the sync on rt prior to '97, but none of the later model with the throttle box. Sometime the document just warn us that the sync on those later model is different and refer us to the manual. Can someone point me to a document wich explains it for my model, or just tell me what to do differently. It is my understanding that on prior model, the throttle was linked directly to the left throttle body, that was then conected to the right, so the 3000rpm adjustment was done with on the right one. With the later model the throttle is connected to a throttle box, that act as a why, and connects to both right and left throttle body, should the adjustment be perform with both throttle body in this case? I guess not, but if so I wonder why everyone is telling that both model are adjusted differently?

 

Thanks for your help.

Rob

 

[dirtrider]

I've seen numerous document showing clearly how to do the sync on rt prior to '97, but none of the later model with the throttle box. Sometime the document just warn us that the sync on those later model is different and refer us to the manual. Can someone point me to a document wich explains it for my model, or just tell me what to do differently. It is my understanding that on prior model, the throttle was linked directly to the left throttle body, that was then conected to the right, so the 3000rpm adjustment was done with on the right one. With the later model the throttle is connected to a throttle box, that act as a why, and connects to both right and left throttle body, should the adjustment be perform with both throttle body in this case? I guess not, but if so I wonder why everyone is telling that both model are adjusted differently?

 

Thanks for your help.

Rob

 

Morning Rob

 

The single cable systems are in a place of their own & not all on-line info on doing the single cable systems is correct.

 

On the later boden box systems they are MUCH EASIER as you can basically adjust either side. I usually do the side that gives me the adjustment direction & cable slack that I need. (ie, if you need to back an adjuster furrel OUT to get the balance that you want then adjust on the side with the loosest cable-- or if you need to turn an adjuster furrel IN then adjust on the side with the tightest cable.

 

The BIG secret on the boden box systems is TO BE DARN SURE that you have cable slack on both sides before starting the balance operation (on the later bikes there is usually a main cable adjuster under a rubber boot up by the twist grip that will allow more slack on both side equally.

 

Added: when the TB balance is complete-- and with the engine not running make sure to check that BOTH SIDE TB cams lift of their idle stop screws at the exact same time & that both side TB cams hit the wide open stops at the exact same time. (this is a good double check that all is good with the cable adjustments)

 

Edited April 24, 2017 by dirtrider

[dougied]

Hi dirtrider been a while bud ! I,ve just adjusted my valves and synced my RT1150 2004 using a morgan carbtune 4 pot. Now last year when i never had it i actually used a home made manometer which seemed fine.However when i used the Carbtune the readings were way out. The reason i was doing it initially was because i was finding vibration on my throttle grip at 40mph and again at 90 which i never before and its still there lol.... now im stuck and not sure which is best to go by manometer of carbtune or even buy a twinmax? Any advice please ?

[dirtrider]

Hi dirtrider been a while bud ! I,ve just adjusted my valves and synced my RT1150 2004 using a morgan carbtune 4 pot. Now last year when i never had it i actually used a home made manometer which seemed fine.However when i used the Carbtune the readings were way out. The reason i was doing it initially was because i was finding vibration on my throttle grip at 40mph and again at 90 which i never before and its still there lol.... now im stuck and not sure which is best to go by manometer of carbtune or even buy a twinmax? Any advice please ?

 

Morning Dougie

 

The most accurate thing going (for the BMW boxer anyhow) is the simple "U" tube manometer. There is nothing on the manometer to get of adjustment, or need calibrating. They are dead accurate no matter what as long as the input hoses are not leaking.

 

In any case, no matter WHAT you use, if you are worried about accuracy then hook both input hoses to one side TB using a vacuum tee. Then start the engine & read the device.

 

Whatever you are using MUST read the EXACT same for both sides when hooked to one input. If it doesn't then never trust that device to be accurate.

[tallman]

My experience the Carb Tune and manometers are very close.

We used to do Tech Days

Don't hear of them any more.

 

 

At those, hosts often set up manometers.

Then we'd CarbTune, or vice versa.

Usually very close.

My preference for the CarbTune based on size, portability, no fluids.

Rarely did we find CarbTune way off when followed my manometer.

 

Twin Max, different story.

We had TD's where all 3 got used and for me,

Twin Max makes no sense, way off frequently.

YMMV