gary novak Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 After a good power wash on my R850R I left my friends house to go home but never made it. Appx 7 miles down the road every thing quit. I trailed the bike home and found nothing WET. I have no spark. The gas is OK. I had it running for 10 seconds 2 or 3 times then nothing? HELP.... Link to comment
eddd Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 HES, Hall effect sensor. Lots of info to follow. Very common problem on bikes of your vintage. The wiring to the sensor deteriorates and is then susceptible to water intrusion. Someone will likely provide some links to a few of the MANY posts/threads on this problem. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 After a good power wash on my R850R I left my friends house to go home but never made it. Appx 7 miles down the road every thing quit. I trailed the bike home and found nothing WET. I have no spark. The gas is OK. I had it running for 10 seconds 2 or 3 times then nothing? HELP.... Evening Gary As Eddd mentioned it does sort of point to the HES sensor (actually the HES wires). What is your tac doing while you are cranking the engine? If it is the HES then either a new one or repairing yours with new high temperature wire is the repair. You m-i-g-h-t be able to get it started by removing the belt cover (Not easy on the 850 engine) then using a hair drier & totally drying the wire pig tail (marked in picture with red arrows). The wire pig tail internal wires usually degrades in the lower area inside the outer covering) If by chance that does get it started then for sure you will need a new HES or at least re-wiring yours as next time you get it wet it will quit again. Link to comment
eddd Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 This pictue was from my R1100RT. It was running fine when I decided to replace the wiring before this well-known issue caused a problem. The second picture is also from an R1100RT that was running up until it was washed with regular municipal water pressure. The process of opening the sheath caused the insulation to crumble and fall off. Link to comment
eddd Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 If your problem turns out to be the HES here is a link that explains more. Link to comment
SoCalBmr Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 I think the take-away on this is, don't powerwash, or even squirt with a hose, your bike. Link to comment
avu3 Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 I think the take-away on this is, don't powerwash, or even squirt with a hose, your bike. While generally that's my approach, I can see why some folks find it useful. However, in the case of deteriorated HES wire, its kind of like saying "don't go to the doctor". The disease is there and one day will render the bike disabled. You can proactively address it or wait on it and get stranded... Link to comment
AndyS Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 I think the take-away on this is,....squirt with a hose Can't agree with you on the second part of your thread. When you are travelling at 70mph on a rain drenched Motorway, the water in and around that HES unit is pretty intense. If the unit fails at home with a hose played over it, the repair is annoying. If however you are out in the middle of nowhere and the HES lets go then you will be in a very different mind set. My bike gets liberally doused at home for this reason alone! Link to comment
gary novak Posted April 19, 2017 Author Share Posted April 19, 2017 Thank you all for helping with this problem. I have a few questions if you don't mind! 1. The tack does nothing as I turn the ignition on and turn over the motor. 2. Can I get to the wire if I remove the alternator cover plate to make a repair. 3.Rookie question....Is the HES sensor differ from the hall sensor...if so where is it located on the motor. BTW...My r850r has 118,540 miles on it with no major problems. I do my own "fixing" but this is kinda heavy Stuff. Thank You all so much.. Probably more questions coming...Thanks Again Link to comment
dirtrider Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 (edited) Afternoon Gary 1. The tack does nothing as I turn the ignition on and turn over the motor.-- that usually means the fueling computer isn't getting a (usable) signal from the HES 2. Can I get to the wire if I remove the alternator cover plate to make a repair.--sort of, after removing the belt cover then you have to remove the belt, remove the lower pulley, then mark the HES position (so you can put it back where it was), then remove the HES from the bike to make the repair. 3.Rookie question....Is the HES sensor differ from the hall sensor...if so where is it located on the motor. --The HES is the Hall Effect Sensor. It is located behind the front lower belt pulley. Edited April 19, 2017 by dirtrider Link to comment
eddd Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 Thank you all for helping with this problem. I have a few questions if you don't mind! 1. The tack does nothing as I turn the ignition on and turn over the motor. 2. Can I get to the wire if I remove the alternator cover plate to make a repair. 3.Rookie question....Is the HES sensor differ from the hall sensor...if so where is it located on the motor. BTW...My r850r has 118,540 miles on it with no major problems. I do my own "fixing" but this is kinda heavy Stuff. Thank You all so much.. Probably more questions coming...Thanks Again Where are you located? There might be someone in your area that could help you with the repair. Replacing entire unit with a new one is pretty straight. I would not consider it beyond the skill of a decent do-it-yourselfer. Replacing the wire only adds a little more complexity. Link to comment
Lowndes Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Gary, The HES on my (new to me) '99 R1100RT quit about a mile from my house last Sunday afternoon, just after a relatively gentle hose wash. Sitting at a stoplight, heavy 6 lane traffic, just stopped like I hit the kill switch. But I knew what to look for because I read about it here (and other forums, too)!! GSAddict rewires these for $110 with special heat resistant wire and returns them to you. His contact info is arbcon@sunshinecoast.ca I sent mine USPS First Class for $15. Don't use UP$ to Canada. On an R1100RT it is a little more difficult to remove the HES. You have to remove the tupperware and then slide the tank back to get to the main connector inside the open bottom boot in my hand. This boot is between the top of the alt and the gas tank. The problem: The sensors were good, just like Dirt Rider said: Link to comment
Michaelr11 Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 And as the earlier photos in this thread show - the "problem" also appears underneath the outer sheath behind the HES plate where the pigtail of the sensors is crimped to the bad wiring harness that goes to the connector. I will also give a plug to GSAddict and the wiring repair that he does. He rewired mine and a friends. Link to comment
gary novak Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 Hello everybody....hope all is well. I have good news and bad news....which one do you want. let's start with the good news. IT runs, finally.I go into the garage every morning and turn the key. IT FIRED OFF. Music to my ears.A strong music. Yahoo,back on the road again! I'm thinking the wires were wet and it took 7 days to dry them out. No more power washing ever again. Now the bad news. I was unloading a truck and somehow I managed to tear the biceps and tendons in my right arm....Surgery will be required and therapy after that.I'm NOT happy, but life goes on. I cannot thank you enough for all the support and information you all shared with. I even got a offer to help repair my bike in person. That is so cool...really Thank you again Gary Link to comment
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