Changing the clutch switch

[Dann]

Looks like my clutch switch is defective and will need to be replaced.

 

I got the following error code from the GS-911:

10104 Clutch Switch faulty

The fault is not present now.

 

The bike will not start in first gear with the clutch pulled in and my cruise control stopped working.

 

The GS-911 reports the switch as working properly but the real time data shows the cruise control button to be in the "off" position even when it's pushed in the "on" position and the red light is on.

 

(Because the ECU/ZFE disables the CC if the switch is malfunctioning)

 

Anybody has ever done this?

Anything special that I should be aware of?

 

 

[WestyLancs]

Hi Dann, not a direct answer to your question, but just wondering if you've tried the cruise control check that DR published a few months ago.

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=960256&Searchpage=1&Main=87334&Words=cruise+control+&Search=true#Post960256

 

I appreciate the GS has given one fault, but before taking things apart, this may confirm, or confuse the issue.

 

[BMW_Ken]

I had to replace the switch on my 2011 RT a couple of years ago for the same reason as you. Don't remember having any problems.

[dirtrider]

Looks like my clutch switch is defective and will need to be replaced.

 

I got the following error code from the GS-911:

10104 Clutch Switch faulty

The fault is not present now.

 

The bike will not start in first gear with the clutch pulled in and my cruise control stopped working.

 

The GS-911 reports the switch as working properly but the real time data shows the cruise control button to be in the "off" position even when it's pushed in the "on" position and the red light is on.

 

(Because the ECU/ZFE disables the CC if the switch is malfunctioning)

 

Anybody has ever done this?

Anything special that I should be aware of?

 

 

Afternoon Daniel

 

Well-- the easy way or the hard way?

 

There are two screws on the bottom of the L/H handlebar switch pod--remove those 2 screws then the lower little plastic cover will come off.

 

That exposes the switch-- there is a screw holding the switch on so just remove that & the switch will come off.

 

Now the hard part-- the switch is connected under the fuel tank so usually the fuel tank has to be removed so the Tupperware needs to be removed first.

 

Easy way (somewhat easy anyhow)-- some cut the old clutch switch wires then spice the new clutch switch wires to the exposed old cut wires. (personally I do it right & dig in to plug the new switch into the harness connector correctly)

 

BUT!-- before doing all the above make sure the switch actually isn't working-- sometimes you can just bend the little metal lever on the switch so it then works correctly.

[dirtrider]

I had to replace the switch on my 2011 RT a couple of years ago for the same reason as you. Don't remember having any problems.

 

Afternoon Ken

 

I think that your 2011 is different (I know the switch is different) as the connector (I think) doesn't need the fuel tank removed to access the connector (I believe just the L/H upper Tupperware has to be removed).

[Dann]

I feel a little stupid now...

 

Cleaning it did solve the problem. No need to replace it.

The reason nothing would work after cleaning it was that because I was working on it on the center stand, I didn't notice that my side stand was out. After retracting it everything was back to normal