Another Brake failure thread - '06 GS

[NickInSac]

Hi all,

 

Short version - I am looking for a factory wiring diagram from the battery to the ABS servo and the idle circuit. I am hopeful my battery connection is heavily corroded and this is my ABS and idle circuit problem.

 

There is a fat red, a large red, a medium red and small red wire going to the battery. I tried soldering the wires but the solder doesn't take. I got them really hot too with my 140 watt soldering gun.

 

BACKGROUND

So I got a new to me GS with 94k miles on it. I checked it with my GS-911. All I found was many of the circuits had stored faults of low voltage. I rode it home for 20 miles no problems.

 

I wasn't able to get to the bike in a few days. I was hoping to ride it and found a dead battery. OK no worries.

 

Got a Odyssey PC 535. Did the mods to the battery to make it fit and did some bending with the existing harness. I noticed the positive harness is very corroded. Cleaned up connections. Started it up and fast flashing ABS warning and it wouldn't hold an idle.

 

I noticed the ABS servo is not "whining" or "whizzing" going through the check when I go with the key on as my '06 RT does.

 

I didn't check codes yet. Since the positive battery was so corroded, from what I can tell, on the brass connector to the red wire cable leads. There was some brittle green plastic around the brass connection to the cable leads or a LOT of battery corrosion. I am wondering if this green plastic is factory...?

 

hopeful CONCLUSION

I am in the middle of making the brass connector and all the wires reconnect to the battery and am hopeful this is my problem. But, sadly, I doubt it.

 

I suspect the ABS servo brushes are stuck. I anticipate I will try and find that youtube or instructions on getting to the brushes and cleaning those.

With the idle circuit, I had this problem as a short on the EGR on my '06 RT. This short had the computer shutdown the heating elements on the O2 sensors and the idle stepper motors. Hence, the '06 RT didn't idle that was at 96k miles on the RT. The RT now has 115k.

 

Thank you in advance!

Edited March 30, 2017 by NickInSac

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Nick

 

I am looking for a factory wiring diagram from the battery to the ABS servo and the idle circuit. I am hopeful my battery connection is heavily corroded and this is my ABS and idle circuit problem.---I have the BMW wire diagrams but they are not in a form that is easy to send. The wire diagrams are on many separate pages that are not linked.

 

Keep in mind that your ABS gets it's main 12v B+ power from the big stud on the back of alternator with engine running -- there is also a low current 12v input directly from the ign switch.

 

There is a fat red, a large red, a medium red and small red wire going to the battery. I tried soldering the wires but the solder doesn't take. I got them really hot too with my 140 watt soldering gun.---Those need to be cleaned up or cut back until you have clean copper that makes a good connection (either soldered or a good quality crimp connection)

 

So I got a new to me GS with 94k miles on it. I checked it with my GS-911. All I found was many of the circuits had stored faults of low voltage. I rode it home for 20 miles no problems.-- You will get a LOT of low voltage codes shown if the bike has a dead or bad battery. You need to get a good fully charged battery in that bike then clear the codes, then see what ones come back.

 

I wasn't able to get to the bike in a few days. I was hoping to ride it and found a dead battery. OK no worries.

 

Got a Odyssey PC 535. Did the mods to it to make it fit and did some bending with the existing harness. I noticed the positive harness is very corroded. Cleaned up connections. Started it up and fast flashing ABS warning and it wouldn't hold an idle. --- You probably need to do a new TPS relearn (it in you riders manual under battery replace)

 

I noticed the ABS servo is not "whining" or "whizzing" going through the check when I go with the key on as my '06 RT does.

 

I didn't check codes yet. Since the positive battery was so corroded from what I can tell on the brass connector to the cable leads. There was some brittle green plastic or a LOT of battery corrosion. I am wondering if this green plastic is factory...?

 

hopeful CONCLUSION

I am in the middle of making the brass connector and all the wires reconnect to the battery and am hopeful this is my problem. But, sadly, I doubt it.

 

I suspect the ABS servo brushes are stuck. I anticipate I will try and find that youtube or instructions on getting to the brushes and cleaning those. --probably not as the sticking brushes are more of a problem on the later (I-ABS gen II brakes not on your servo brakes) --your issue (IF) it is a controller failure would more likely be a bad internal pressure sensor.

 

[NickInSac]

As always, THANK YOU DR!

 

Ugh, I hope it's not a sensor on the ABS pump.

[NickInSac]

SUCCESS!

 

It was something stupid. After rebuilding the positive terminal and reconnecting it I found the old battery's hard positive cover was stuck in the rear brake switch/sensor.

 

Yay!!

[dirtrider]

SUCCESS!

 

It was something stupid. After rebuilding the positive terminal and reconnecting it I found the old battery's hard positive cover was stuck in the rear brake switch/sensor.

 

Yay!!

 

Morning NickInSac

 

That is an easy repair. Glad it was that simple.