Copper Canyon Ride Tale

[David]

Just got back late last night from really a perfect trip. Company, scenery, weather. Having worked hard for the last six months or so, it was just what I needed. No computer, virtually no phone/email, no pressure.

 

Before going further, I need to apologize for these pictures. I left my good camera behind because I wanted a really simple trip. These were all taken with a borrowed point-and-shoot which I set wrong. Argh.

 

The trip started with 1,000 miles of driving to somewhere in Texas. Todd insisted he was closing to running out of diesel. I told him to trust me. That turned out to be bad advice. Then of course these things require about 5 gallons to restart, and so the $12 1-gallon cans they hosed us for hurt.

 

[David]

Here we are crossing the border into Ojinaga, after another 250 drive. We left the vehicles at a little hotel across the street from the border patrol, thinking that would be safe. Unlike last year, the border crossing went really well. That's Rick Mathis and Will Hawkins at the window in black. And then our four bikes lined up: Todd Gill's F650GS; Kenny Haynes' KLR650; Mark Davis' R1200GS; and my R1200GS.

 

 

After crossing the border, we rode across the desert, through Chihuahua, and then starting looking for a hotel. After four tries, all we found was this illicit place that rented by the hour. Obviously there was only one bed in each room, and they insisted (until a little negotiation) on us leaving after six hours. The TV choices were "interesting" but it was fine. Mark felt compelled to sleep in his clothes, fearing the right light would reveal a lot of things that he didn't want to touch.

 

 

That was the end of day 2, and now we're deep into Mexico and read for adventure.

[David]

On the third day, we left at 6a, just before sunrise. It was a full day, but a cold way to start it. We stopped at the only place to eat that we could find, near Cuahtemoc. It was closed, but we went around back and asked them to fix us breakfast, which they did.

 

 

The views were beautiful as we wound our way west on really fun roads.

 

 

We were on our way to Basaseachi Falls, an amazing place, even though the water was low.

 

 

 

 

From there we tackled an easy, 60 miles on the dirt to San Juanita. The plan, set in motion a year ago, was for all us to meet for dinner in Creel that night. All 20 of us made it, and here's the group shot. People came from as far away as San Francisco, Colorado, Ohio, and New Jersey.

 

[David]

Here are 20 bikes the next morning, from the overweight R1200GS pigs to lots of KLRs, some DRZs, and a mint, new Ducati.

 

 

Marty Mayer got up early to replace the counter-sprocket on his 1992 kickstart something or other.

 

 

We headed out on the luscious 45 miles route on pavement to our last fuel stop, where we would also air down our tires for the 40 miles of winding, single-lane "road" to Batopilas. Here are some views from the descent.

 

 

 

 

See that thin road way down below? That's where we're headed.

 

 

Every once in awhile, we'd pause and take pictures of each other. Here's Kenny (the little blue dot) across the canyon.

 

 

And here's a closer view of the same shot after Todd caught up with Kenny.

 

 

We made it to Batopilas late that afternoon, and here's the toasting to celebrate.

 

 

This is a boy crossing a bridge off the patio where we stayed. Todd went down when the front hit a rock, and messed up his ankle pretty bad. So we rounded up some ice and made it relax. It bothered him the rest of the trip, but each day was better.

 

 

Here are some kids playing nearby.

 

 

 

Here's the plaza in this little town of 1,300 people. The height of relaxation for me that night was lying on my back in the cool breeze looking at the stars.

 

 

There are no "restaurants" in this village at the end of the road, but several homes are set up to accommodate out of towners. The town was 1 km across, and so the lady of the house (Reina) picked us up in her SUV. We didn't all fit, though, so her 11-year old daughter gave me a ride. No so much ATGATT, obviously, but it was a hoot to be driven quickly across town, three of us aboard the thing.

 

 

Here are our two drivers--they thought it would be fun to switch off halfway.

 

 

 

The dinner was really delicious. The chicken sauce was made with 8 different chili sauces and chocolate. We also had fries and fresh-squeezed lemonade.

 

 

Here's the little girl enjoying some candy.

 

 

And here's Mark taking his turn on the ATV, but this time with 4 aboard. It sure if refreshing to be with people free to "live" in their own environment.

 

[David]

The next morning we headed back to Creel. Here's Todd.

 

 

And Kenny.

 

 

And Rick.

 

 

And Will. Both he and Rick were on KTM 950 Adventure bikes.

 

 

Here's a water break at La Bufa. Will is in white. Mark is in yellow. Kenny is in black. Todd is in blue.

 

[David]

The next morning Todd told us his ankle was up for the rest of the adventure (he's a good liar), and so we decided to take two days to circle back south through Hidalgo de Parral and Jimenez. I was too busy riding to get pictures, but the route into Parral was one of the most amazing roads/views I've ever been on. It was a magical moment, even though it was punctuated by the federales going through all of our bikes while we watched. It was full of high-speed sweepers at altitudes as high as 8,650 ft. as we slowly dropped to the Rio Grande.

 

At lunch we discovered that I had a flat tire, so I slinked off and fixed that while the rest of the crew went to Sinforosa (sp?) to view the canyons. Here are some pictures Mark took. Here, left to right, is Rick, Will, and Kenny.

 

 

 

If you haven't been to the Copper Canyon, you need to go now before the roads are paved and the tourists overrun the place. It's better than the Grand Canyon in every way, and you can touch it rather than just look at it.

 

 

 

I'd like to offer a heartfelt thank you for wonderful travel companions. I haven't laughed that much in a long time, and it was a great trip I'll never forget.

[Francois_Dumas]

WOW..... and more WOW ! Awesome pictures D. !

[Marty Hill]

Looks fantastic. I'd like to try it...on a mule.

[BFish]

sounds/looks like an epic trip. glad you all had fun and made it home safe.

[Lone_RT_rider]

Looks fantastic. I'd like to try it...on a mule.

 

Don't you already ride a GS?

 

Shawn

[Limecreek]

What a fantastic trip David. I can only hope that I too will experience a trip like the one you just completed. Perhaps there will be time next year.

 

May your vacation hangover last at least a week.

 

The pictures of the children were my favorites. I'll bet they thought you guys looked like you drop in from Mars with all the gear, bikes and gadgets.

 

Great story and photos...thx for sharing.

[Mike O]

One of these days, I'll attempt this trip. What great scenary.

 

David, I always enjoy a 'home-cooked' meal over a restaraunt, but I'm curious. What did you do for your other meals (did she host for breakfast and lunch as well?)

 

Regards,

 

Mike O

[stu650]

Awesome ride - what an adventure

 

 

Thanks for posting the ride tale and photos

[David]

Looks fantastic. I'd like to try it...on a mule.

 

Marty, you should have seen Boney on your old GS. He was tearin' up the place. I think he rode the farthest, too, all the way from San Fran.

[David]

The pictures of the children were my favorites. I'll bet they thought you guys looked like you drop in from Mars with all the gear, bikes and gadgets.

 

Well, they did think we were from Mars, but it had more to do with Mark than our gadgets. He's 6'6" with red hair, and I suspect they thought they'd been invaded. People would stare at him non-stop.

 

We kidded that the drums we were beating in the mountains were an ancient ritual heralding the tall, red ancient God.

[David]

David, I always enjoy a 'home-cooked' meal over a restaraunt, but I'm curious. What did you do for your other meals (did she host for breakfast and lunch as well?)

 

We usually had breakfast/dinner every day, and just stopped at a picturesque place and ate beef jerky and fruit for lunch. In this case, we had breakfast at a different "home restaurant" the next morning.

[big-t]

Todd insisted he was closing to running out of diesel. I told him to trust me. That turned out to be bad advice.

 

 

AS much as I would like to let him take all the blame.. ... To be fair I had the opportunity to stop at several stations and passed them up.

 

Things turned out all right,while David and Kenny were searching for fuel Mark and I were turning down offers of help from the lovely Texas ladies that were passing by.Something about the tall red haired gringo seems to attract females.

 

 

 

Hmmmm No cow pics !!!I'll fix that.

 

 

 

 

The Boss,taking a pic.

 

 

 

 

 

There were about 25 kids behind this wall,everytime I tryed to take a pic they all ducked,I finally caught a few.

 

 

 

 

 

Sinforasa Canyon thru the trees

 

 

 

 

 

Late evening in Batoplis

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It sucks to have to work at this age

 

 

 

 

 

Something about the red haired guy just attracts all the females

 

 

 

 

 

This years "saddle shot" of Kenny.

 

 

 

 

This guy and his friend were hiking down the road in the middle of nowhere.Notice the crutches he only has one leg.

 

 

 

 

Mark carves a corner going down into Batoplis

 

 

 

This was a great trip,they don't get much better than this one.

[Ken H.]

Personally, I have no idea in the world how you guys ride that stuff. I'd be scared shit-less. So I'll just enjoy it vicariously. I do admire you all though!

[tallman]

Great report.

Looks like y'all had a fabulous time.

You're probably correct...

los turistas estan viniendo, los turistas estan viniendo,

they paved paradise, put up a parking lot.

[David]

Personally, I have no idea in the world how you guys ride that stuff. I'd be scared shit-less. So I'll just enjoy it vicariously. I do admire you all though!

 

You sort of just get in a groove and pay really careful attention to the surface. Most of all, you try to resist the urge to catch up with a KLR that weighs 170 lbs less than a 12GS.

 

Ken, I think you'd be surprised at how much traction you have with the right tires (TKC-80) and the right pressure (low 20s). It changes everything. And as long as you keep moving, the momemtum fixes most evils. It's in the slow, rocky stuff that you feel the weight of the big beast.

[Mike O]

Personally, I have no idea in the world how you guys ride that stuff. I'd be scared shit-less. So I'll just enjoy it vicariously. I do admire you all though!

 

Ken,

 

I certainly wouldn't be attempting this on my RT. I get nervous taking it to our cabin, on our county maintained roads which are far better than some of the pictures David posted. Now on a dual sport bike? Yup, I'd have a go.

 

Regards,

 

Mike O

[BPeterson]

I got back in late last night after a long haul through a bunch of rain through TX and AR.

 

Had a great time meeting up w/the group in Creel and a ton of fun riding w/David, Chris and Joe. Stayed at some amazing places and did some great riding. I can't believe some of the roads we were on. I'd have trouble riding some of them w/my mountain bike.

 

We took a bunch of photos (which I'll try to post later this week) and some helmet-cam video as well.

 

All in all a great trip except for the cross-country driving part. Next time I'll ship it to TX and fly down.

[Joel]

Great stuff! Thanks for sharing it.

 

Personally, I have no idea in the world how you guys ride that stuff. I'd be scared shit-less. So I'll just enjoy it vicariously. I do admire you all though!

 

You sort of just get in a groove and pay really careful attention to the surface. Most of all, you try to resist the urge to catch up with a KLR that weighs 170 lbs less than a 12GS.

 

Ken, I think you'd be surprised at how much traction you have with the right tires (TKC-80) and the right pressure (low 20s). It changes everything. And as long as you keep moving, the momemtum fixes most evils. It's in the slow, rocky stuff that you feel the weight of the big beast.

 

I'd be interested in more about this -- your assessment of the bike for this kind of trip now that you've done it again. When I get a little more off-pavement experience on my own big beast, I think I'd like to try a trip like this.

[questrider]

Personally, I have no idea in the world how you guys ride that stuff. I'd be scared shit-less. So I'll just enjoy it vicariously. I do admire you all though!

In a way, Ken, I agree. However, I don't know if I'm optimistic or just plain stupid, but I plan to do this sort of riding in the not-too-distant future, most likely in Utah first, then perhaps in some places in Alaska, although that will not be exactly the same. I love reading ride tales such as this because it gives me more ideas of how to get to certain places. My wife really wants to go to Cabo San Lucas someday, but since I do not fly, I've suggested that we ride down there in a few years once she becomes a better rider. We were planning to just ride down and then back up the Baja pennisula, but I read ride tales like this and realize we could go down through Copper Canyon and then take a ferry over to Baja and then ride back up the pennisula home. As I said above, this may be optimistic, or just plain stupid. I sometimes have trouble discerning between the two sometimes.

[chadhargis]

Knowing Rick as well as I do....I know NOTHING you guys saw on that ride even remotely came close to the character, wit, and sarcasm Rick dished out at every stop.

 

Did I ever tell you guys about the pictures he took of me when we ran into a bachelorette party the weekend of the Georgia Mountian Rally? My wife was not happy when the camera got delivered to HER! OUCH!

[RichEdwards]

Looks like a fabulous trip. The people of Mexico have the most wonderful smiles, especially the children! How was the weather? Rain? Temperatures?

[David]

Personally, I have no idea in the world how you guys ride that stuff. I'd be scared shit-less. So I'll just enjoy it vicariously. I do admire you all though!

In a way, Ken, I agree. However, I don't know if I'm optimistic or just plain stupid, but I plan to do this sort of riding in the not-too-distant future, most likely in Utah first, then perhaps in some places in Alaska, although that will not be exactly the same. I love reading ride tales such as this because it gives me more ideas of how to get to certain places. My wife really wants to go to Cabo San Lucas someday, but since I do not fly, I've suggested that we ride down there in a few years once she becomes a better rider. We were planning to just ride down and then back up the Baja pennisula, but I read ride tales like this and realize we could go down through Copper Canyon and then take a ferry over to Baja and then ride back up the pennisula home. As I said above, this may be optimistic, or just plain stupid. I sometimes have trouble discerning between the two sometimes.

 

It's a wonderful experience to take a 12GS down there. It's fantastic on the paved roads and a true pack mule. But riding it off-road is a chore. It's very heavy and geared a tad tall.

 

The 12GS is a compromise bike that doesn't do anything well. It takes a little courage to slide both front and back wheels around corners and up hills, but it's not unsafe if you work up to it and concentrate.

 

Of the 20 bikes that went, only 3 were 12GS models. Everything else was smaller and lighter and more dropable.

[David]

Looks like a fabulous trip. The people of Mexico have the most wonderful smiles, especially the children!

 

 

How was the weather? Rain? Temperatures?

 

Not a drop of rain. Lows in the mid 30s. Highs in the upper 70s. Part of that temperature equation is the altitude, as you spend a lot of time above 8,000 ft.

[questrider]

It's a wonderful experience to take a 12GS down there. It's fantastic on the paved roads and a true pack mule. But riding it off-road is a chore. It's very heavy and geared a tad tall.

 

The 12GS is a compromise bike that doesn't do anything well. It takes a little courage to slide both front and back wheels around corners and up hills, but it's not unsafe if you work up to it and concentrate.

 

Of the 20 bikes that went, only 3 were 12GS models. Everything else was smaller and lighter and more dropable.

Thanks for the input, David. As you know, I'm still lusting after a GS and hope to get one by this summer or later in the season. Right now, I'm still riding the RT, so the weight difference to the GS will be welcome, however, I'm still very aware it's a pig compared to other dual-sport bikes. But the issue for me is that I can only own one bike at a time, especially with my wife getting her own 650 GS this year, so the 12GS seems like the perfect bike for me since I can tour with it on the road while also taking advantage of some trails like White Rim Trail in Utah, or going to Alaska, or Mexico, or heck, even riding all the gravel roads that surround me here in rural Illinois with a little more confidence, or without the fear of breaking plastic if I dropped it, which is what I ride with a bit now on the RT, thus I watch where I ride it.

 

In a perfect world I could keep my RT for road touring, and get either the 650 GS, KLR or KTM for my off-road touring, as you guys just did in Mexico. But I will only be able to have one bike, so it looks like the GS is the right choice for me. It's going from one pig to another, however, the GS is a pig I can drop and put battle scars on without destroying a fairing that will break the bank/insurance to replace.

 

Someday I will make it to Copper Canyon. Until then, I will enjoy living vicariously through threads such as this one. Thanks for sharing!

[Kenny Haynes]

What a great trip this was. When we first discussed a return to the canyons a year ago, I was a little reluctant to go back. Not that there wasn’t plenty to see, and many roads left to ride. It’s hard to believe sometimes that the sequel can live up to the original. But it did, and we had a terrific adventure.

 

 

It’s hard to imagine the amount of time that water, wind and freeze/thaw have been at work here.

 

 

 

It was great to be back in Batopilas, enjoying a cold beverage with friends.

 

 

We fed this old gentleman last year, and I was pretty happy to see him again. I suspect these dogs have a pretty tough life.

 

I love this road, though it can provoke a brown moment when you get too close to the edge.

 

 

Dave and Will passing through

 

 

 

 

 

Had the feeling we were being watched at the pemex near the Batopilas cut off. We were.

 

 

Quite a contrast of cultures in this pic from Divisadero I thought.

 

 

This little guy was really having fun.

 

 

Sinforosa Canyon was really beautiful. As usual, the pictures fail to convey what we saw.

 

 

 

What a blast. It was great to be there again, and to get to meet some new folks there as well. Thanks to the guys in our group for being such fun travel companions. Where are we going next?

 

Feel free to browse the rest of my photos here:

 

2006 copper canyon pics

[Doug 55]

 

 

W-O-W

 

[johnlt]

Just a quick note to let eveyone know that the Tucson group of 8 returned safely Sunday evening after a serious "adventure tour" day of riding through 3 significant snow storms including one near Tucson. No injuries or major crashes. Full post to follow,

[Bruce H]

What an incrediable trip! Thanks for the photos.

[skinny_tom (aka boney)]

Still on the road. GS and I should be home after another 500 miles of slab today.

[questrider]

Now that's what dreams are made of! Awesome pic, wonderful terrain. How deep was the drop-off to the left of the road and in front of David around that corner? This question harks back to Ken H.'s "I'd be scared shit-less" comment. I agree! Too much speed and one slip of the back brake in tandem with bad front braking in this terrain and I'd have more than a sprained ankle!

[Kenny Haynes]

Thanks. It's hard to imagine going off the side without some pretty significant injuries, though the depth and steepness varies depending on where you are on the road. It is not uncommon to meet traffic on the road either, varying from cars to some pretty good sized trucks or road grading equipment(last year a pepsi truck was coming across the bridge as we went down). The blind corners are obviously best taken slowly. Locals drive the road quite quickly.

[Chrish1234]

Great, new friends and tons of great riding. What more can you ask for?

 

Thanks to Joe Pilz Jr., Brian Peterson, and David Sprague. I couldn't ask to travel with a better group of guys

 

It was terrific meeting everyone in Creel.

Chris

 

PS: Hope you don't mind me throwing a couple of pictures in....

 

Our Hotel one night:

 

Part of the road to Urique:

 

Mexican military on the same road:

 

Children in Urique:

 

Looking for an adventure:

 

But watch out for the trucks:

 

We were tired as a three-legged dog when it was all over:

 

[Tasker]

Mexican military on the same road:

 

When you see military in Mexico, is this usually a good thing, or something that causes anxiety and pause?

[David]

When you see military in Mexico, is this usually a good thing, or something that causes anxiety and pause?

 

It's very, very different than it used to be. They are no longer the corrupt, power-hungry military of the past, particularly in this Mexican state. I'd feel a tad differently in places like Chiapas.

 

You have to separate them in your minds, too.

 

There's nothing to fear from the military.

 

The immigration folks only care about the proper paperwork.

 

The customs folks only care about collecting taxes on imported items.

 

The federales care about drugs and guns, and they do have a fair amount of unchecked power. But they are friendly and reasonable, and they realize that tourism is one of Mexico's largest sources of income.

 

We were stopped three times, and the key is to be respectful and make them laugh. At the last step I told them: "Yo soy el chapulin colorádo," a hilarious cartoon character he instantly recognized. And earlier, it wasn't too difficult to talk them out of confiscating Todd's camera for taking pictures of the military, which is not a good thing to do in any third world country.

[StretchMark]

And Kenny said the body cavity searches really weren't all that unpleasant

[Kenny Haynes]

Si, me gusta.

[Chrish1234]

When you see military in Mexico, is this usually a good thing, or something that causes anxiety and pause?

 

We were checked a few times and it never made me feel anxious. They seemed to do a cursory check, then waved us on our way. All in all, I'd say they were quite professional and courteous.

 

Regards,

Chris

[BusterBrown]

Personally, I have no idea in the world how you guys ride that stuff. I'd be scared shit-less. So I'll just enjoy it vicariously. I do admire you all though!

 

Hello, gents. I am a new member of this forum. I passed most of you on the road out as you were riding into the canyon. You probably met some other members of our party who remained in Batopilas for another day.

 

Although the ride out of Bato was my first time on that road, I understand that we were fortunate to find it in such good condition. The lone female member of our party rode it without difficulty despite a shoulder injury which had kept her away from some of the more strenuous routes in the area.

 

I am surprised that you did not find any restaurants in town. The Nevada did not open while we were there, but we got a passable breakfast at the Hotel Mary restaurant, and a couple of very good meals at the Puente Colgante. The patio there is an excellent place to pass an afternoon with a jarra (or six) of Sol and clamato to help work out the kinks. To be sure, the best meal we had was at the home of the woman across the street from the convent, who served us on her front porch.

 

Did you try the lechugilla? Bato is supposedly a dry town except for the bars and restaurants, but we got Mexican moonshine from the little store just past the convent. It is a little harsh at first, but the more you drink, the worse it gets. Makes a great souvenir, though, in the dusty Fresca bottle, and it only costs a little more than a good reposado.

[One]

..."At the last step I told them: "Yo soy el chapulin colorádo,..."

 

 

..."Y no contaban con mi astucia".

 

David,I'm glad you guys had a blast; keep on coming back.

 

 

 

Juan

[Macamoose]

Looks like a great trip. Another one to add to the to do list. Great pictures too. Thanks for sharing.

Thad

[David_S]

I had a great time. Chris, Brian and Joe were great riding partners and provided mucho laughs. This was actually my first dual sport / adventure ride on a bike light enough for me to handle and enjoy.

 

 

DS

[Matts_12GS]

But the issue for me is that I can only own one bike at a time, especially with my wife getting her own 650 GS this year, so the 12GS seems like the perfect bike for me since I can tour with it on the road while also taking advantage of some trails like White Rim Trail in Utah, or going to Alaska, or Mexico, or heck, even riding all the gravel roads that surround me here in rural Illinois with a little more confidence, or without the fear of breaking plastic if I dropped it, which is what I ride with a bit now on the RT, thus I watch where I ride it.

 

If it is a matter of economics, I'd strongly recommend the VSTROMS, either 650 or 1000 unless you just have to have a roundel on your bike.

 

I recently acquired a 650 and am lusting to ride it someplace like this or else AK. After reading this article Thad Alaska I'm even more excited to go out and get dirty on a bike that is much more, as they said, droppable than a GS.

 

JMO, YMMV but go check one out, you'll be surprised.

[L40]

Hi Y'all,

 

I'm the old gal that rode with BusterBrown et al. I had one of the two XT600's you saw (I wasn't the one riding with the worn out, and manually re-grooved road tire. Can you even beLIEVE he did all that riding on that absurd tire?!!! ) As I was coming out of Batopilas I ran into some of you at the gas station right before you hit the dirt going into Bato. I'm glad to hear you had a great trip.

 

 

 

River crossing on the road from Bato to Urique:

 

 

Previous years I found the roads more than just a little challenging. Having missed out on this trip last year due to a broken neck (Flattrack racing) I was REALLY glad to find the roads in such good condition as I was a little concerned about riding with a torn rotator cuff. Unfortunately most of the riders in our group were a little disappointed that the roads weren't a little more challenging. I remember a time when, in order to get fuel in Bato you had to suck/syphen it from the hose the gas station 'attendant' handed you. Nowadays they have a new-fangled gas pump with a handle, counter and everthang. What happened to the adventure??? Although, I suppose gasoline poisoning is the same whether you get it from the gas station or from eating the food that was in your tank bag, huh Paulo? NonetheLISS, this trip is a great distraction from the everyday grind.

 

In The Sport,

 

Lissa

[David]

Hi, Lissa, and thanks for checking in. I remember you well. I'm the first guy that pulled up and said hi. I was on the big ugly red GS.

 

Yes, I was a little surprised at his tire, and in fact pointed it out to a few of my riding companions!

[johnlt]

Hi Lissa. I think I recall seeing your group coming back from Bato. I was on the old R100GSPD. Is the pic of the watercrossing from this year. The river didn't look quite that deep this year but in the fall when I was there last (2004) it was really roaring. I thought the March conditions looked like much lower water levels.