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Used Corbin seat is jammed/stuck on my 04 R1150RT Help!


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So, a really nice guy on the forum hooked me up with a used Corbin seat for my 04 R1150RT. I put it on my bike and noticed that it was a really tight fit, but wasn't alarmed by that and massaged the rear seat in until it clicked. It wasn't a big deal. The driver's seat is too wide for me, otherwise I could deal with it. It's better than what I had and I had a Corbin on a FJR earlier in life.


Well, now it is stuck or jammed in and I can't get it out. I've tryed prying, wiggling, jerking, pulling, turning the key both ways and I've put the backrest in to give myself leverage in twisting and jerking the seats. I'm at the end of my rope. I've tried letting the bike run for a few minutes, I've sat on both seats and wiggled around trying to lock them both back in and starting over. There is a gap now between the front and rear seat from all of the prying and pulling that I've done. The key stays in the turned clockwise position when I stick it in and turn it, so I don't have to stand there and hold it, I just check it every couple of minutes.


I've left messages with Corbin, but haven't heard back from them yet.


Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you for your help.







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I forget the seat unlock sequence on your bike but did you try weighting the seat while turning the key?



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While turning the key, use your fist to smack the passenger seat downward . Hit it with your pinky end of the fist, like you are trying to crack walnuts with it, not your knuckles.

Like pounding on a desk type fist while at the tax guys office .

This almost always works


Having someone sit on the pass seat could also work, like suggested above.

"Weighting the seat" but normally the hitting, jarring does it.

Either the seats latch needs adjustment or shimming with washers to get a bigger gap between the seat and the seat hook.



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I had just the reverse problem on my R1100RT. My rear seat was too loose, but an adjustment of the latch solved my problem. But, of course, I could get my seat off. Yours is probably too low in the latch, which means you are going to have to apply a lot of pressure to be able to turn the key to unlatch the mechanism. Then, add spacers under the seat bracket so it does not go so deep in the latch. When I put a new Corbin on my Honda, that's what I did to get the seat properly latched.

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Not saying the OP falls into the category I'm about to ramble on about:


Something else about used aftermarket seats such as Corbin

Corbin gets a lot of bad press on the internet about their seats.

Many of these complaints, once you peel away the layers of the story involve a rider buying a 5-8 year old seat that has been on a bike for miles, baked in the sun for years then the original owner sells the bike then starts farming off the accessories separate to make more money.

Then the new owner claims junk ! That his already worn(out) Corbin seat is too hard, the foam is no good, etc.

Then they call Corbin to see about a re-foam or re-cover, Corbin asks if they bought the seat new, checks the database and refuses to re-cover it or re-do it.

THEN the seat owner cries foul and blasts Corbin on the Internet for poor customer service.

They will re-do a used seat but it's intentionally about the price of a new one.

They have also re-done seats for the original purchaser after 4-5 years at no charge.

I have bought Corbin's since 1986, started selling them when I started in the m/c world in 1998 and they are good folks who want to not get hosed by re-cycling old seats that are clearly past their prime.

All seats wear out, factory, Corbin, Mayer, just like any other heavy use part does.





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Roger C: Thanks for the information. I've got someone coming over today to help me with that very issue and maybe I'll be able to get it off.


Tri750: I agree and I'm not bashing Corbin, I've had their product before with no issue other than they are a hard seat, which I must have liked. I just need to get the seat back off. It's too wide for me. Otherwise, I like it.


Thanks for your advice and input, I appreciate it.

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Brad -


Again, I am so sorry about that. If I even remotely suspected what would happen, I would've just tossed the seat in the trash.


When I had it on my bike (same model/year) my only issue was the front would wobble and it was a bit low and hard for my liking. Otherwise, it worked fine.


Best of luck.

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Based on the R1100RT I was on recently, this may be due to the front seat being in a different height position from the previous bike or the tabs that hold the front and rear seats together not being aligned properly. If the side covers can come off with the seat installed, I'd remove them and the luggage and see if you can look in there at all to find a way to relieve the pressure. I think the side panels can be removed with the seat in place, but my memory could be off. Of course, try beating down on the seat while turning the key first. The fact that you've turned the key and it jammed, doesn't mean the latch has released. There is a fair bit of slop in the key / latch mechanism.

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brianh70: No worries my friend, thank you for helping me out, this is not your fault. It's just one of those things and it will work it self out. I appreciate your friendship.


rxcrider: I'll try that today.


I did try putting pressure on the rear seat and found that the key moved easily clockwise and I could get the slightest wiggle out of the passenger seat. I'll keep working on it.


Thanks again for all the advice. :-)

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Afternoon bradman


Those can be a REAL PAIN to get to come loose. The pounding/shaking/even hanging from a tree limb & jumping will sometimes work but not always.


If you have a BMW motorcycle dealer near you then a trip to the dealer might be worth while. Back in the 11500RT days they used to get those on a regular basis.


The BMW tec is usually pretty skilled at getting those stuck seats to come loose (my dealer never even charged the customer).



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Dirtrider: Your point is well taken and I would take it to my dealer at this point if I could, but unfortunately the damage is now done.


I pulled a little too hard on the seat and ripped a hole in the fender where the key assembly is attached to the plastic. I now have a huge hole. I'll be replacing the fender now. Maybe I'll try some JB Weld until the fender comes in.





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Evening bradman




I doubt JB (alone) will hold that part back in place.


But you can probably use a piece of aluminum backer that extends out onto the remaining inner fender under that piece with some JB weld to bond it.


Also use a few pop rivets around the perimeter & through that broken piece to retain attachment.


JB is good in peal retention but pi$$ poor for edge bonding.

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The fender might be ABS plastic similar to some of the body panels. Not sure? If so, ABS cement would probably work to chemically weld that thing back together, as a temporary solution until the new fender comes in. It'll look like a bulls a$$ though.

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Pop rivets in the break with fender washers on both sides MIGHT hold until the new/used fender arrives.


Edit. Just noticed the two pieces.

Above won't work on two large pieces. Alu straps 1" x 1/8" x (however long, 2" overlap onto "good" fender each end) on the bottom side pop riveted with fender washers on the top side should hold it.

Edited by Lowndes
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How much is a fender?


You could absolutely stitch that back together with a sheet of aluminum, some rivets, washers and a bit of adhesive. I bet for less than $25.


I doubt anyone would ever see it either.

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MaxBMW has the piece for $141.00, but I've found it for as low as $39.00 on Ebay. I was waiting to make sure that it was the right part from the seller. When he confirms it, I'll buy it from him. Can't beat that.


The aluminum is a really good idea, though. Thank you.

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If your sources fail to provide the inner fender you need, let me know. I should have one from a 1995 or 1996 RS kicking around in the spares box.

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