Neutral Switch Replacement (AKA Idle Switch)

[Roger C]

60 pages of searching and no hits for Neutral Switch. My Clymer says this switch (located at rear of transmission) can be replaced by removing the center stand. The BMW repair manual shows the transmission opened up and a dotted line indicating the switch goes inside the transmission. I can't even see the rear of the transmission on my R1100RT. The catalytic converter sure takes up a lot of space underneath.

 

Anybody ever replaced this switch? Did you have to take the transmission apart? It was suggested to me to leave the replacement of the switch to such time that I had to replace the clutch disc, so I guess that means the switch is inside the tranny.

[flars]

The neutral switch 'just' bolts to the back of the transmission: it is external to the transmission. Getting to it is just a lot of "take this off, then take that off, then take these other things off".

I don't know anyone who has actually replaced one because of the hours that it requires.

[Roger C]

Where physically is the switch located? I have actually touched the clutch adjustment bolt. Was I close to the switch? Can the switch be sprayed with electronic cleaner?

[szurszewski]

It is not inside the transmission (and you don't need to open the transmission to do a clutch either, by the way - the clutch is between the tranny and engine - not inside either), it's on the back of the transmission. I've not replaced one, but my understanding is it's near to if not impossible to do with the swingarm in place. There are some who have "cleaned" it in place with some benefit, but I can't find those threads right now either...

 

[Tri750]

It's also possible that after replacing the switch, your lazy neutral light may return the next week, or the next year, or never.

We would always warn customers that this was a possibility if they really wanted the switch replaced.

Once you've lived with it a while, it's easy to accept the quirk.

 

Mine has done it since I got the bike back in '05.

 

[dirtrider]

Morning Roger C

 

The reason you don't find much on the idle switch (neutral switch) is that it

is piggyback to the GEAR POSITION INDICATOR SWITCH.

 

So search for GEAR POSITION INDICATOR SWITCH replace for your make & model BMW.

 

The position switch do/can come apart for interval cleaning but there are brass

pins & small springs in the gear position switch that will be difficult to find

if not really careful.

 

It is a real pain to access the idle switch (neutral switch) without using special

made wrenches or without removing the rear swing arm so most just either live with

it or by-pass it relying on the clutch switch to provide starting continuity.

 

Both the idle switch (neutral switch) & the gear position switch are bolted to the

rear (external) of the trans (in line with the shift drum as that is what drives the

switches) but even so you can't easily access them or even see them.

 

 

Edited January 23, 2017 by dirtrider

[dirtrider]

Idle switch (neutral switch) close-up--

 

[Selden]

Thanks for the great pictures, which explain why I couldn't find it while doing a clutch replacement. Filed away for future (hopefully never) use.

[Roger C]

Another quirk about the R1100 cycles. My gear position switch works fine, and the RID displays the gear correctly. It is the neutral switch which is flaky. But I've read an old thread and a couple others poster Michael Stock sent me wherein there have been numerous comments about the inconsistency of the neutral switch. It blows my mind to spend $400-600 to have the switch replaced and be told "It might not work" as quoted from member Tri750.

 

With greater than 50K on the odo I'm more concerned about the clutch switch failing on me or brake lining bursting or gas lines leaking, or whatever else can go wrong, than a flaky, expensive neutral switch. I'll continue to pull the clutch to start. I'm too impatient to wait for the neutral light to come on as when I roll the cycle out, that means I'm ready to ride.

[Roger C]

dirtrider, when you say "or bypass it" in talking about the neutral switch, do you mean tying the wires together? Would that cause the "N" light to always be lit?

 

I guess I am looking for a 20 year old cycle to perform flawlessly like a new cycle.

Edited January 23, 2017 by Roger C

[dirtrider]

dirtrider, when you say "or bypass it" in talking about the neutral switch, do you mean tying the wires together? Would that cause the "N" light to always be lit?

 

Afternoon Roger

 

Yes, unless you add a switch so you can only by-pass it when needed.

[Stan Walker]

Yes, unless you add a switch so you can only by-pass it when needed.

 

Or pull the bulb,,,,, or cut the wire to the bulb.....

[Roger C]

FYI. the earlier Goldwings only have a neutral light and a 5th gear symbol. If you want to see what other gear you are in, you have to purchase an aftermarket system. Not sure how they work.

[dirtrider]

FYI. the earlier Goldwings only have a neutral light and a 5th gear symbol. If you want to see what other gear you are in, you have to purchase an aftermarket system. Not sure how they work.

 

Evening Roger C

 

More than likely engine RPM vs vehicle speed.

[Roger C]

Makes sense. I've never pursued buying the kit, just have accepted what I had. I'm trying to accept the nuisances the R1100RT has, as well.

 

I spent some time this afternoon with a mirror and flashlight in an attempt to locate the connector for the clutch switch, hoping I would find it and be able to reach it by hand. The wire goes underneath the nose piece on the left side, then turns down and disappears. The repair manual says removal of the nose piece is necessary to disconnect the wiring. I believe it now.

[Jim Moore]

With greater than 50K on the odo I'm more concerned about the clutch switch failing on me or brake lining bursting or gas lines leaking, or whatever else can go wrong, than a flaky, expensive neutral switch. I'll continue to pull the clutch to start. I'm too impatient to wait for the neutral light to come on as when I roll the cycle out, that means I'm ready to ride.

 

Tp put it bluntly the clutch switch ain't so reliable either. when it fails you'll be kinda stuck. You can strip the wires to the switch and wire them together. Or you can pull the starter relay and jump hole 2 to hole 6 with a thin piece of wire.

[szurszewski]

Makes sense. I've never pursued buying the kit, just have accepted what I had. I'm trying to accept the nuisances the R1100RT has, as well.

 

I spent some time this afternoon with a mirror and flashlight in an attempt to locate the connector for the clutch switch, hoping I would find it and be able to reach it by hand. The wire goes underneath the nose piece on the left side, then turns down and disappears. The repair manual says removal of the nose piece is necessary to disconnect the wiring. I believe it now.

 

It is possible to replace it without removing the nose piece - I did it once and never, in ten years, removed the nose of my RT. You were pretty close, as I recall, to where it connects - but that's all I've got for you, other than I have small hands and it was still a pain.

 

In fact, recalling how much of a pain it was, the next time it went out I just cut the wires at the handlebar and twisted them together

[Roger C]

Removing plastic with a speed ratchet is so much easier than nursing wounds on the hands and arms which prevents gloves from being worn, thus no riding.