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Fuel Filter Change??


Ghostdad

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I'm having problems trying to remove the fuel filter, on my 97' 1100RT. I'm hoping some one can lend some knowledge before I break something...lol

(a: how do you unplug the wire from housing? It's hard to see the plug and I don't want break the connecter by pulling too hard or trying to unhook it.

 

(b: once I get it unplugged what is the safest way of getting the filter out without damaging the float?

 

(c: then when I replace the filter what type of clamps should I use at the filter and the other 2 small lines that are in the tank?

 

(d: finaly at installation should I do something with the o'ring like put a little grease on it get it to stay in place or do they hold in a groove?

 

This is my first time servicing my Rt so I'm being a little cautious trying to take my time and get it right the first time and not cause myself more grief by screwing up...lol

TIA

Dave confused.gif

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Peter_Doege

a) I can't remember how to disengage the electrics.

b) I just jiggled the assembly, removed the vent lines, and then jiggled the assembly out. It takes a bit of patience.

c) I used clamps that I bought from the local dealer. They are standard fuel injection clamps that you can get from an auto parts store.

d) There is a groove for the oring. An older oring will need to dry before you reassemble everything.

 

Good luck, this is not a "fun" procedure, but it is doable with patience.

 

Peter

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a couple of things on the fuel injection clamps. tighten them up good, also you need to position them so the float switch doesn't hangup.

on the electrics, are you talking disconnecting them on the inside, why do you need to disconnect them? you should not have to.

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a couple of things on the fuel injection clamps. tighten them up good, also you need to position them so the float switch doesn't hangup.

on the electrics, are you talking disconnecting them on the inside, why do you need to disconnect them? you should not have to.

 

yes I'm trying to disconnect them on the inside, is there a different way of getting the assembly out of the tank? There doesn't seem to be enough slack in the wiring to pull it out without disconnecting the wires..

Am I going about this the wrong way?

TIA

Dave

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yes I'm trying to disconnect them on the inside, is there a different way of getting the assembly out of the tank? There doesn't seem to be enough slack in the wiring to pull it out without disconnecting the wires..

Am I going about this the wrong way?

you don't need to disconnect the wires inside, they go from the plate to the fuel pump and float switch which both the pump and switch are conneced to the plate which all should come out together. you may need to rotate and angle the assembly slightly to clear everything.

 

a picture attached of inside

656545-fuelpump.JPG.b974839cad25671fe9474e5586865b72.JPG

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Thank you for your help.. The Haynes manual said to disconnect the wires... This board is a great place to get the neccesary help during a project..

Thanks Again

Dave

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No_Twilight

Ghostdad,

It sounds like you are talking about the two smaller vent lines that could be confused with heavily insulated electrical lines. These are held on by one-time-use hose clamps called oetiker clamps. To take them off I take a good pair of sidecutters and snip off the crimped part. To put them back on (new ones) you can buy a tool for them on ebay or used a dulled pair of sidecutters or end cutters or borrow a tool from me if you live nearby. I didn't check your location.

 

Later I'll talk about replacing the oetiker clamps that hold on your fuel filter with screw type clamps as an option. Unfortunately, this isn't an option for the vent clamps because they're too small. Some have used zip ties pulled real tight to hold them on. Others have reused the oetiker clamps (sometime you can get them off the same way they go on). There may be various other solutions. Or the tool is $10 on ebay. Search for oetiker.

 

Once you get those two vent hoses off you then just move it around until you get the float and things oriented to comeout.

 

Now you take the fuel filter out. Before you start note the direction of the flow arrow so you can get the fuel filter installed correctly. If you forget this, remember that fuel comes out the pump so point the arrow away from the pump.

 

Two things to be careful: The plastic nozzle on the fuel pump will break off (mine broke off in a low side crash) and the ceramic pc board behind the fuel filter is not replacealbe as a part but you have to replace the entire assembly. Oh, yeah, a third thing: don't damage the sock on the base of the fuel pump.

 

The hoses fit tight and won't be easy to get off. Perhaps gentle use of pliers or a some prying implement may be required if you don't have strong fingers. I was prying the end of the hose up with a screwdriver when it slipped an shattered my little printed circuit board. Won't do that again.

 

With a little care you should have no problem.

 

When taking the lines off the fuel filter, it it has never been change before you'll find the same type of clamps. Unless you buy/borrow a tool, you'll want to go back with screw type fuel line clamps. The dealer will sell them to you and the BMW ones are nicer than the ones at the auto parts store, fit better, and don't cost much more so I like them.

 

Good luck,

Jerry

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Unfortunately, this isn't an option for the vent clamps because they're too small

My bmw parts guy at Max BMW has smaller screw type clamps which i used.

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Well I'm happy to say the tune up is done.... Valve Adjust, Fuel Filter, Spark plugs, and T.B. Synch.. All 1st's for me and I couldn't have done it without the comprised knowledge of the people on this board... Thanks

I wasn't able to take it for a ride yet but it seems to idle a bit smoother... Will test ride tomorrow and hopefully return with a smile on my face..lol

Thank You

Dave thumbsup.gif

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