ignition switch

[mike g]

Just got back from Daytona. great time, I'll put that somewhere else.

 

While there, one day got back to the bike and the handlebars had been moved, the fork lock snapped off. The key would not even go into the slot. After a bit of wiggling and such (there was a lot of that going around in daytona) the key did go in, but nothing I could do would allow it to turn anything. We finally hot wired it, connecting green to red. I had a dead toggle switch on the dash from something else, so for the rest of the week my ignition was a toggle switch.

 

Questions:

should I have connected the other 3 wires also?

Did I do something weird to the circuits by doing what I did?

can I just get the lock part, or do I need to get a new switch (news keys!!!)?

I did find the pin, it was clearly broken off.

 

Anyone ever install a switch?

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Mike

[Ken H.]

What model, year of bike? Your profile is blank, and there's no clue in you post.

 

Just to pull one out of the hat, on the R1100xx the locking tab, called a "fracture bolt", can actually be replaced separately if that is all that is broke.

 

If the ignition switch housing itself is broken (likely) it can be replaced separate from the lock cylinder itself. You just transfer the cylinder and of course your key stays the same.

 

If the cylinder is damaged too, you can get a new cylinder and then the dealer can key it to match.

 

Obviously it all depends on what actually broke. Tear into it and go from there.

 

Oh, and did I ask, what model, year of bike?

[mike g]

Sorry.

 

1999 R1100RT

 

I figured I would just have to open it up and see what was broke. Thanks for the help though.

 

Mike

[Ken H.]

Here's the exploded view:

 

[mike g]

Thanks again. I had found this also at A&S. The fracture bolt actually appears to be the non-tampper bolts that hold the unit to the triple tree. haynes says you have to drill the head off these then reinstall with special head bolts.

 

The lock is identified as item 7 which is a little confusing in the diagram.

 

Haynes also says you have to remove the top triple tree.

 

I suppose it will all be clear when I get into it. Due to some committments this week, I probably won't be able to get to it till Saturday or Sunday.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

I'll keep you posted.

Mike

[BMT]

Item 7 in the diagram is the seat lock. Confusing, isn't it?!

 

Items 1 to 6 are for the ignition switch/steering lock end of the bike.

[mike g]

Thanks Nick.

Yea it is confusing. So where is the little plug/pin that acts as the steering lock? Or is it all one part unit? Still haven't opened it all up yet.

 

Mike

[Davis]

Part 1 in the previously posted diagram is the steering lock housing, it is fastened with the breakaway bolt that must be drilled out. Attached to the bottom of part 1 is the electrical switch part which is turned by a tab on the bottom of the lock cylinder. Not shown in the previous diagram is the actual lock cylinder(Part 1 below).

 

 

If you are lucky you can remove the remmants of the broken pin and spring, insert your key, press in the spring loaded tab that holds the cylinder in and withdraw the lock cylinder. You may get lucky and be able to replace the steering lock pin and spring (Part 9 above) and put it all back together. You may not be so lucky and the force of breaking the lock galled the inside of the steering lock housing necessitating replacing the housing (and maybe the lock cylinder) as well as the pin.

[mike g]

Thanks a lot. I will try that method first.

I do have the broken pin. The small spring is still attached to it. There is a recess around the circumference at one end, sort of a groove. The bottom edge of the groove, where it is the larger diameter again, has been cracked and broken, so maybe this broke and not the interior. I'll see when it is apart.

 

I appreciate the help.

Mike

[mike g]

I got the steering lock housing from Bob's. A&S didn't have it in stock. They were both very helpful. The salesman thought the housing came with a new lock cylinder, but when it got here it didn't. I was able to get mine out of the old one, after cutting it apart. I had to do that cause the cylinder was in the wrong position to align the small pin that holds it in, and the mashed up steering lock slide wouldn't let it turn at all.

 

I did get it all out and together again. It works fine now. About 7 hours of time altogether with taking the bike apart, I did have to remove the top triple tree, removing and opening the old housing, installing it all, and closing up the tupperware again. Not bad.

 

Thank you all for your help and support. This place is great. If anyone needs assitance in the future let me know.

 

Mike