Oil Change on Time not Miles

[LAF]

Well my service light nag has been coming on and I assume it is time and not mileage.

 

I only have 4068 miles on my 15 RTW!

 

I bought the bike in July of 2015. In August of 2015 I fell off a ladder and sustained a calcaneus heel fracture.

 

http://orthoinfo.aaos.org

/topic.cfm?topic=A00524

 

This is how my foot looked.

 

EMBEDDED PHOTO OF INJURY REMOVED BY ADMIN.

 

The blisters came a day or two after the fall. Also I had compressed C5 in the fall and did not feel it until two days latter. So no riding for a year! Sucked big time and still does as the ankle is not completely healed yet. Orthopedic says a year to a year and a half.

 

So the light comes on at start and then goes out. I figure I need to change it so I do.

 

Oil looked a bit black but still not sludge and still a little color to it. I cleaned the pan spotless and looked for chunks. I did see some sparkles in the bottom of the pan but no big deal IMHO.

 

I did take it out for a very spirited ride before changing the oil and used Shift Pro more on this ride then over the life of the bike. Probably in the 50 to 60 shifts range. Have to say most were good shifts but some especially going down into low gears a bit notchy but no outright grind.

 

I used LIQUI Moly to fill it back up. Not quite four liters. I filled to about 3/4 in the sight glass after a few runs to make sure it was full. I know it has been said half mark in the sight glass but I wanted a bit more then that and the difference is pretty minute anyway.

 

I also change FD fluid at every oil change as it is very cheap insurance. I know not for everyone but just me. At a 180 ml a bottle lasts forever. I also used LIQUI Moly gear oil.

 

So I have to say the bike shifts much better! I do not believe it is a placebo effect as it has been short rides on different days and it just shifts better. Of course no science here but I can feel a difference.

 

So I sent the BMW oil with 3400 miles into Blackstone Labs for analysis. I also paid for a TBN test so am very interested in that result.

 

So when I get the results where do I post so we all can keep a running list of Oil Analysis?

 

New Thread: Oil Analysis ?

 

I think this will be interesting information to have and look at, and maybe lend some credence to peoples favorite flavor of oil.

 

BMW is not my favorite flavor just what I used at the 600 when I took it to my dealer to get the stamp.

 

And yes I have a GS911 to reset the service minder. Glad I have it but could have done without the cost.

 

 

Edited August 29, 2016 by Mike

[Green RT]

You could have skipped the photo for my money, but maybe I just have a weak stomach.

[gordiet]

You could have skipped the photo for my money, but maybe I just have a weak stomach.

+1, for sure!

[AnotherLee]

Hi, Mike -

You wrote:

So when I get the results where do I post so we all can keep a running list of Oil Analysis?

 

I edited the .pdf file from Blackstone to remove my contact info (address, email, phone) using PDFbuddy (free), then uploaded the .pdf file to a hosting site (similar to posting pictures here on bmwst) and posted the link. Here is my collection of oil reports:

Oil Reports Over 4 Yrs

[LAF]

Thank you for the post. Am looking at them as I type this.

 

Good info and nice to see someone wanting to know how their motor is running.

 

Sorry for the picture to all of you sissy's, I mean people who were offended

 

Good thing I did not post a picture of my neck fusions from the total of the LT in 2010

[Mike]

 

Sorry for the picture to all of you sissy's, I mean people who were offended

 

Good thing I did not post a picture of my neck fusions from the total of the LT in 2010

 

If anyone wants to take a look, it was just replaced by a link. You might want wait until after you've had your breakfast.

[lkraus]

I didn't think it looked all that bad. Swelling and discoloration like a twisted ankle, blisters like I've gotten from poison ivy.

I don't understand how a fracture causes skin blisters, though, unless you fall into a patch of poison ivy.

 

This does feel like an oil thread, which can be even uglier than that picture...

[LAF]

Well good thing your not a doctor.

 

They are called fracture blisters.. They are caused by the impact that crushed my heal, and compressed C5 vertebra in my back.

 

Nahh, not bad at all. Hope you never experience a fall like this with the resulting injury.

 

Like I said I am a year and still have 6 months to go before it is completely healed.

 

[lkraus]

Well good thing your not a doctor.

 

They are called fracture blisters.. They are caused by the impact that crushed my heal, and compressed C5 vertebra in my back.

 

Yes, it is a very good thing that I'm not a doctor. Apparently fracture blisters are relatively uncommon, so I've not heard of them before.

 

I hope you don't think I was downplaying the severity of your injury. I just did not find the picture to be especially gross. Perhaps I've spent too much time lurking in the advrider basement...

[Chal De Cecco]

Same issue with my 2016 RS. Way below the service mileage time but the service light is on based on time and not mileage. Called the dealer and it was suggested that the braking system be bled and refreshed plus an oil charge and computer reset. Heading out for a 1K riding loop in the next few weeks so took the advice. $307 for the service. Nothing so distracting than a service light coming on in the middle of a trip........

[LAF]

Well I did not follow up on the UOA here.

 

First year old oil is fine! A waste of money to dump it. This from BlackStone Labs.

 

I will never dump on time again! They said unless it sat for like 5 years without EVER running, it needs dumped. If you run it occasionally it is fine for years up to the mileage change.

 

We pay a big price for additive packs and one of the things they do is stop any corrosion from acidic oil.

 

RT UOA

 

 

[dirtrider]

Same issue with my 2016 RS. Way below the service mileage time but the service light is on based on time and not mileage. Called the dealer and it was suggested that the braking system be bled and refreshed plus an oil charge and computer reset. Heading out for a 1K riding loop in the next few weeks so took the advice. $307 for the service. Nothing so distracting than a service light coming on in the middle of a trip........

 

Morning Chal De Cecco

 

Yes, that is what is required to maintain your BMW drive train & brake warranty.

 

BMW really doesn't know the motorcycle usage so puts 1 a year max service date on the engine oil (lots of auto manufactures do that also).

 

Your motorcycle could have been ridden (& started) every day at sub zero temps the only ridden a couple of miles (that will kill motor oil in a very short time but still be well below the recommended oil change miles)

 

BMW also can't account for a riders bad habits (like starting the engine then wandering away for an hour to do something else while allowing the engine to get very hot) --Or for an impatient rider that starts his engine once a week in freezing weather just to idle it & hear it run (that is also VERY HARD on engine oil).

 

Forcing a once a year oil change hopefully covers those things (& other oddities)

 

[LAF]

Brake fluid is every 2 years.

 

As I said from a UOA standpoint there is NO reason to change oil at one year! It is a waste of resources and the oil is fine.

 

Again your bike do what you will but oil does not need changed on a yearly schedule and brake fluid need a flush at 2 years no sooner.

 

Interesting they do not have a service interval for coolant. That should be done every 3 years without fail.

 

Now let me ask you all, when did you flush the brakes in your car? How about your antifreeze? Your clutch slave cylinder? How about change your manual transmission fluid? Or even you automatic transmission fluid? Exactly!

 

You all do what you want, but for what oil cost I will change at 6000 miles and get my UOA. I will flush my brakes and clutch at 2 years. I will change my coolant at 3 years.

 

YMMV

[dirtrider]

Brake fluid is every 2 years.

As I said from a UOA standpoint there is NO reason to change oil at one year! It is a waste of resources and the oil is fine.

 

Again your bike do what you will but oil does not need changed on a yearly schedule and brake fluid need a flush at 2 years no sooner.

 

Interesting they do not have a service interval for coolant. That should be done every 3 years without fail.

 

Now let me ask you all, when did you flush the brakes in your car? How about your antifreeze? Your clutch slave cylinder? How about change your manual transmission fluid? Or even you automatic transmission fluid? Exactly!

 

You all do what you want, but for what oil cost I will change at 6000 miles and get my UOA. I will flush my brakes and clutch at 2 years. I will change my coolant at 3 years.

 

YMMV

 

Morning LAF

 

I think my mileage does vary from what you say--

 

Do you have any confirmation on that 2 year brake fluid change?

 

My BMW RSD (dealers service manual) shows initial brake fluid change at 1 year THEN every 2 years after that. (you have anything official showing differently??????)

 

 

[John in VA]

...

Now let me ask you all, when did you flush the brakes in your car? How about your antifreeze? Your clutch slave cylinder? How about change your manual transmission fluid? Or even you automatic transmission fluid? Exactly!...

YMMV

 

My car manual tranny doesn't share engine oil (plus wethead has wet clutch and car doesn't) so you're talking apples/oranges as far as lubrication duties. Btw my car manual tranny and diff oil get changed every 60k regardless (although mfr says no need ever).

[LAF]

Regardless of what you say 0il does not need changed on a yearly basis. This is proven by a UOA.

 

You can do as you please your bike your money.

 

As far as a car. Do you change your brake fluid every 2 years? Do you flush your antifreeze every 3 years? I do!

 

I have change my manual transmission oil to synthetic with less than 1000 miles on my 6 speed. It shifts much smoother and is a joy in the PA winter with no stiffness or much effort.

 

You got me on the clutch being wet.

 

That being said you are doing nothing for your bike changing oil in a year.

 

You are just wasting resources, and your money.

 

Not going to argue as Science does not lie, read the UOA, do one of your own. But please bring more to the table then your opinion when you want to give advise on when to change oil, as it is not yearly.