paRTy Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 When changing wheels, is it necessary to use Blue loctite on the front caliper bolts, 17mm axle screw and clamping/pinch bolts when reinstalling them? Manual doesn't say too, but curious if others do for peace of mind, etc. Or, just not needed if torqued properly? thanks. Link to comment
RSH Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Not sure if I am correct on this, but I use assembly lube or silver/copper anti-size on those components, as there is so much potential for corrosion over the long term in that area. (just a tiny amount) Then torque them down to spec. Hope that is the right info. Ride Safe. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 When changing wheels, is it necessary to use Blue loctite on the front caliper bolts, 17mm axle screw and clamping/pinch bolts when reinstalling them? Manual doesn't say too, but curious if others do for peace of mind, etc. Or, just not needed if torqued properly? Morning paRTy If it isn't in the manual then you don't need to use Locktite. Personally, I usually use blue on the caliper bolts & pinch bolts as that seals the threads & keeps moisture from wicking into the thread area. I'm not sure that is needed but I have been doing that for about ever on the BMW bikes with no side effects & no seized bolts. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Not sure if I am correct on this, but I use assembly lube or silver/copper anti-size on those components, as there is so much potential for corrosion over the long term in that area. (just a tiny amount) Then torque them down to spec. Hope that is the right info. Morning RSH Question is: what is the (correct) torque spec when the bolt threads are lubricated? Adding any type of lubricant to the bolt threads changes the bolt torque requirement-- if you are lubricating those bolts & the torque spec is given for dry threads then you are definitely over-torqueing them. How much over-torque is up for debate but they are definitely being over-torqued if lubricated. Added: individual torque specs vary by usage, bolt grade, & material but the below chart will give you some idea of the possible over-torque of lubricated vs dry. Link to comment
RSH Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 I did not know that. I just torque to what the manual says - but as I go, feel how the bolts set-in, kind of unscientific I guess. So maybe its is not a good idea, what I am doing? And use blue loctite on that area. I intend to keep my present bikes for a long time, so that is great advice. I sure do not want galling or stretched out bolts later in the bikes life. I thought I once read the caliper bolts might get a little warm and loctite just gets lose or dissipates somehow, but if you have had success for years, then I am going to take your advice and change to that system. Thanks for the info, this forum helps keep my bikes running very well! Thanks again, I just read the chart you included, great info! Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Morning RSH If you want to keep lubricating the threads then you could (thoroughly) clean & dry the internal/external threads. Then torque bolts to specs-- then mark the bolt head positions using a paint pen (or similar). Then remove the bolts one at a time & lubricate & re-install. Then use a torque wrench to re-tighten until the paint lines line back up. Recording the amount of torque required to line the paint lines back should give you the correct lubricated torque values (write those down for future reference) Link to comment
paRTy Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 thanks for the replies....appreciate the help. Link to comment
walton66 Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 DR, when you refer to a lubed torque value are you considering the Loctite as a lubricant or were you referring to something else like assembly lube or anti-seize. thanks. Link to comment
WBinDE Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 JVB (a frequent visitor on ADVRider) has a list of WetHead Torque Values derived from the BMW service DVD. He also sells a maintenance DVD from his website http://www.jvbproductions.com/ Link to comment
realshelby Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 DR, when you refer to a lubed torque value are you considering the Loctite as a lubricant or were you referring to something else like assembly lube or anti-seize. thanks. I don't pretend to be dirtrider, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express a while back..... Yes, loctite is considered a lubricant when addressing torque values. While there is a difference in EXACTLY how much a certain lubricant effects torque values, Loctite is certainly able to lubricate the threads enough that it needs to be accounted for. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 DR, when you refer to a lubed torque value are you considering the Loctite as a lubricant or were you referring to something else like assembly lube or anti-seize. thanks. Evening bwpsg42 This question has come up numerous times in the engineering department where I work. There are a lot of different opinions on this. However, Loctite suggests that there be no change in the torque values when using Loctite. (our Loctite rep says to just use the normal dry torque values) Unlike grease, oil, assembly lube, & anti-seize products Loctite is not that slippery under torque load. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.