Owner of a Salvage 90th Annv. in Oregen.

[Froggy]

Trying to find the history of this bike. I was told by dealer history is deleted when salvaged.

It was titled in Oregen and has 23,000 miles on it. Damage was to bottom of engine around drain plug with some right side damage.

Thanks

[szurszewski]

I don't know how to go about this from a paper trail standpoint, but there are only a few dealers here in Oregon. I'd be happy to go into the one here in Portland and ask if was their sale, but I'd need something more to go on. Not really sure what that would be as I doubt saying, hey do you remember selling a bike with VIN # xxxxxxx?, would do much good.

 

Thoughts?

josh

 

 

[Tri750]

You need the last 7 digits of the VIN and a cooperative service manager or parts guy.

They plug the VIN in and that tells them who the selling dealer was.

That can lead to service records from dealers in the surrounding area.

 

Let them know you don't want the purchasers name, but just the service history.

 

Sometimes they help, sometimes they won't.

 

As far as deleting records of salvage bikes, I'm suspicious as in Ca. anyway, the Bureau of Automotive Repair requires repair facilities to keep records for X number of years.

 

Plus, how would a dealer know what bike is salvaged ? There is no notification given.

 

Even if said bike was towed to that dealership, the insurance adjuster came there, totaled the bike, I can't see anyone running to the computer to purge the records to be efficient .

 

As parts manager if a customer asked, I would give out the info by slicing off the top of the re-printed RO showing customer info, or dictating the services done to the new owner.

My service manager would flat refuse to do it.

 

Odd, as if there were holes on the service history, we (he) would stand ready to get the work from the new owner.

 

 

 

[Froggy]

So I guess my dealer was giving me a load of crap. To bad, I have bought some expensive gear there. I even told them I needed the info so I could do the services that had not been done. Oh, yea, the dealers name is Gateway BMW of MO. MIGHT as well give the folks out there the good, bad, and ugly of service I get from them.

[Bernie]

Well, regardless, it wouldn't hurt to repeat some of the routine services, like oil changes, air filter, new alternator belt, brake flush and rear drive and transmission oil changes. As for valves, the CamHeads are very easy on the valves, and looking at the valves and cam followers would be a good idea one way or the other.

It sounds like a good weekends worth of work. Maybe you should try to organize a tech day for your area, you may get all kinds of free help.

[Tri750]

So I guess my dealer was giving me a load of crap. To bad, I have bought some expensive gear there. I even told them I needed the info so I could do the services that had not been done. Oh, yea, the dealers name is Gateway BMW of MO. MIGHT as well give the folks out there the good, bad, and ugly of service I get from them.

 

Well don't fall on your sword over it.

It's only 23k miles.

You should ask another employee of the dealership the same question.

By "my dealer" did you ask the guy who makes the coffee or the dealer principle?

Normally, the principle (owner) is the least informed on the day to day stuff. Ask one of the guys who actually work. A service manager or a parts guy with a few gray hairs if you get him between episodes of turning water into wine.

(Parts guy here)

 

[Froggy]

Ok so I will remove the sword I had talked to parts, who then asked the service department who then told me about deletion of service history.

I have already purchased supplies, but this time not at my dealer. You really think the belt needs replacing on a 13' with only 23,000 thou?

[Bernie]

Froggy, I think it is recommended to be changed every 24,000 miles, as there are no adjustments. It's pretty simple.

[MikeB60]

Mine was surprisingly worn at 24,000. On my 2006 at 36000 it really didn't need to be changed. Not sure the why there was a difference but I would recommend changing it out.

[Tri750]

Yes, the belts will or can break right on schedule.

Amazingly accurate.

You have a new bike there, please don't start cheaping out at the beginning of its life.

 

[tallman]

Take your VIN #.

Contact the mothership.

Tell them you are checking for outstanding recalls/service history as your locl dealer won't give you the time of day.

Here a slvage bike gets a salvage title.

Still in system, just as a salvage.

Good luck.

[Don_Eilenberger]

Mine was surprisingly worn at 24,000. On my 2006 at 36000 it really didn't need to be changed. Not sure the why there was a difference but I would recommend changing it out.

 

The belt size (length) was changed sometime around 2010 or so. It was made shorter (and much harder to get off/on.) I suspect there were some instances of the old belt slipping under heavy electrical loads and either shredding, or simply not charging adequately.

 

Whatever the reason - the belt was made shorter and the service/replacement interval was also shortened up. Your 2006 had the original longer belt - and indeed - they did seem to last almost forever (I changed the one on my '07 on schedule, and the first few times, before the part change, it would be difficult to tell the difference between the old and new belts.)

 

As Fred Harvey used to say "Now you know the rest of the story.."

[Tri750]

His 3rd cousin Paul starting saying it too and it finally caught on.

Good day.

[Froggy]

I remember cussing as I tried to get the cover off my 02RT to replace the belt, is the 10-13 as difficult?

[Bernie]

No, unless you have a Ohlins front shock, then you have to remove the bottom bolt of the shock.

4 screws (torx) and a little wiggling.

There are no adjustments for the belt, not like on the OilHeads.

You also need a 12 or 14 inch adjustable wrench.

[Froggy]

Wait, no adjustment?? How do you get the belt on, pry it on alla vw beetle?

[Bernie]

No, you first remove the spark plugs.

Then you apply forward pressure on the belt with a screwdriver as you turn the bottom pulley with the 12" or 14" crescent wrench in a clockwise rotation, viewed from the front of the bike. This is the same rotation as the motor does, DO NOT TURN IT BACKWARDS. I don't know what will happen, but it could get expensive.

Once you have the old belt of, you verify that the new belt has the same part number as your old one.

Then you hook all the grooves of the belt on to the top pulley, make sure you get all of the grooves set on the top pulley. Get some extra light to see up there.

Then with the belt started on the bottom pulley, you turn the bolt/nut on the bottom pulley from the left bottom side of the bike.

You have to apply rearward pressure on the handle of the crescent wrench as you rotate the wrench from the left side to the bottom right side, (exhaust pipe to exhaust pipe).

The rearward pressure on the handle will prevent the belt from sliding of the pulley and giving it no other choice then to climb onto the bottom pulley.

Some folks slide thin plasticstrips between the bottom pulley and the belt, to ease the movement.

But I found it is easier to use a adjustable wrench, instead of a socket or box end wrench, because the straight handle can be used to apply pressure on the belt, without getting your fingers pinched or cut off.

So a word of caution, do not try to push on the belt with your hand as you are turning the pulley by wrench or possible having someone turn the back wheel, while you are trying to force the belt on by hand, you will definitely pinch your hand or finger or worse.

Or buy the factory tool from your dealer, to install and remove the belt.

 

[Rogerl]

Or you could use this tool to put the belt on. I made a part very similar to this and used it on my R1200R and my friends R1200RT and it works great. I bought a socket to put on the nut on the engine pulley.

 

http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/tools-and-sales-aids/professional-tools/microv-stretch-fit-belt-installation-tool

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Belt-Installation-Tool-GATES-91030-/181819318874?hash=item2a5546a25a:g:rj8AAOSwd0BVu31b&vxp=mtr

 

 

Roger L

[Froggy]

Thanks for info.

[6speedTi]

I purchased a 33mm socket. Works great. Old belt rolled off no problem. New belt rolled right on utilizing the socket. It was too easy I had a crazy idea of doing it again for the hell of it. Well not really but the socket is easier than a large adjustable wrench.

[Don_Eilenberger]

Once you have the old belt of, you verify that the new belt has the same part number as your old one.

I'd have to disagree with this recommendation. BMW changed the length of the belt for a reason - in this case - slippage and inadequate charging.

 

I'd suggest ordering a belt using your VIN# from your friendly local dealer. That way you get the latest one BMW has spec'd. Many of the aftermarket sites haven't caught on to the change, or seem to be randomly picking different length belts to sell.

 

The factory tool is unnecessary and outlandishly expensive. The Gates tool shown above works just fine - best price I found about 4 years go was on Amazon. About $11 and free Prime shipping.

[szurszewski]

Amazon has it for $9 now - deflation?