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Methods for finding brake fluid leak?


Dances_With_Wiener_Dogs

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Dances_With_Wiener_Dogs

Is there any dye that I could add to trace the source of a brake fluid leak? Maybe a fluorescent dye that I could then illuminate with a blacklight?

 

I have a tiny leak where I can't identify the source. If it's coming from the piston, I can rebuild that. If it's coming from the lines, I can swap those for stainless. I just can't ID the source!

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Joe Frickin' Friday

Not speaking from experience, but the procedure I've heard for finding very slow engine oil leaks is as follows:

 

Scrub everything clean with very soapy water and a soft brush.

 

Rinse with copious amounts of clean water (don't blast with a pressure wand!).

 

Dry thoroughly with a hair dryer.

 

Dust with some kinda powder (talc, baby, flour, etc.).

 

Wait overnight and look for a localized damp spot; that should isolate the leak for you.

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Dances_With_Wiener_Dogs
Wait overnight and look for a localized damp spot; that should isolate the leak for you.

I wonder if the brake system needs to be pressurized to work? Would there be any damage to tying the lever to tha handgrip overnight?

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Steve,

 

To follow-up with what Mitch said, instead of dusting the suspected area with powder go buy some spray on anti-persperent. I use the cheapo Arrid stuff, clean the area with soap/water-rinse and spray the area litely with rubbing alcohol - this will disperse the residual water in the area. If you have an air compressor, blow some air across this and then spray on your anti-persperent, give it a nice coat, like you are painting the area. It will dry in seconds and a wet spot will appear where the fluid is leaking.

 

This trick works great with any seeping liquid, I have found fuel leaks on aircraft tanks to water leaks on fittings.

 

Good Luck thumbsup.gif

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Wait overnight and look for a localized damp spot; that should isolate the leak for you.

I wonder if the brake system needs to be pressurized to work? Would there be any damage to tying the lever to tha handgrip overnight?

 

No damage at all, in fact this can firm up the braking sysytem. I also use a locking brake lever clamp when travelling on ferries (up to 8 hour crossings) to act as a parking brake.

 

Cya, Andy thumbsup.gif

 

Cya, Andy

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No damage at all, in fact this can firm up the braking system.
I'm curious about this part, care to elaborate?
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No damage at all, in fact this can firm up the braking system.
I'm curious about this part, care to elaborate?

 

I don't know how it works, just that after locking the brakes on for some time there is a firmer action in the brakes. It may be that the air is forced into solution in the fluid by the pressure, or it may just an illusion. I have however noticed it on more than one bike - but not the RT with its power brakes.

 

Cya, Andy thumbsup.gif

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don't know how it works, just that after locking the brakes on for some time there is a firmer action in the brakes. It may be that the air is forced into solution in the fluid by the pressure, or it may just an illusion. I have however noticed it on more than one bike - but not the RT with its power brakes.

Maybe the brake line hoses get stretched and stay in the expanded high pressure position condition. so when you hit the brakes the lines don't need to balloon out prior to full pressure, IE it takes out the give in the lines. Just a thought

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I have used this method many times in the past in an effort to get a decent brake on my old airhead,pump up as hard as possible than tie off and leave overnight.I believe as the master cylinder valve is partially open any air bubbles in the lines gradually work up into the cylinder,i have even used this method on a couple of cars that had soft brakes thumbsup.gif

 

Regards Del

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