Curt Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 I'm still trying to figure out some srange behavior on my rear wheel braking and so far can not find any problems with the ABS (fault codes, sensor gaps, brake pads & disc & fluid ar all O.K.). Is there a fuse on the 1100 I can pull to disable the ABS completely to see if the problem may be an unrelated mechanical issue? I see nothing specific in the Haynes or owners manuals on this. Thanks. Link to comment
Curt Posted March 6, 2006 Author Share Posted March 6, 2006 I forgot to mention, it's a '96 RT. Link to comment
smiller Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 I believe that on the 1100's you can temporarily disable ABS by pressing the starter button with the key off, then turning the key on (while holding the start button.) This will cause the ABS to fault when the bike starts and it will remain inactive until the next (proper) start. What is the strange rear braking behavior you are experiencing? Link to comment
bmwmick Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Curt, I believe if you pull Relay #8 you will 'kill' the ABS brains but to totally remove 12V from the ABS Unit, you need to lift the tank and remove the ABS relay that resides inside the slide-off cover of the Hydro Unit itself. Mick Link to comment
KDeline Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 I believe that on the 1100's you can temporarily disable ABS by pressing the starter button with the key off, then turning the key on (while holding the start button.) This will cause the ABS to fault when the bike starts and it will remain inactive until the next (proper) start. What is the strange rear braking behavior you are experiencing? That is how you do it. Link to comment
Mulepick Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 KD, I gotta see that avatar up close. Can you mail me a copy at Mulepick@aol.com? Tks, Bob Link to comment
Curt Posted March 7, 2006 Author Share Posted March 7, 2006 Tried it. Thanks for the tip on disabling the ABS. With the ABS disabled, it does the same thing : any rear braking more than moderate at anything over parking lot speeds causes the rear wheel to lot and slide. Tried it several time this evening, each time locking up the rear and sliding a bit to the right. It would be fun if it weren't a problem. I suspect a failure of the rear ABS sensor, but no fault codes showing..... I'l check the sensor gap again and search for a way to test the sensor. I hate to just replace parts without knowing the problem. Link to comment
smiller Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 If it does it with the ABS disabled then it isn't the ABS sensor, or probably anything else to do with the ABS. Is the rear brake piston sticking in the caliper perhaps? Does the brake disc get very hot even when you aren't using the rear brake? Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 I'm with smilller. What exactly was the symptom that caused you to start troubleshooting? What have you done so for to troubleshoot and what were the results? Link to comment
tomk99r11 Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 The rear wheel ABS sensor is around $100. Make sure the gap is set right and that the cable has not been crimped or compromised in any way. Also, check to be certain that everything has been bled correctly. Good luck. Link to comment
Curt Posted March 7, 2006 Author Share Posted March 7, 2006 Well, I figure since the rear wheel will lock up without the ABS on (which I would expect to be able to do), and it does exactly the same thing with the ABS engaged, it must be that the ABS isn't working. No problem with the caliper pistons or disc drag. I replaced the rear pads and bled the brakes in case there might have been some air in the system. No change. At least it's still winter around here.... Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Well, I figure since the rear wheel will lock up without the ABS on (which I would expect to be able to do), and it does exactly the same thing with the ABS engaged, it must be that the ABS isn't working. No problem with the caliper pistons or disc drag. I replaced the rear pads and bled the brakes in case there might have been some air in the system. No change. At least it's still winter around here.... OK, so the symptom was that the rear wheel locked even though the ABS was supposed to be working. Is that accurate? What happens with the ABS lighs on the dash? When you turn the key on, both lights should flash simultaneously. When you start rolling the first time, there should be a "ker-chunk" sound followed by the ABS lights on the dash going out. Is that what happens on your bike? Link to comment
smiller Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 I think we misunderstood your original problem to be that of the rear brake locking too easily but instead it sounds like your concern is not how easily the rear brake locks, but only that ABS isn't preventing it? If so then check out ABS initialization per Russell's instructions and let us know the result. You should be able to hear the self-test ("ker-chunk") when you first start out, and afterwards no ABS lights should be flashing. Link to comment
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