Front wheel removal on R1200RT

[semimojo]

I need to remove my front wheel to have it repaired (rim straightened), as I mentioned in my recent Front wheel options thread.

 

It looks like I will need to remove the front fender, remove two bolts for each caliper to get them off the brake discs, loosen the pinch bolts on each side of the axle, and remove the axle itself.

 

I think the black line that goes down to the hub on the left side is the speedo cable. Does that need to come off?

 

Does anything else need to come off?

 

Are any special tools required to get the axle out?

 

Is the center stand sufficient support (i.e., will the bike sit back on the rear wheel when I unload the front?)

 

Any other helpful tips or tricks for front wheel removal? It looks pretty straightforward, but you never know.

 

Does anyone know what the axle, pinch bolts, and caliper bolt torque should be for reassembly?

[Rob L]

That black wire on the left side is ABS sensor. Remove the screw and pull it out. You will break it if you try to remove the wheel with it in. I did! I tie the rear of the bike down when I remove the front wheel. Bun

[duckbubbles]

Your owners manual tells you everything you need to know. Torques, disassembly and reassembly.

 

Frank

[realshelby]

You will need to remove the rotors to get the wheel straighten as well!

[duckbubbles]

You will need to remove the rotors to get the wheel straighten as well!

And since they are retained with a locking compound, you need to apply heat at each bolt to get the compound to release.

 

Frank

[semimojo]

Your owners manual tells you everything you need to know. Torques, disassembly and reassembly.

 

Oops! It did not occur to me to look in my owner's manual. How embarrassing. Thank you, Frank.

[semimojo]

You will need to remove the rotors to get the wheel straighten as well!

 

You will need to remove the rotors to get the wheel straighten as well!

And since they are retained with a locking compound, you need to apply heat at each bolt to get the compound to release.

 

I suspected as much, and that was going to be my next question. Thank you, Terry and Frank.

[semimojo]

That black wire on the left side is ABS sensor. Remove the screw and pull it out. You will break it if you try to remove the wheel with it in. I did! I tie the rear of the bike down when I remove the front wheel. Bun

 

Thanks for the warning on that!

[Motobricker]

If you remove the two screws on the rear of the front fender you can get the tire out without removing the fender. I use a jack under the front of motor to elevate the front wheel, as the center stand is leveraged to put weight on front tire.

[semimojo]

I figured if I put some weight in my top case, it would bias the weight toward the rear. Floor jack under the front of the motor sounds like a good idea anyway, Bob. Thanks.

[hopz]

I have used a stack of short 2X4's to block-up under the front of the motor... keeps the bike from rolling off.... and keeps the rear wheel on the ground

 

I can also recommend putting the bike in a low gear... if you pull the front wheel too vigorously... it could roll off the stand.

[duckbubbles]

I figured if I put some weight in my top case, it would bias the weight toward the rear. Floor jack under the front of the motor sounds like a good idea anyway, Bob. Thanks.

Just jack the front wheel up enough to get the wheel out. Keep an eye on the centerstand's left arm and the rear tire so it doesn't come in contact with the ground too heavily. It will cause the bike to become unstable.

 

Frank

[WBinDE]

It never hurts to tie the centerstand in place so it can't fold up on you and ruin your day.

[lkchris]

[And since they are retained with a locking compound, you need to apply heat at each bolt to get the compound to release.

 

This will then mean the official procedures will likely require replacing--not reusing--the screws, as new ones will come with pre-applied locking compound.

 

I'm not sure of this, but could look it up in my Service DVD--which is something anyone doing anything to their motorcycle should have.

[Nesbocaj]

It is also not the worst idea to put a locating mark on each rotor to allow them to be put back in place exactly as they were on the rim. Probably not critical in any way, but usually good practice.

[semimojo]

I'm not sure of this, but could look it up in my Service DVD--which is something anyone doing anything to their motorcycle should have.

 

That sounds like a good thing to have. Where can one purchase a Service DVD?

[lkraus]

I'm not sure of this, but could look it up in my Service DVD--which is something anyone doing anything to their motorcycle should have.

 

That sounds like a good thing to have. Where can one purchase a Service DVD?

 

Any BMW dealer, local or online. BMW part number 01598555666 (wethead version), about $110, requires Windows.

 

Savings in labor costs and parts-not-mangled-by-ignorance will quickly pay for it.

[Rob L]

You could buy this

http://www.jvbproductions.com/Wethead.html

Covers most maintenance on the new bikes. His website also has videos on plastic removal etc.

[semimojo]

Thank you, Larry and Rob. I'll start with the jvbproductions one that you posted, Rob. Looks like it'll be worth it.

[Effjay]

[And since they are retained with a locking compound, you need to apply heat at each bolt to get the compound to release.

 

This will then mean the official procedures will likely require replacing--not reusing--the screws, as new ones will come with pre-applied locking compound.

I'm not sure of this, but could look it up in my Service DVD--which is something anyone doing anything to their motorcycle should have.

As posted on the OP's original thread, I dented my front wheel recently and ultimately chose to have it replaced. The service writer told me those countersunk screws (P/N 34117700989) do need to be replaced since they are "stretch fasteners" ($4.89 each x 10 screws = $48.90).