Install HID Lights on a R1150RT?

[ruok]

I'm not particularly happy with the light output from my R1150RT, especially the low-beam. The high-beam is pretty good, but for obvious reasons I can't leave it on all the time. Switched out the low-beam H7 bulb with a Sylvania Silverstar and there was a slight improvement, but not anything close to the improvement I'd hoped for.

 

Without going into a lot of detail I'd rather not install outboard PIAA-type lights.

 

I ran into a guy on a Harley that just converted his bike to HID and the power output was unbelieveable (6000K--nice, light blue tint) . Made the low-beam on my R1150RT look like bright parking lights in comparison . To me, HID seems like the way to go--2 or 3 times the light output, 30% lower power consumption & 10x longevity.

 

Anyhow, until recently most HID conversion kits I've seen have been very expensive ($500 plus); however, I've noticed the prices of HID conversion kits have dopped considerably on eBay. I've contacted a couple of sellers on eBay that are willing to sell me a single ballast/starter and H7 HID bulb for approx. $125. One even said his ballast is the same size as a pack of cigarettes! At the moment, I'm thinking about only installing HID on my low-beam. I want to keep my headlight modulator operational. It's my understanding the typical HID ballast cannot charge and discharge fast enough to work with a headlight modulator.

 

An HID conversion appears to be a pretty straight forward process. I would think the major concerns would be where to securely mount the ballast, possible need for a relay and heavier wire to route power to the ballast from the battery (not sure if the stock wiring can handle the initial surge to charge the ballast), and the water-proof routing of the wire from the H7 HID bulb to the ballast.

 

So, kinda curious if anybody has done the HID conversion on their R1150RT? Any observations, opinions, things to watch for, recommendations, etc.?

 

Thanks!

[skinny_tom (aka boney)]

There are a few of us who have. First, make sure that you only want brighter light, not more of it. If you don't like the pattern of the stock low, don't spend your money on an HID. It won't change "where" is lit, it will only make it brighter- to the point that I don't even turn the fog lights on anymore- they don't make much difference.

 

I have the speakers out of my bike, so I zip tied the ballast to that bracket. I also installed a relay. There's a write up somewhere on the board (about a year ago?) but basically, without making to much modifications, you can use the headlight '+' lead to switch the relay by pulling it through the same grommet that the HID leads go in through. Oh, you'll have to drill a hole in the cover for the headlight access on the back of it. $125 is inexpensive.

[TonyS]

The first night I rode my 04 RT I started out with the high beam. After several miles a car came the opposite direction so I dropped to low beam. I thought I had turned off the headlight! (My old 1100R had a great headlight.) I added motolights mounted low on the forks. They throw light about as far as the high beam with a much greater spread. I never turn them off and oncoming cars do not flash me. When I turned on the high beam all I got was a little spot of light on the road barely beyond the 35w motos. Install an HID in place of the hight beam and you'll light up the road eight seconds ahead of you when you're riding 55-60 mph. I wish the reflector let more high beam go to the sides but you can look at it's shape and tell that's not going to happen. I paid about $250 for half a 4500K kit; very white, very worth it. The wire that feeds the existing high beam connects to the relay that fires the HID so the high/low switch function the same.

[DEF]

I sold HID kits for about a year. The 4500K color is the best and brightest. Also, $125 is a good price. Next, remember there is also an igniter with most HID systems. It is smaller that the ballast and mounts easily in many locations on your model.

 

The load shed relay can handle the brief power surge at strike so, most BMW owers do not instal a relay.

 

Good luck with your installation. You'll be pleased.

 

If there are others at this site who are interested in HID kits, I have some H4 and H1 kits left over. They are new, in the box.

[steve404]

I use a 100w Philips Vision Plus for high beam and a $300 UK purchased Philips balast HID 4300 K unit. I only wish I had done this earlier.

[EffBee]

In our experience as a dealer who sells HID lighting (after an extensive search and evaluation), there are several things to consider before purchasing. First, of course, is quality. While $125 sounds like a great deal, our experience tells us that a quality system for less than $300 is unlikely.

 

By quality, I don't just mean long-lasting. And HID light works very differently than a halogen light. However, just because you're replacing an H7 with an H7 does not guarantee success. H7 (or H4, H3, H1) refers to not only the size of the bulb but also to the base plate and how it fits into the headlight assembly.

 

Additonally, and very importantly, the bulb itself must be designed and assembled in such a way as to position the absolute center of the light source EXACTLY where the same center was on the bulb it is replacing. Even the slightest difference in location can substantially change the mathematical formula (Cartesian mathematics, if memory serves) upon which the parabolic reflector was designed. Change the location of the source and you can drastically, (and almost always detrimentally) change the light pattern, regardless of how much more power an HID has.

 

Therefore, it is imperative that in addition to longevity, that an HID replacement system be manufactured to very exacting tolerances. And these types of tolerances usually come at a price.

 

Can you get a brighter light for $125? Certainly. Is it a light that fully utilizes and maximizes the reflective pattern designed into your parabola? At that price, it's very questionable.

 

Finally, while consuming less power once ignited (usually 35w vs. 55w that a haolgen bulb consumes), HID bulbs run quite hot. Make sure your headlight assembly has adequate ventilation. And don't forget that an HID light will come with a ballast box (somewhere between the size of one and two packs of cigarettes) and an igniter box (about the size of a pocket matchbox, although sometimes it's built into the ballast box). You will have to find space for these items very close to your headlight assembly.

 

Best of luck and let us know how it turns out. Not just brighter, but brighter, usable, and non-offending.

[ruok]

Thanks to everyone for their helpful replies . I'm getting the impression I'm on track as far as the installation process. There doesn't appear to be much issue taken with the type of ballast used. However, Fernando Belair brought up a very important point--that an HID conversion bulb must have the same filament "position" as the original halogen bulb it is replacing or your beam pattern is going to change from stock. I guess it would behoove me to consider purchasing an HID kit with a name-brand bulb. Found some kits that use Philips HID bulbs for about $200. Anybody have any experience with Philips? I'm thinking these kits may be a better bet than going with one of the less-expensive kits on eBay with no-name bulbs.

 

Before signing out, I was wondering if someone could recommend a non-mechanical, solid state relay that can handle the 20 or 30 amp surge from an HID ballast on startup?

 

Thanks again!

[beemerman2k]

Fernando: Ive been thinking about one of these for my R1100RT. I know we talked briefly about this at your dealership, and at the time you felt like my PIAA lights were probably the most cost effective solution. They probably are, but I'm still thinking about an HID headlight. A few questions for you:

 

- how much does Brown BMW charge for an HID light kit plus installation for a 2000 R1100RT?

 

- do I lose high beam capability? If so, no problem as I do have the PIAA 1100XX's, but will I pass state vehicle inspection without formal highbeams?

[USAF1]

I did my installation after getting the complete set-up from HID-ONLINE with the H-7 and the H-9 bulbs. The ballast /igniter are one package, with the relay and fuse included. The wiring was complete....all one had to do was hook up to the battery + and - terminals....drill a hole in the back side of the lowbeam cover (I have the LT....so that may not apply on your bike) hook up the wiring as shown in the instructions....and throw everything back together again (ok, ok...it took a BIT longer than I'm talking of course... ). I would not recommend getting any bulb over 4100K, because you start getting color then...and less WHITE light.... The cost? I went thru another web sites initial offer, and got the whole package for 200 British Pounds.....about $350 at the time. The quality and quantity of light is just unbelieveable!! Sea Marshal already had his low beam set-up...and got so excited over my Hi-beam....he went out and got it too!! (It cost him a bit more, of course..... )

 

Took 3 days to get the kit here from the Mother Country...

I'd highly recommend them........

 

Pat

[powerman]

non-mechanical, solid state relay that can handle the 20 or 30 amp surge

, you probably could find one but it would be expensive. i think a good auto type sealed relay would be fine. go for the 30amp.

Ken please keep posting , I'm interesed in doing the same thing in the near future, I was thinking of doing both high and low beam. do you think there is enough room to install both bulbs?

[flyingreg]

Before signing out, I was wondering if someone could recommend a non-mechanical, solid state relay that can handle the 20 or 30 amp surge from an HID ballast on startup?

You can get a superior waterproof, race quality relay from Centech Wire for a small fee. I use them for my power applications and they are bullet proof, extrememly well made right here in the USA. But honestly, I think an additional relay and harness is overkill. The stock wiring should handle the load. I don't think a separate harness for the HID install is needed.

[ruok]

non-mechanical, solid state relay that can handle the 20 or 30 amp surge

, you probably could find one but it would be expensive. i think a good auto type sealed relay would be fine. go for the 30amp.

Ken please keep posting , I'm interesed in doing the same thing in the near future, I was thinking of doing both high and low beam. do you think there is enough room to install both bulbs?

Eric,

 

Still researching everything. Ref the power relay, Radio Shack has a "automotive" 30amp SPST relay that should work for $6.29.

 

I'm seriously looking at an H7 motorcycle conversion kit from www.xenodepot.com for $199 (plus $25 shipping). Their kit comes with a rebased (see below) Philips HID bulb. The ballast is a bit smaller than a typical automotive ballast (3" x 3.5" x .8"). Have to use a separate igniter/starter which I believe is about an inch or so square. They also include a (fused??) relay harness to power the ballast directly from the battery. All in all, doesn't seem like a bad kit for the money and Xenondepot is good about answering their email inquiries promptly.

 

FWIW, I've found there is no such thing as an H3 or H7 HID bulb per se. The HID aftermarket companys purchase OEM HID bulbs (either a D2S and D2R from Philips, GE, etc.) and have them "rebased" so they can be used in OEM "halogen" applications (H1, H3, H7, etc.). The quality/precision of the "rebase" process determines whether you retain your OEM beam pattern, not the actual HID bulb itself.

 

As for the actual installation, a previous poster said he mounted his ballasts behind the dash, where the radio speakers are normally mounted. Sounds like a great spot--definitely plenty of room for two ballasts (one on each side). Of course, if you use your speakers then it's going to require further creative engineering.

 

I know there's some debate as to whether it's really necessary to use a relay with your HID lights. Yes, it's more work, but in the event the ballast or starter/igniter shorts (or draws too much current for whatever reason) you're fully protected (assuming you've properly fused the relay harness, of course). For me, it's just a little peace of mind since I don't think the low/high beam circuit on the R1150RT is fused (can't find a reference to these circuits being fused in the BMW service manual).

 

Ken

[PASSMORE]

Any chance we could get consensus from the 'experts' onthis and put together a kit for all of us who wish to do this?

[flyingreg]

I know there's some debate as to whether it's really necessary to use a relay with your HID lights. Yes, it's more work, but in the event the ballast or starter/igniter shorts (or draws too much current for whatever reason) you're fully protected (assuming you've properly fused the relay harness, of course). For me, it's just a little peace of mind since I don't think the low/high beam circuit on the R1150RT is fused (can't find a reference to these circuits being fused in the BMW service manual). Ken

The OEM circuit is fused and has a relay. The wiring can handle the start-up load of the HID's. The low beam has a fuse of its own. A two pole switch (toggle) should be added into the ground wire of the headlight circuit to allow you to break the power circuit prior to turning the key on. This preventss the HID from having to turn on, turn off, turn on, each time you start the engine. NO other adjustments should be needed. I Hope this helps you all.

[ruok]

I know there's some debate as to whether it's really necessary to use a relay with your HID lights. Yes, it's more work, but in the event the ballast or starter/igniter shorts (or draws too much current for whatever reason) you're fully protected (assuming you've properly fused the relay harness, of course). For me, it's just a little peace of mind since I don't think the low/high beam circuit on the R1150RT is fused (can't find a reference to these circuits being fused in the BMW service manual). Ken

The OEM circuit is fused and has a relay. The wiring can handle the start-up load of the HID's. The low beam has a fuse of its own. A two pole switch (toggle) should be added into the ground wire of the headlight circuit to allow you to break the power circuit prior to turning the key on. This preventss the HID from having to turn on, turn off, turn on, each time you start the engine. NO other adjustments should be needed. I Hope this helps you all.

Greg,

 

The BMW service manual I have doesn't have a schematic and the only references it makes to fuses or relays for lighting (with the exception of parking & indicator lighting) is the "lighting relay" and fuse 10 labeled as "fog lamp relay". On my R1150RT, the "fog lamp relay" fuse (fuse 10) and the "lighting relay" does not have any affect on the low/high beam circuitry--only the fog lamps. I also have a Clymer's manual for the R1150RT and I can't seem to find any fuses or relays in the low/high beam circuitry--only switches in the left & right grips. Do you know where the fuse(s) and relay(s) are located for the low & high beams? It's very possible I could have overlooked them on the Clymer schematic.

 

I'm not quite sure why one would want to have an independent switch for the HID's, unless you're referring to outboard PIAA-type HID's. Manually switching your low & high beams could put you in a position of unknowingly driving with your lights off during the daytime.

 

In any case, I get the impression you have HID's installed. Where did you mount the ballast(s) on your R1150RT? Did you drill a hole in the black access cover to route the wires for the low/high beam bulb or sandwich them between the cover and the housing?

 

Thanks!

 

Ken

[Davis]

I'm pretty sure the headlights aren't fused and the only relay is the load shed relay which disables a bunch of electrical load when the starter is engaged, but I don't have an 1150 so if I'm wrong and the headlight is fused and relayed, I'm hoping somebody will correct me.

 

I'm not quite sure why one would want to have an independent switch for the HID's

 

I think the logic is to save the HID from trying to "start" twice when you turn the bike on. You turn the ignition on and the ballast starts to fire the lamps, then as soon as you hit the starter button the load shed relay kills the power to the ballast. As the bike starts and you release the starter button, the ballast gets power again and starts the lamp. The switched ground would allow you to turn the HID ballast off until the bike is running, saving the cycling during the starting procedure. Does it make enough difference in the life to be worth the effort? I don't know, but I'm pretty sure that was Greg's logic.

[Eckhard Grohe]

I too am interested in a HID system on my R1100RT. From what I am reading it seems that the 1150 has a high beam lamp and a low beam lamp??? Does anyone have one of the lamps where the bulb is moved via solenoid to get high and low beams???

[George]

I fitted a Philips HID kit from nippynormans, here in the UK. It was easy to fit, and as I had no radio/speakers fitted I had loads of room to mount the Igniter/Ballast unit.

I used a SSR, and had no problems with it. The light output was awesome, and the cagers, seem to notice me a lot more.

Had to drill the light cover to accept the new bulb and wiring, just fitted a grommet to it, put some RTV on the seal, and off we went

The large cable tie, was a temporary solution, it was soon replaced by a stainless band.

[powerman]

I know there's some debate as to whether it's really necessary to use a relay with your HID lights. Yes, it's more work, but in the event the ballast or starter/igniter shorts (or draws too much current for whatever reason) you're fully protected (assuming you've properly fused the relay harness, of course). For me, it's just a little peace of mind since I don't think the low/high beam circuit on the R1150RT is fused (can't find a reference to these circuits being fused in the BMW service manual).

From what i have researched there is no fuse in line with the head lights, just the load shed relay, i would hate to have the harness act as a fuse. The biggest problem that i saw with the stock wiring harness, via the diagram, is that the ground wire is shared with the high, low and fog lights on 1150RT and is no larger than the hot side wire of each and is undersized. So at a min I would run a new ground connections. As far as using relays, the stock hot side wiring would probably work, but i would go with the relay and directly run back to the battery for the power circuit. It doesn’t take much voltage drop in 12 volt system to be a significant percentage

[hittman]

If you install a HID Kit on your 1150RT, Can you still use a head light modulator with the new bulbs?

[ruok]

If you install a HID Kit on your 1150RT, Can you still use a head light modulator with the new bulbs?

I don't have any first-hand experience trying to use a headlight modulator with an HID system; however, I do know the HID ballast takes about a 1/2 second or so to charge and ignite the HID bulb. Since most headlight modulators are ramping on-and-off several times a second, I rather doubt a typical HID ballast could keep up. I'm starting my HID conversion in a day or two (it's going to be much easier thanks to all the great info offered up in this thread). I'm only converting my low beam H7 bulb and leaving my headlight modulator connected to my stock halogen H3 high-beam bulb. The trade-off is being noticed/seen during the day with the headlight modulator along with a 2x-3x increase in low-beam lighting at night vs. 4x-6x increase in lighting for those times when I can drive with my high beams on at night. Me, I'll be doing a lot more driving during daytime hours than I would be driving during the night-time with my high-beams on--ymmv

[powerman]

Ken, I'm not sure, I haven't riden the bike in two months, but doesn't the low beam stay on all the time even when hi beam is on? so you would allways have the HID on.

[ruok]

Finally installed an HID H7 converion kit on my R1150RT (low beam only). Feel like I got a new lease on driving at night I used to always use fog lights at night--almost as a necessity. Using them with the new HID low beams they seem inconsequential.

 

Split the cost for an auto H7 kit with 2 H7 HID bulbs/ballasts (starter/igniter built-in) on eBay with another guy who also needed an H7. We paid $118 each including shipping. They're generic Taiwan/Chinese type units. For the money they seem to be a good value. The only obvious area where they cut corners were the cables. They're hard-wired into the ballast and only have connectors at the end of the cables. If the cable gets stressed and breaks right where it exits the ballast, you're SOL. Had to make an extra effort to make sure the cables were firmly anchored.

 

It took me most of an afternoon to install the kit with a power relay. Without the relay I'm sure I coulda shaved an hour or so off the install. In addition to removing the left side tupperware, also removed the windshield, cover assembly underneath the windshield, and dash cover to gain better access.

 

Installed the ballast behind the left side dash cover in the same general area where the speaker normally goes. Used a couple of stainless steel bands and some aluminum brackets for shims to securely mount the ballast. Wired a mini in-line fuse holder (a 10 amp fuse seems to be working fine) to the positive battery terminal and routed 12 gauge wire (placed inside of taped 1/4" insulated tubing) from the fuse to the headlight area (via the gas tank) where I mounted a Radio Shack 30 amp automobile power relay. Used the relay because I didn't want to take any chance of having my oem wiring damaged in the event of a short or high current draw. From what I gather the low/high beam circuit on the R1150RT is not fused. Ya gotta wonder why.

 

FWIW, the physical location of the "arc area" on the HID bulb matched up perfectly to the physical location of the stock H7 halogen bulb's filament (relative to the portion of the base which fits flush with the headlight housing). As a result, my low beam pattern after the conversion is the same as stock, except a helluva lot brighter. The overal beam pattern is symetrical, somewhat rectangular, with good peripheral coverage of the adjoining lanes when I'm on a freeway. Haven't noticed any hot spots, just full, even lighting. Haven't had anybody flash their high beams at me yet which is good.

 

Chose a 6000k bulb instead of the slightly higher output and whiter 4200k bulb. Would like to think the slight blue tint of the 6000k bulb makes me stand out in traffic a little which I think is a good thing. I can live with 10% less light output for a little better defensive posture. FWIW, I use a headlight modulator with my stock halogen H3 high beam during the daytime hours. The yellow (comparatively speaking) oem high-beam halogen bulb modulating against the very bright, light blue 6000k HID low-beam creates quite a visual contrast.

 

As long as I let the ballast totally charge before hitting the starter (takes 3 or 4 seconds to get maximum power to the bulb), the ballast retains enough of a charge to instantly switch the bulb full-on again right after the engine starts. If I don't let the ballast charge completely and interrupt it with the starter, sometimes the bulb won't ignite at all (stays off). In this case, I have to recycle the ballast again (turn the ignition off, then on again). Not sure if this would be applicable to other HID ballasts, but this is my experience with this one.

 

Bottom line: A DRAMATIC improvement over the stock H7 halogen bulb. Given a choice, I hope I never have to go back to standard halogen lighting.

[powerman]

Ken, Thanks for your post, sounds like a good mod.

Question would it be possible to change both low and high beem? I'm not sure what the size of the connection of the HID bulb versus size of stock bulb. I was originaly thinking of doing the high beam, but low beam maybe better like you did if you have to pick one to do.

[ruok]

Ken, Thanks for your post, sounds like a good mod.

Question would it be possible to change both low and high beem? I'm not sure what the size of the connection of the HID bulb versus size of stock bulb. I was originaly thinking of doing the high beam, but low beam maybe better like you did if you have to pick one to do.

Eric,

 

You could convert both your low and high beams to HID (mount one ballast in the left speaker opening and the other in the right). However, all the HID ballasts I've seen take a second or two to charge. If you convert your high beams to HID you will probably lose your ability to "flash" or warn other drivers with your high beams--the ballast won't be able to charge quick enough.

 

FWIW, my halogen high beam is still pretty effective even when used with the HID low beam. Although the high beam has a narrow beam throw and the light is not as well defined (intense?) as the HID, it still manages to light up the road an additional 30% to 40% directly in front of me (vs. just using HID low beam). Before I converted my low beam to HID, turning on my high beam doubled or tripled the light distance/throw in front of me--the halogen low beams were that bad!

 

Ref your question about the "size of the connection of the HID bulb versus size of the stock bulb". The bulb in my kit is about a 1/4"-3/8" longer than the H7 halogen bulb. Primarily due to an exposed, uninsulated wire that runs up the side and to the top of the HID bulb. The base is made of a plastic-type material formed in the same shape as the metal base on the original halogen. Two insulated wires exit the base of the bulb (permanently attached) and have to be connected to the ballast via two special high-voltage connectors.

 

Ken

[powerman]

all the HID ballasts I've seen take a second or two to charge. If you convert your high beams to HID you will probably lose your ability to "flash" or warn other drivers with your high beams--the ballast won't be able to charge quick enough

Ken, Good point, sounds like I should stay away from converting the high beem just for that reason (flash).

I thought having the high beem pattern with HID would really push the light down the road and eliminate any need for any extra external driving lights.

Thanks

[flyingreg]

Nice to hear you got the install the way you wanted it and all turned out OK. Good post and description of what you did.

It took me most of an afternoon to install the kit with a power relay. Without the relay I'm sure I coulda shaved an hour or so off the install.

The load shed relay on the RT is also the headlight relay. It does two jobs, cuts the power when you start the engine, allowing as much power as possible to be diverted to the starter motor. After you release the starter switch, the headlights receive power via the relay.

Wired a mini in-line fuse holder (a 10 amp fuse seems to be working fine) to the positive battery terminal and routed 12 gauge wire... From what I gather the low/high beam circuit on the R1150RT is not fused. Ya gotta wonder why.

The low beam and high beam each have their own fuse, low is #8, high is #9 in the RT fuse box.

As long as I let the ballast totally charge before hitting the starter (takes 3 or 4 seconds to get maximum power to the bulb), the ballast retains enough of a charge to instantly switch the bulb full-on again right after the engine starts. If I don't let the ballast charge completely and interrupt it with the starter, sometimes the bulb won't ignite at all (stays off). In this case, I have to recycle the ballast again (turn the ignition off, then on again). Not sure if this would be applicable to other HID ballasts, but this is my experience with this one.

If you install a simple ON/OFF switch in-line on the negative lead for the headlight circuit, you can have full control over the HID low beam, allowing you to save the life of the HID bulb over the many start cycles it will go through. To help you remember to turn the light ON before heading out on the road, do the following:

 

Purchase a switch that is lighted. Run a separate positive lead from for instance, the fog light switch, to the new switch. (The switch will have three terminals, one for the light and two to use to interrupt the HID negative wire.) Walmart or any autopart store has them in many colors for about 5 bucks. I use a red lighted switch. When the switch is on the OFF position, the switch will light and the ground circuit will be interrupted. When the switch is thrown in the opposite direction, the switch light will go out and the ground circuit will be completed, lighting the HID's. This is a simple addition to what you have done and will double the life of the HID bulb.

[ruok]

Greg,

 

>>>> Good post and description of what you did. <<<<

 

Thanks.

 

>>>> The low beam and high beam each have their own fuse, low is #8, high is #9 in the RT fuse box. <<<<

 

Just went out to the garage and pulled F8 and F9---you're right! The BMW service manual says F9 is not used and F8 is for the radio. Clymer's schematic said the same thing. I guess I coulda pulled each fuse one at a time beforehand to verify it. That's what I get for thinkin' I was readin' the gospel truth---from BMW & Clymer . . . in any case, a EE I know said I didn't totally waste my time installing the relay. Due to the high startup surge current, he said erroring on the side of higher gauge wiring and a relay was not a bad thing.

 

>>>> Purchase a switch that is lighted. <<<<

 

Like the idea of an indicator light. I noticed you mentioned doing the switch portion in a previous post. I didn't want to chance leaving my lights off driving the day; however, the addition of the indicator light in the equation makes it much less likely. I might run with this, thanks.

 

Ken