ABS Light

[JohnAofWV]

Let me take a minute to introduce myself. I am not new to Motorcycles just BMW. I have had two Aspencade 84 & 87 but have been away for awhile since a great citizen of NJ decided to run a stop sign totaling the 84. Not wanting to give up riding I got the 87 and after 10 years and 19K miles I sold it as my family had grown and relocated to a farm and the need for a tractor was greater.

 

Well anyway I decided to get back on two wheels and found a 2002 K1200LT at a good price ($4K). Well I'm not sure now. I went to look at it today and discovered that when I started it up the ABS & warning lights flashed. When reading some of the post on this forum I am unsure of the cause or remedy. The bike has been sitting for about 1 month and it was sluggish to start (battery) but did start. Further examination it looked as if the rear brake pads were pretty low. The bike has 20K mileage which seems a little soon for their replacement. But then again both of the Honda's hadn't reached that mileage before I ended riding back in 97. Could either or both problems be the cause or something more costly?

 

There is not a dealership close by and being that I don't own it I really don't feel like transporting it for repairs. I left that option up to the owner but it is doubtful that he will follow-up with the additional cost. I plan on calling a dealership to try to narrow this down by the symptoms but thought someone here might have experienced something similar to enlighten me.

 

Thanks

 

John

[blackbrick]

brake pads are cheap and ez to replace. normal maint item.

 

abs lights flash on startup during normal system test. will go out when bike gets past a few mph.

 

did you ride it? wouldn't worry about anything you listed unless the abs light did not go out after a short ride and maybe a restart.

[JohnAofWV]

brake pads are cheap and ez to replace. normal maint item.

 

abs lights flash on startup during normal system test. will go out when bike gets past a few mph.

 

did you ride it? wouldn't worry about anything you listed unless the abs light did not go out after a short ride and maybe a restart.

 

Thanks for your response. I didn't drive it today. Might go for a second look and ask to drive it to see if it does go away. I did allow it to idle for an extended time but it didn't disappear. The owner was not there but was being sold for him by a family member.

 

It did seem to be louder than I remember the wings being but that is probably just the nature of the beast in brands.

 

I was really concerned about the bike having an intercom but appears it has the port on the passenger left armrest to plug into. Not sure where the drivers plug is at. Have no idea the cost of the helmet portions though. Dealership can probably advise on that. The wife being accustomed to the intercom system this is a must for 2 up riding.

 

Thanks Again

 

From the Wild & Wonderful

 

JohnofWV

[tom collins]

the abs light will never go out unless it reaches about 5 mph for a short spell. Sometimes a weak battery can cause it to have issues too. there may be no problem at all, but review the service records if he has them. the fluid should have been changed every few years as a regular maint. item.

[JohnAofWV]

the abs light will never go out unless it reaches about 5 mph for a short spell. Sometimes a weak battery can cause it to have issues too. there may be no problem at all, but review the service records if he has them. the fluid should have been changed every few years as a regular maint. item.

 

Thanks Tom. Now if I can just figure out how to set my preferences to receive E-mail replies to my post.

 

 

[tallman]

As stated, vehicle movement should cause the lights to go out from their self check.

But, low battery, low fluids, ABS sensor issue etc can over ride.

 

The BMW intercom stuff used to be ultra pricey.

I'd put a ton of miles on the bike before adding a pillion and then consider a more modern intercom/bluetooth set up.

[Tri750]

Don't continue cranking the bike with a weak battery .

Unless it had the upgraded relay installed, if you continue to try and start with a weak battery, the relay will stick and continue to crank even if the key is removed.

This in time can burn the starter.

 

Charge the battery for the test ride, use a volt meter of you can, the battery will need to get above 12.7 to shut the abs lights off AFTER you begin riding.

Also, keep hand and foot off brake when starting, so it's key on, let the lights flash, (3-5 seconds) start.

As you ride off the abs lights will go out unless the battery will not go above 12.7

Without a healthy battery, there is no way to "field test" the abs to see if the lights will go out.

 

The bmw intercom system is/was not very good. You can possibly still get headsets from bmw but the whole system was not the greatest. The riders port is on the left by the mirror under the small black door.

J&M made the system for bmw and they may have compatible headsets and cords available.

You may be happier and money ahead by stepping onto the 20th century and getting a Scala or Sena Bluetooth system.

 

The brake pads on BMW's come with very little material compared to other bikes. Even when new, the total thickness including the backing plate will be less than 8mm (estimated)

Look for scrape marks in the rear disc and if you have the capabilities measure the thickness. Many LT owners are rear brakers and will ruin the rear disc.

To replace it with BMW parts is I think 500. Aftermarket may make a replacement .

This bike is NOT a Honda. It will have a much firmer ride, will handle like a sport bike and will get you over 50mpg.

 

You need to maintain it such as brake flush every year for wheel circuits, 2 years for the system.

Coolant flush every 2 years including a new rad cap.

Engine/trans/final drive lube every 6k miles or 1 year.

The engine won't care of it gets mineral or Synthetic oil just the correct oil.

The trans and final will do better with synthetic.

 

This model should have the assisted brakes. When you turn the key on, you'll hear a high pitched whine. As you pull the front brake, the whine will be present.

Note that this means that the brakes are integrated.

Front brake also brings on the rear and vice versa. The amount of front rear changes depending on the load and your braking habits.

 

The real tip is stay off the rear brake period. It is not that strong, squeaks are normal and is expensive to replace.

 

Only use premium fuel also. You an get away with mid grade in cool weather, but since this will get much better mileage than any GW, do it right and use premium.

 

If the windshield appears foggy, but wipes off, it will come back. Plan on a new screen. The better one is from Natiinal Cycle, the V Stream.

 

Also, on the battery, due to the many accessory wires going to the terminals, the factory battery is best. Yes, it's over 200 dollars, but if you buy a Yuasa or a cheap battery, it won't be able to handle the many electrics the bike has.

 

Use your battery tender regularly.

 

 

I can give more tips and tricks after you get it .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[tallman]

Excellent reminder to stay off brakes at that time.

 

[SKYGZR]

Note that this means that the brakes are integrated.

Front brake also brings on the rear and vice versa.

 

I do believe on these model years (up to 05) that the interlocked brakes were: Rear only (not linked to front) Front, linked also to rear. (That's one reason why the rear's wear out faster, and it's only one disk).