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TB removing for cleaning and inspection


RosBos

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On a 2008 R1200RT, 58k miles, I was going to remove TB's for cleaning and inspection. I did this last winter on my 2004 1150RT (cleaning, idle screw replacement, injector cleaning...). This is different with auto cold start and such.

 

Besides getting proper tool to remove oetiker clamps what else should I worry about prior removing and after installing. Anyone who did this willing to share experience, trouble and benefits of doing it?

 

RB

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On a 2008 R1200RT, 58k miles, I was going to remove TB's for cleaning and inspection. I did this last winter on my 2004 1150RT (cleaning, idle screw replacement, injector cleaning...). This is different with auto cold start and such.

 

Besides getting proper tool to remove oetiker clamps what else should I worry about prior removing and after installing. Anyone who did this willing to share experience, trouble and benefits of doing it?

 

RB

 

Morning RB

 

I never recommended anyone remove the TB's on the 1200 unless absolutely necessary.

 

Just more can go wrong than go right as cable adjusters twist off easily, TPS contamination is possible (removing is not suggested)--not easy to set back up correctly when re-assembled.

 

Best way to clean on the 1200 is to put drain hoses on the lower TB nipples to drain crud away from engine then use a catalytic converter & o2 sensor safe carb/TB spray cleaner.

 

NEVER (I repeat) NEVER try to remove or adjust the base idle screws on the 1200TB's as they are about impossible to get back to correct.

 

Even cable length adjustment from stock can change/interfere with the cruise control shut-off feature of rolling the throttle forward to disengage the cruise control.

 

Added: if you do feel brave then ONLY remove one side TB at a time, then reinstall & verify correct vacuum & operation before doing the other side. That leaves one unmolested TB to correct the removed side to.

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Thanks DR

 

I guess that is why i couldn't find much discussion on this topic: no one does it.

Few questions: where do you spray carb/tb cleaner from, air filter housing? What do you think on injector cleaning issue? When I sent my 1150 injectors to Mr Injector for cleaning readings before and after were very close, leading me to believe they really didn't need cleaning. I have no history that they were cleaned ever before. I have used additives (heet, seafoam) in my gas, perhaps that did the trick.

Maybe I should save the money on that part as well.

 

 

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Thanks DR

 

I guess that is why i couldn't find much discussion on this topic: no one does it.

Few questions: where do you spray carb/tb cleaner from, air filter housing? What do you think on injector cleaning issue? When I sent my 1150 injectors to Mr Injector for cleaning readings before and after were very close, leading me to believe they really didn't need cleaning. I have no history that they were cleaned ever before. I have used additives (heet, seafoam) in my gas, perhaps that did the trick.

Maybe I should save the money on that part as well.

 

 

Afternoon RB

 

I usually just remove the intake boots & clean (spray around & on) the throttle plates & surrounding TB bore area, then remove the idle steppers & clean the pintle tips & air by-pass bores under the steppers. (caution: never turn key on with steppers plugged in & steppers removed from TB).

 

As far as cleaning the injectors?-- if you use good quality top tier fuel then probably no need to clean the injectors as most top-level fuel contains a good amount of Techron. If you want to go a little extra then add an occasional dose of Techron to your gas tank.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I also only use top tier fuel, and at 65K have no problems with the injectors or TB. I would do the "normal" winter maint. and not do ANYTHING with the injectors/TB systems unless you have a problem. Some Seafoam or Berryman's B12 in the tank now and then should be all you need to keep things going for at least 100K, the life of almost all injectors.

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If you do remove them, be prepared to find cracks in the plastic pulleys. After reading about Ponch's experience, I thought maybe the "sloppy" cable play on my '07 RT might be a loose pulley - it was. Both sides were cracked and one side was just about ready to completely separate from the pulley shaft.

 

I reinforced both by sandwiching glass cloth and JB Weld between 2" fender washers and the pulley, then "pinning" with safety wire. ~30k miles later, they seem to be holding up.

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  • 1 month later...

Best way to clean on the 1200 is to put drain hoses on the lower TB nipples to drain crud away from engine then use a catalytic converter & o2 sensor safe carb/TB spray cleaner.

 

Hi DR

 

Where exactly are these lower TB nipples you are referring to? I didn't see anything on underside of TBs.

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Afternoon RosBos

 

 

Yep, brain fart on my part the TB nipples are on the top on the 1200 hexhead. Was typing 1200 & thinking 1100/1150 oilhead.

 

Have to allow the 1200 hexheads to drain back through the air filter side of the TB's.

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