A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words

[Vader35]

Just got to work on my "barn find" R1150RT-P. They said, "It just quit runnin one day and we parked it in the garage!" No one seems to have a firm timeline but based on what I've found in here, I'd guess it was a few years.

I'm replacing all the interior parts of the tank, and the lubricants all around. The bike is pretty clean and turns over with the starter.

Is there anything specific I should look out for before I fire it up/ ride?

 

[AndyS]

Welcome to the forum it's good to have a new face around.

Why not fill out your profile a bit more and we can maybe even help you more.

 

That fuel pump plate looks a real mess with the frayed wires and the colour of the componenets. Mine has done 100000 miles and looks like new. the one you have there looks like it has been sitting in dirty engine oil.

So based on that, I really recommend a top to toe service before you try to run it up.

All the tank internal rubber tubes need replacing along with the filter and sock.

Make sure those 2 small pipes (overflow and drain)that feed out of the tank are not blocked with corrosion.

That scabby frayed wire need attention.

The air filter and throttle bodies will probably need a really good clean up.

MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT FIDDLE WITH OR ADJUST THE BASE IDLE SCREW ON THE THROTTLE BODY.

The big brass screws (BBS's) on the TB's should be removed & cleaned. Their O rings may well need replacing. The orifice into which the BBS's screw will need a really good clean with carb cleaner - as will the bores and butterfly's of the TB's.

All fluids should be drained and replaced.

 

The 1150 has iABS brakes. The fluids in the primary and secondary circuits should be carefully drained and replaced. You do not want to wreck that particular unit.

 

Keep us posted.

[biometrics]

If the flexible brake lines are made of rubber and not sheathed in stainless steel braid, I would replace them IMMEDIATELY. They are an accident waiting to happen when they are that old. I was lucky. I split one sitting in my driveway just before I was to start a long trip. Better safe than sorry where you brakes are concerned. -John

[Boomer343]

Based on what I have seen inside vintage MC tanks your bike has been sitting for more than a few years. You may be further ahead to source a used tank and pump assembly from a recently running bike.

If you want to try and clean the tank I have actually found Evapo Rust remover will dissolve the old fuel along with the rust. If you wanted to you could put the pump back into the tank and pour a gallon or two of the Evapo rust into it and let it sit for a week with a few agitations thrown in. I just rescued a cruddy tank from a 1937 Triumph this way but it took closer to two weeks. I use time vs petro chemicals. You can rinse the tank with hot water then use a blowing action from a vacuum to dry the tank.

 

The ABS unit makes me cringe if this is what your fuel tank looks like.

[Froggy]

Yep I have used evapo rust and its a great product...it brought an 85 K100 back to life.

I would source a used pump assembly with mount, even if you clean yours I would not trust it on the road.

And your brake lines need to be replaced and complete flush of abs system.

When these RTs are taken care of they are great machines to ride.

[Vader35]

Thanks for the advice. Glad I asked!

 

Welcome to the forum it's good to have a new face around.

Why not fill out your profile a bit more and we can maybe even help you more.

 

That fuel pump plate looks a real mess with the frayed wires and the colour of the componenets. Mine has done 100000 miles and looks like new. the one you have there looks like it has been sitting in dirty engine oil.

So based on that, I really recommend a top to toe service before you try to run it up.

All the tank internal rubber tubes need replacing along with the filter and sock.

Make sure those 2 small pipes (overflow and drain)that feed out of the tank are not blocked with corrosion.

That scabby frayed wire need attention.

The air filter and throttle bodies will probably need a really good clean up.

MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT FIDDLE WITH OR ADJUST THE BASE IDLE SCREW ON THE THROTTLE BODY.

The big brass screws (BBS's) on the TB's should be removed & cleaned. Their O rings may well need replacing. The orifice into which the BBS's screw will need a really good clean with carb cleaner - as will the bores and butterfly's of the TB's.

All fluids should be drained and replaced.

 

The 1150 has iABS brakes. The fluids in the primary and secondary circuits should be carefully drained and replaced. You do not want to wreck that particular unit.

 

Keep us posted.