High Mileage Camhead's

[kltk165]

Was out with the wife on my '11 RT yesterday having a fantastic ride. Was loving the bike so much I was thinking I just might keep it longer than expected. That being said, who's put big miles on their camhead so far? How many miles? Any major, unscheduled, repairs? Brake pads, clutches, shims I consider normal maintenance. Even brake discs on high mileage bikes I would consider normal. Thanks!

[Dave_in_TX]

I have 102k miles on my 2011. Only non-maintenance items have been an oils leak at about 50k that was fixed by tightening the cam tensioner bolt and a outer final drive seal that was replaced about 95k. Both were minor repairs.

[RTJohn]

I had a 2010 RT that had 96,000 miles on it before it was totaled in February. It was never in the shop for repairs. It ran perfectly until it was wrecked.

[RichardSpag]

My late 2011 is now at 67,000 miles. Nothing special to note about it other than the usual duff switch gear, failing of the paralever bearings in the swing arm and flaking paint off the engine and wheels. All normal stuff really that you'd expect from BMW these days.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[walton66]

This is all good news to me because my 2013 will likely be the last new bike I purchase and would like it to last me well into retirement. I had over 100k on an oilhead RS before it was put out to pasture and this bike is so much better to ride.

[kltk165]

Anyone else? Would love to hear from more high mileage owners. Thanks!

[Dave_in_TX]

Anyone else? Would love to hear from more high mileage owners. Thanks!

 

Except for the valve mechanism, it's basically the same as the hexhead. I put 140k on my 07 RT before trading it in. It was still running fine at the time.

[BrianF]

Riding 2012 just over 60k.....I usually over maintain the bike. My only surprise was on a cross country from Oregon when a routine 6k service in NC identified a failed ABS pump.

The brakes still functioned ok, just no ABS so I had the work done upon my return home.

Very glad I had an extended warranty as the bill came to over $2200!

 

I keep thinking about replacement but this bike just keeps me happy every ride, and I'm not real happy about the throttle (lack of) control on the new bikes.

 

Brisn

[Highway41]

Put 84K miles on a '10 RT and it was bullitt proof requiring only a couple valve shims and a FD seal. Like Brian, I probably over maintained it but had both the time and the inclination. Put 86K miles on an '05 Hexhead and much preferred the '10.

Bill

[kltk165]

Good stuff. Thanks guys...

[racer7]

Can't say I've ever seen a well treated boxer wear out early and every decent size rally has at least a couple 200K (or more) mile examples (not me, I own too many bikes for that and would have to ride 300K miles a year to wear them all out).

Biggest issue is unexpected expensive repairs like FD, clutch, seals etc and a lot of that depends on luck and extent of rider abuse (idiots can trash a clutch in 20K where most of us expect 100K or more)

[jebersole]

Another possibly "weak" component is the rear shock. It has been known to leak prematurely. A new OEM replacement (ESA) is over $2k. I bought a well cared for 2010 with 17K miles, and shortly after was told the rear shock was leaking or had leaked at some point. Preload & damping electrics still work, and I'm not bottoming out, so I'm holding off on fixing. Wilbur's is a popular retrofit.

 

[RichardSpag]

Don't dismiss the possibility of getting the rear shock refurbished. Here (in the UK) I recently got my rear shock overhauled for £250 to as new condition. Certainly a realistic option if you can find a good quality repairer.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[Dave_in_TX]

Biggest issue is unexpected expensive repairs like FD, clutch, seals etc and a lot of that depends on luck and extent of rider abuse (idiots can trash a clutch in 20K where most of us expect 100K or more)

 

Yep, I'm about to make one of those expensive repairs. With 105k on my 2011, the clutch recently started slipping. The clutch on my 2007 RT was still fine at 140k.

[Froggy]

This is all good to hear since my last RT (02RT) cost me more $$$$ then any bike I have ever had COMBINED. ABS at 30,000 that almost killed me, input spline at 33,000. After all that a deer totaled it last Monday at 35,000 miles. I just road a 2013 90th Annvs. with 23000 the other day...wow. Huge diff.in steering, the front end wants to drop into turns, unlike my 02RT which would "flow" into a turn. Tires are Mich 3s in very good shape so I dont think they would cause this (but Ive never had the 3s before). Is this a common trait of the Hex/Cam head bikes ?

Anyway, I hope this will be a much more reliable steed. I have always kept my vehicles for over a 100,000 miles and hearing these responses make me feel more confident about NOT leaving the BMW brand.

[Don_Eilenberger]

This is all good to hear since my last RT (02RT) cost me more $$$$ then any bike I have ever had COMBINED. ABS at 30,000 that almost killed me, input spline at 33,000. After all that a deer totaled it last Monday at 35,000 miles. I just road a 2013 90th Annvs. with 23000 the other day...wow. Huge diff.in steering, the front end wants to drop into turns, unlike my 02RT which would "flow" into a turn. Tires are Mich 3s in very good shape so I dont think they would cause this (but Ive never had the 3s before). Is this a common trait of the Hex/Cam head bikes ?

Anyway, I hope this will be a much more reliable steed. I have always kept my vehicles for over a 100,000 miles and hearing these responses make me feel more confident about NOT leaving the BMW brand.

 

Assuming this was a 2013 RT?

 

No - they don't handle that much differently. It sounds as if the bikes geometry may be a bit out of wack for your weight. That can happen if the rear preload is jacked up and the front isn't. That changes the cornering.

 

Was the former owner of the RT a heavy person? Someone who always had a pillion rider? If so - they might have changed the rear spring to give more preload - which will jack up the rear when someone of normal weight rides it. And that might make it feel like it wants to fall into turns.

 

Also - the rear tire profile, if it has significant wear - the Pilot-Road-III was prone to forming ridges at the intersection of the hard center rubber and the softer cornering rubber. These can be felt as a distinct "ride up on the ridge - then drop into the turn" sort of feeling. Happily - Pilot-Road IV's don't do that.

 

Either - or a combination of both - could cause what you felt.

 

Oh - as far as reliability? My 2007 R1200R had 97,000 miles on it when I sold it (and had just completed an 8,000 mile coast to coast to coast ride on it) - and the only "failure" in that time was a steering damper (which got replaced in Kansas City.) I had no intention of selling it until a deal I couldn't pass up came by on a 2012 R1200R - so that's what I'm riding now. The '07 moved to Alabama and is happily riding along at > 100,000 miles with it's new owner.

[Froggy]

This model 2013 had the esa, and yes, I have felt the falling into a turn before on my old RT when on one set of tires I road more back roads than highway. Sides were worn out but had plenty of center tread left. After the ride on the 2013 I did run my hand across the profile of the tires and didn't feel a flat spot or ridge...of coarse these hands haven't felt any nice curves in a while.

[Don_Eilenberger]

I would make sure the ESA is adjusting the preload at both ends of the bike. If the rear is stuck at 2 riders + luggage - that could do it.

[duckbubbles]

I would make sure the ESA is adjusting the preload at both ends of the bike. If the rear is stuck at 2 riders + luggage - that could do it.

Preload adjusts the rear shock only. The front just changes damper settings.

 

Frank