TJRL Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 I have a 2015 R1200RT with the uber expensive BMW top-box and would like to change the way the inbuilt brake light functions e.g. modulation. The simple way is to just cut the feed into the top-box socket and splice in my required feed. The better way is make a small lead up with a plug on one end and a socket on the other. All the wiring would be simple "pass through" other than the brake feed which would not be picked from the BMW loom but allow me to supply my feed. So here is the question: does anyone know where I can get hold of a top box plug and socket like on the BMW loom? Link to comment
KSB Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Check this forum: http://www.k1600forum.com/forum The 1600GTL uses the same trunk and there is lots of info there concerning the addition of lights, etc. Link to comment
lkraus Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 The connectors used on BMWs seem to be designed specifically for BMW rather than some sort of standard connector. At least, I've never found a source other than a dealer. Fortunately, most plugs and sockets are available from a dealer as repair parts. You can match your connectors using the MAX BMW parts fiche. Look under "61 - Electrical system" and then "Repair Cable Main Cable Harness". Shipping costs on small items like this usually make me turn to my local dealer, but be aware that some dealers are reluctant to order these for non-shop use. Some connectors are also used on BMW cars, so you might try the local car dealer if the bike dealer is unwilling sell to the public. Link to comment
Paul4450 Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I used a Skeen controller when I added the P3 rear lights to control the stock BMW brake light in the top box. So the top box brake light flashes along with Skeen lights, and it is up at eye level for the drivers behind me. But my RT did not come pre-wired to power the top box, so you will probably have to figure out which wires go to the brake light in the top box. My nightmare was disassembling the top box to run the wires between the layers of the top box! Link to comment
bdfbeemer Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I used the can opener brake wire to make the top box light work as a brake light. It is only a running light in the stock configuration. I can't remember the wire color. If I have time I will check. Link to comment
PadG Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I used the can opener brake wire to make the top box light work as a brake light. It is only a running light in the stock configuration. I can't remember the wire color. If I have time I will check. Actually, it's only a brake light in normal configuration! That aux. LED does not light up as running light! I also use the Canopener to turn it into running plus brake light, AND the braking part is programmable to flash in either of two different mode, or left alone as ordinary brake light! FYI, to connect the Canopener to the top-box aux. LED, I cut the gray/black/yellow wire ON THE BIKE SIDE of the connector, and connect the Canopener's brake wire output to the end of the box-side of the wire. You don't need to touch the brown ground wire, and you should tape up the other end of the cut wire, just to make sure that you don't have an unintentional short. Link to comment
bdfbeemer Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I used the can opener brake wire to make the top box light work as a brake light. It is only a running light in the stock configuration. I can't remember the wire color. If I have time I will check. Actually, it's only a brake light in normal configuration! That aux. LED does not light up as running light! I also use the Canopener to turn it into running plus brake light, AND the braking part is programmable to flash in either of two different mode, or left alone as ordinary brake light! FYI, to connect the Canopener to the top-box aux. LED, I cut the gray/black/yellow wire ON THE BIKE SIDE of the connector, and connect the Canopener's brake wire output to the end of the box-side of the wire. You don't need to touch the brown ground wire, and you should tape up the other end of the cut wire, just to make sure that you don't have an unintentional short. My bad, it has been long enough I forgot what I didn't like. Link to comment
TJRL Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 I used the can opener brake wire ... I cut the gray/black/yellow wire ON THE BIKE SIDE of the connector ... I know I can achieve my aim by cutting the bike harness (albeit only one wire) but I was trying to avoid having to do that. But to do so I need the find a OEM compatible plug and socket so fat no luck. Link to comment
PadG Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I used the can opener brake wire ... I cut the gray/black/yellow wire ON THE BIKE SIDE of the connector ... I know I can achieve my aim by cutting the bike harness (albeit only one wire) but I was trying to avoid having to do that. But to do so I need the find a OEM compatible plug and socket so fat no luck. Yeah, I was hesitant about cutting that wire also, but I figured that it will be quite easy to splice it back together, if I ever need to, with a PosiSplice. Actually, instead of taping the loose end of the conductor that I had cut, I put an extra PosiSplice that I had on there! I think that you are going to have a really tough time finding the right connector! Many people have tried to find a source for one, to make a pig-tail converter to connect powered top-box to wethead RTs without central locking! Dealers weren't able to help them either. Link to comment
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