Pondering a new WC RT

[fastlarry]

I have a 2011 R1200RT which I think is just great. I installed Ohlins units front and rear as soon as I got it. It handles wonderfully. I looked at Ohlins for the new RT's and so far, they only offer a unit for the rear. Strange. Thinking of buying a standard version without all the electronic gadgetry and putting some Ohlins on it when they become available, front and rear. My RT now has all the electronics available in '11 and I don't find the radio all that useful. Any advice out there?

 

Larry

[strataj]

I had Wilbers on my 02R1150RT, what a difference that made vs stock. On my 14R1200RT I have the ESA suspension, it's a dynamic system not just a shock as on my 02RT. http://www.cycleworld.com/2013/03/14/bmw-dynamic-electronic-suspension-adjustment-explained/ I'm very happy with it, way different experience then my old RT. I'd buy it again.

 

Jay

[mickeym3]

You'll be hard pressed to find a Wethead RT that doesn't offer the packages featuring various (if not all) of the features that you identify as "gadgetry'. Suppose you could order one, but would get with a dealer to see if they would accommodate your order. IMO the Wethead motor, wet clutch and handling makes it very worthwhile sans gadgetry but found the wonder wheel (particularly when using NAV V) and ESA real pluses. You might also consider resale.

[fastlarry]

One gets Nav V preparations, Cruise Control and the accessory socket in the standard configuration. I can't believe any form of ESA is better than Ohlins, but I could be wrong.

[TEWKS]

Ohlins or not, if you get one, you'll be changing your name to wickedfastlarry!

 

 

Pat

[fastlarry]

My name is wishful thinking, Pat

[StuGotz]

Ride a new RT Larry.

 

You'll be surprised at the suspension. I still have my 03 RT with Ohlins, and this bike is so much better. In all ways. It's just on rails.

 

MB>

[Guest Kakugo]

I have a 2011 R1200RT which I think is just great. I installed Ohlins units front and rear as soon as I got it. It handles wonderfully. I looked at Ohlins for the new RT's and so far, they only offer a unit for the rear. Strange. Thinking of buying a standard version without all the electronic gadgetry and putting some Ohlins on it when they become available, front and rear. My RT now has all the electronics available in '11 and I don't find the radio all that useful. Any advice out there?

 

Larry

 

Wilbers has WESA-X shocks available for both the RT-LC and the GS/GSA-LC which allow to keep all original functionalities. Considerably cheaper than Ohlins and with better aftersale, at least here.

 

Honestly you'll be hard pressed to find a bike on the dealer's floor which isn't fully loaded or nearly so, meaning everything bar the radio.

Sure, you can order one exactly the way you want but waiting times are excruciatingly long: last October I was quoted at least four and a half months for a GSA-LC.

[CRUSTYBEEMER]

Yesterday I quit pondering and went out and dropped the hammer on a new 2016 RT! Will take delivery in March-winter is just around the corner here!

[realshelby]

I had Ohlins on my '04 RT. I thought I was going to be giving up something when I traded for the new '14 RT with ESA. I would love to have a set of Wilbers w/ESA to try, but the ability to adjust from soft, normal, dynamic on the suspension when riding is something I would not give up on another new bike. Then add the preload adjustment.......

 

I don't have the shift assist, locking feature. I didn't think I needed some of the stuff I have. I was wrong, would not buy another without some of what the RT packages bring to enjoying the ride.

[Skywagon]

I have had a bike with Ohlins. They are a fine shock, but that is what they are...a shock. The ESA on the new bike is more than soft, medium, hard. It constantly adjust the whole time you are riding. No plain shock can do that. There is plenty to read about the suspension and the constant adjusting every fraction of a second as the suspension tracks over varying road conditions. I won't go deeper because I can't but encourage you to read about it. Heated grips, heated seat, controlling the GPS screen from the wonder wheel, cruise, wet clutch, wet engine which burns zero oil, TPMS, and much more make this the best bike I've ever owned.

 

On another note if you are happy with the bike you have...then keep riding it. Nothing wrong with liking the bike you have. When I had my 1150RT I couldn't make myself buy the 1200 pre water version as I just didn't like them very much. I love this bike....sans the factory 2x4 vinyl covered seat.

[fastlarry]

Guess I'll have to find one to ride. The nearest dealers are over 100 miles away and in the city. Need to get out in the country on one to see how it handles. That means Holt in Athens, OH, if they have one to demo. Have to give them a call. But you all are pretty persuasive.

[PadG]

Guess I'll have to find one to ride. The nearest dealers are over 100 miles away and in the city. Need to get out in the country on one to see how it handles. That means Holt in Athens, OH, if they have one to demo. Have to give them a call. But you all are pretty persuasive.

Make sure you take your checkbook!!!

 

Good time to take the test ride, and if you take to the wethead, which I suspect that you will, you can order one now. This way, you can have exactly the options that you want, or don't want.

[Antimatter]

Regarding that, has anyone actually done a set-up routine on a bike with ESA? As in actually measured sag, amount of fork dive under braking, pushed hard enough to see if there's front end chatter in corners, etc? My big fear with ESA is that I'll get ESA set up for the factory test rider who weighs 150 lbs (which I don't). My understanding of the system is that it changes rebound damping, but if the spring doesn't have the correct sag for the rider's weight, then all the rebound damping in the world won't actually make for as good a ride as a conventional shock that's been set up properly.

 

Currently, most motorcycles I buy I end up trashing the stock suspension and putting in a heavier spring (and more rebound and compression damping), mostly for track riding. I guess the idea of paying extra for something I'm going to have to rip out anyway irks me.

[StuGotz]

Antimatter:

 

I'd venture to say that unless you are a certified suspension expert, you'd be hard pressed to beat the factory setup. As I said, I set up my 03RT with Ohlins and tuned for my conditions. This bike is that much better. What I don't know, is how long it will last. But I'll bet it lasts longer than my Ohlins did. Front shock seal starting dripping at two years and 13k miles.

 

With my factory warranty and extension, I'll have the factory cover the failure this time. I understand that custom Ohlins includes maintenance. I'm just at a period in life where riding is more important than wrenching on my highway bike. I'll leave that wrenching time for another " bike".....

 

I fully understand you wanting a tuned suspension. And your concerns about unhappiness with "stock" systems.

 

I'm 200 lbs, and this thing Works for me. It's dynamic and adjustable.

 

MB>

[lkraus]

With all that Dynamic ESA already offers, I'm surprised that it does not automatically adjust preload/sag to suit the current load. I'd expect that to be a relatively simple software feature, within the spring limits.

[Antimatter]

Antimatter:

 

I'd venture to say that unless you are a certified suspension expert, you'd be hard pressed to beat the factory setup. As I said, I set up my 03RT with Ohlins and tuned for my conditions. This bike is that much better. What I don't know, is how long it will last. But I'll bet it lasts longer than my Ohlins did. Front shock seal starting dripping at two years and 13k miles.

 

With my factory warranty and extension, I'll have the factory cover the failure this time. I understand that custom Ohlins includes maintenance. I'm just at a period in life where riding is more important than wrenching on my highway bike. I'll leave that wrenching time for another " bike".....

 

I fully understand you wanting a tuned suspension. And your concerns about unhappiness with "stock" systems.

 

I'm 200 lbs, and this thing Works for me. It's dynamic and adjustable.

 

MB>

 

Thanks for the response. I guess I'm still stuck with the idea that if I can't get the sag right, I can't get the suspension right. When the time is right (when my bank account is right), I'll take a new RT for a spin and see if it rings my bell.

[fastlarry]

That's where I am coming from, also. My "11RT with its well set up Ohlins is just about perfect. I never change the damping, just the preload when packing my wife and stuff on the back. Set the sag and then worked on the damping adjustments for a period till I got them right. Rides pretty plush over all sorts of roads with good control. I am considering ordering a standard equipped bike and change the suspension units ASAP. I find the radio unusable without in-helmet speakers. I have been riding for 40 years; I don't think all these adaptive controls are that necessary. Now, if you had one of the 180HP fire breathing sport bikes;they may be unridable without them for the average rider.

 

The new more powerful engine, wet clutch, and integral tranny, lower seat all appeal to me a lot. Not so much the electronics.

[rodantking]

He is my two cents. I'm 6'3" 205 pounds. This is my first rt but I've had lots of bikes. I ride street and track and I don't ride slow. If you see my on the interstate I'm riding with the faster traffic but the better the road, the more aggressive I ride. I keep mid corner speed sane on the street but I'm still braking into and driving out of corners. I have 3500 miles on my rt and the power zone on the tires (for me that's about 1" to 2" of the edge of the tire) are getting close. If these where not my first set and I I didn't take time to get to know the bike, they would be ready to go. On a quality road I'm done accelerating before the bike is upright. I don't say any of this to brag. Motorcycles are different things to different people and that's great. I just think it's important to understand me to understand what I'm about to say.

Get the esa. It's the best stock setup I've ever had and maybe the best street set up period and when it goes and I get a aftermarket setup that works with the esa it can only be better. When I sell it I'll get a a lot of the extra money back. As far as esa only belongs on a s1000, no way. If I had both and could only have it on one of them, I would but it on the rt. That said, I would but it on both because those lighter bikes can be tricky to get right for both smooth pavement canyon road and the goat trail that's far and away for smooth. The way this bike goes from a plush freeway carpet to a stable high speed sweeper eater to a composed goat trail tamer is very impressive. That is riding one up or two up. How they got this suspension to work so well with any load on it (205 has to far from there test rider) I really don't know. My biggest bitch about it is I think you should be able to tune preload, rebound, and compression in every setting. That said I would mess with it much because it works, but it would open a whole new world to the aftermarket as they find there own way to make it work.

[John in VA]

That's where I am coming from, also. My "11RT with its well set up Ohlins is just about perfect. I never change the damping, just the preload when packing my wife and stuff on the back. Set the sag and then worked on the damping adjustments for a period till I got them right. Rides pretty plush over all sorts of roads with good control. I am considering ordering a standard equipped bike and change the suspension units ASAP. I find the radio unusable without in-helmet speakers. I have been riding for 40 years; I don't think all these adaptive controls are that necessary. Now, if you had one of the 180HP fire breathing sport bikes;they may be unridable without them for the average rider.

 

The new more powerful engine, wet clutch, and integral tranny, lower seat all appeal to me a lot. Not so much the electronics.

 

+1

 

To each their own, but IMO premium shocks set up correctly for the rider are all most riders should ever need. I've had two RTs with ESA and swapping to plain old Ohlins improved the handling greatly, over any surface and at any angle.

 

The WC D-ESA is definitely more sophisticated (and complicated) than earlier ESA, and I understand that push-button preload adjustment is more convenient than spinning a preload knob, but for street riding the electronic changing of damping rates in microsecond intervals is pretty esoteric.

 

I've test ridden several WC RTs and didn't find their suspension any better (on the street) than Ohlins-equipped RTs in my experience. The bike's overall balance is improved but that's not strictly the shocks, IMO. I'm talking about street riding -- for MotoGP with knee pucks, yeah I'd want Dynamic ESA.

 

The only downside to ordering a new WC RT without ESA and putting Ohlins on it is that its resale value would probably be reduced greatly and permanently, since ESA is now de facto expected "standard equipment" on any WC RT.

 

Then again, when you sell your ESA bike in the future with 50k+ miles on it, the next owner will have to replace those worn out ESA shocks at huge expense, which should affect its value, as opposed to rebuilding worn Ohlins.

 

I'm not knocking D-ESA. It's impressive technology. I'm just of the opinion that the cost/benefit ratio of that technology is pretty bad over the long haul compared to Ohlins.

 

My 2c.

[realshelby]

Ohlins or Wilbers set perfectly for a rider and his weight and road conditions are as good as it gets.

 

BUT, loads change, road conditions change.

 

ESA is more adaptable than I ever realized and can be better than the best "manual" suspension when used in every day conditions.

 

Just like carburetors, which can be just as good as fuel injection, changing conditions have always been hard to allow for in a custom suspension.

 

I expect the stock ESA shocks could be rebuilt, and if not there are already ESA aftermarket shocks available. So in the end you wouldn't really spend more for ESA in most cases.

[John in VA]

Ohlins or Wilbers set perfectly for a rider and his weight and road conditions are as good as it gets.

 

BUT, loads change, road conditions change.

When loads change, preload has to be changed manually on both, one by switch, one by knob, which is separate from damping. ESA is more convenient -- important if you change loads frequently, not so much if you don't. As for damping, premium shocks' high performance is not limited to ideal road conditions -- a good setup is good for all road conditions.

 

ESA is more adaptable than I ever realized and can be better than the best "manual" suspension when used in every day conditions.

If you mean ESA microdamping is adaptable, it logically is true that it can be better, but I never felt it seat-of-the-pants testing over the same every day road conditions back to back vs Ohlins. YMMV. Other improvements in weight/balance/engine/clutch etc. of the WC are much more important to its improved handling than ESA, IMO. ASC is useful for emergencies, but like ABS it's for emergencies.

 

Just like carburetors, which can be just as good as fuel injection, changing conditions have always been hard to allow for in a custom suspension.

It would be hard for the best carburetors to ever be as good as the best fuel injection, IMO, but I think fueling and suspension comparisons are not a good analogy.

A good custom suspension tuned to the rider performs excellently over most any road condition you'd likely come across. Granted, microsecond damping adjustment depending on lean angle could be useful in extreme conditions, but I believe D-ESA doesn't monitor lean angle unless you also get the Ride Modes Pro option. More money for a gilding of the lily, IMO.

 

I expect the stock ESA shocks could be rebuilt, and if not there are already ESA aftermarket shocks available. So in the end you wouldn't really spend more for ESA in most cases.

If D-ESA shocks can be rebuilt, that'll be good, especially if such a rebuild costs no more than the typical Ohlins rebuild that many shops can do. If they can't be rebuilt, replacing them with OEM or aftermarkets will cost much more than rebuilding Ohlins/Wilbers.

Again, I think D-ESA is cool and the pushbutton preload is convenient, but my question is cost up front and cost down the road vs coolness and convenience for every day street riding. All IMO and everyone has their own prefs.

[Antimatter]

I feel like a sparked a bit of controversy, which isn't what I wanted to do. FYI, I tend to buy bikes used, and the first thing I replace (generally speaking) is the rear shock, mostly because by the time I get a bike, the shock is shot. I was just wondering if somehow the modern ESA system did preload as well, but it sounds like the real-time damping is good enough to overcome the lack of proper sag. I wonder how much better it could be with the proper sag set-up...

 

Someone needs to come up with a way to rebuild ESA so whackos like myself can satisfy their MotoGP fantasies.

 

 

[fastlarry]

Well, I guess it will be a fully equipped bike, since that is all the dealers are getting these days. The ESA will have to do until Ohlins comes out with a front shock unit and if I'm less impressed with the stock units than I expect I will be from all your testimonies. I have no doubts about the engine and tranny and the wet clutch. And, the seat height is supposed to be an inch lower than mine and that will be nice, as well. It is funny that after 40 years of riding motorcycles I still get a kick out of it and anticipate a new bike like a kid at Christmas. Thanks, everyone. You guys on this forum are the best.

[Ride200mi]

With all that Dynamic ESA already offers, I'm surprised that it does not automatically adjust preload/sag to suit the current load. I'd expect that to be a relatively simple software feature, within the spring limits.

 

It does automatically adjust. I can feel it raise and lower depending on one or two on the bike.

My feedback on the ESA, I have never had a motorbike do what the ESA can and it does it all automatically. I ride two up with about 5 lb.. in each side bag. I'm 225 w/gear and my wife is 155 w/gear. So thats around 390, well under max load (thank goodness ..) I like the Dynamic setting on soft, two up w/bags. It is rock stable. My last motorbike was a Aprilia Futura and in short time, I had to replace the shock (with a Wilber). I also upgraded the front fork to a race version Showa from one of the race models from Aprilia. It was much better but nothing like the ESA on the BMW. Just saying…..

[fastlarry]

Any thoughts on keyless operation, central locking, shift assist, basic vs. deluxe top case, anti theft alarm? These are extra cost options, maybe dealer installed? they can add up quickly.

 

I wonder about shift assist. I practice smooth up and down shifting conventionally and have become rather good at it.

 

Have keyless in my Infiniti and I guess I like it, until I have to get a new fob.

 

I know saddles are pretty subjective. Any consensus on the saddle? I have in my last 3 bikes bought RDL's.

[rodantking]

Any thoughts on keyless operation, central locking, shift assist, basic vs. deluxe top case, anti theft alarm? These are extra cost options, maybe dealer installed? they can add up quickly.

 

I wonder about shift assist. I practice smooth up and down shifting conventionally and have become rather good at it.

 

Have keyless in my Infiniti and I guess I like it, until I have to get a new fob.

 

I know saddles are pretty subjective. Any consensus on the saddle? I have in my last 3 bikes bought RDL's.

 

A lot of these stuff your going to get unless you special order. Keyless and central locking are going to be standard of anything the dealer orders in and I don't think worth the hassle of not getting it. They aren't make or break things but it is convenient as far as I'm concerned, but others will disagree and more convenient then in a car because of gloves. The quicksifter I use more than I thought. It's not perfect by any means but the harder I'm riding the better it works. That one I can see being very subjective because I hate paddle shifters in cars (takes the fun away) and it's easily added after resale. Topcase....... Don't know what to tell you. I have one and would buy it again (for 2 up reasons) buts it's no doubt the biggest ripoff going. It's stupid expensive and it doesn't even come color matched. Something piggy backs on the anti theft. Can't remember what. Maybe it's the central locking so I could be wrong on that. I have it. It gives a bit of peice of mind at hotels but it nothing I was worrying much about before. If I commuted on it, I might like it more, but my bike lives happily in a garage and am a sport touring guy. Otherwise I'm the one that sets it off when I forget it has it.

[TEWKS]

Any thoughts on keyless operation, central locking, shift assist, basic vs. deluxe top case, anti theft alarm? These are extra cost options, maybe dealer installed? they can add up quickly.

 

Keyless...don't have it so don't miss.

 

Central locking...is awesome!

 

Shift assist...kind of a gimmick IMO. Works but not sure I would of paid for it.

 

Big money top case...is nice if you plan on leaving it on the bike. Central lock & interior light.

 

Anti theft...peace of mind when you can't see her.

 

You should be able to get the top case at about half price with bike purchase. Install is about three minutes.

 

If you've got the legs, RDL is a 17 hour seat, pain free.

 

EDIT

Reread...Guess you already know about the RDL. The stock seat is not great but it is a better attempt from BMW than previous seats.

 

Pat

[Sid47]

FWIW: I'm now on my 3rd RT, the 2015 which at $30,000 in Aussie dollars comes with 'everything' - except the GPS (that's $1200 extra and I added it).

 

I expected the usual incremental improvements and they are there in just about everything that counts, but I've been really blown away by the improvement in handling and the overall dynamics of the bike.

 

The new steel frame feels stiffer and narrower than the stressed-member design. The engine is 16% up in power and 8% in torque and at almost the same weight (3kg heavier) the combination comes out as a big plus. The bike is at least 10kph faster in the same corners - and I have NOT suddenly improved as a rider.

 

The integrated GPS is a welcomed upgrade from my trusty Tomtom Rider of the last 10 years (and 2 bikes). The seating position is different - I think a little lower, pegs slightly more forward (none of which means anything to anyone other than someone updating from another RT) and the seat seems a little better (though I've used a Good Wool Store lambswool cover from 2000, with an Airhawk under the back cover for the Boss (pillion).

 

I'm ticked off that BMW have discontinued the tank rail (but enough has been said by others in another thread to cover that debacle) and I'm presently using a small Motodry bag on the rear cargo carrier which does the job of holding the usual everyday stuff, but without the convenience of being in front of me. And I can't use the tankbag when I clip on one of the top boxes (I held over a 28L & 49L from the 2010 model - more of which in a minute). I've just put in an order for a Givi tanklock bag and adaptor ring which, hopefully, will restore the previous balance.

 

About the top boxes: They were keyed to the 2010 bike which I sold - along with its keys! Asked my dealer to repin the locks to match the new key and they said "too hard" and handed me a bag of pins. I bought another key coded to the old bike (and top box locks) which enabled me to add and subtract, but decided I to give the repinning a go. Watched a couple of You Tube videos (to the makers of which I am eternally grateful).

 

I liked the idea of making your own lock pick and sliding the barrel out - but it looked a little tricky so I decided to go "the certain way" (I was a transmission technician once up on a time and figured this would be well within my scope!)

 

I laid a sheet over the dining room table (lost my home workshop when we moved into an apartment) picked up the 49L box and went looking for a design feature I would call "a convenient lock access port", the sort of thing any decent Aussie engineer would design in. There was none. This is German engineering! Since it is never going to fail there is absolutely no need to give access to it! Schluss!

 

OK, so we pull the thing apart with iPhone camera at the ready to breadcrumb my way out of trouble. Since there seems to be no worthwhile assembly diagrams anywhere on the web (or at least I couldn't find one) I ended up undoing everything I could see and gently prized the inner and outer case apart. Sproing! The entire locking mechanism is - was - actually fastened to the outer case and has a couple of cables under a little tension that are held in place up against the inner lining. When you separate the two they neatly flick bits here and there. Add 20 minutes to the charge sheet for slowly figuring out how everything fit together, take a snapshot for later, and move on.

 

The locking mechanism itself is a mechanical wonder to behold and any time you curse the cost you should pull one apart and you'll be cured! Or suicidal. One of those.

 

Anyway, we get down to the lock barrel itself and, reaching for the camera . . . sproing! Now the actual lock barrel holder has to be able to lock, rotate, push in to release the lid when unlocked, and turned in the opposite direction to unlock the luggage rack mechanism. With a handful of bits that made little sense, I was extremely glad that I had the 49L case for reference. Managed to disassemble that without sproings and get a series of (safety) photos of a fully assembled lock (close enough in function to the small box lock) and tease it apart to understand how everything worked, then with that problem solved, turned to the repinning exercise.

 

That turned out to be the easiest bit (thanks again to You Tube). Wife walks in at the point where I have dining table and kitchen bench covered in large and small pieces of luggage, locks, tools - and a fair measure of really black moly grease! Great stuff. Though it doesn't look great smeared on white marble bench tops - but it wipes off (thank God!).

 

End result: Two top boxes repinned to the new key and working like a charm.

[PadG]

Any thoughts on keyless operation, central locking, shift assist, basic vs. deluxe top case, anti theft alarm? These are extra cost options, maybe dealer installed? they can add up quickly.

 

I wonder about shift assist. I practice smooth up and down shifting conventionally and have become rather good at it.

 

Have keyless in my Infiniti and I guess I like it, until I have to get a new fob.

 

I know saddles are pretty subjective. Any consensus on the saddle? I have in my last 3 bikes bought RDL's.

Just my 2 cents......

 

Keyless - I have it, and it is nice, but I wouldn't miss it.

 

Central Locking - great feature! I do have the new powered top-case, and my routine when stopping for a while is to put the helmet and riding gears in the top-case, close it, press the central lock button on the handle bar and simply walk away. Now, if I was parked where the threat of theft is relatively high, then I would fish out my keyless FOB and lock as well as turning on the alarm instead of using the handle-bar button to lock/unlock.

 

Shift Assist Pro - Love it! Takes a little learning to get used to it, but once that you do, I suspect that you will love it. I can shift very quickly and smoothly all the way up (smooth shifting from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd is a little tricky, but possible), as well as all the way down into 1st! The PSA will actually "blip" the engine for you on the down shifts. BTW, just for reference, I am a very fast shifter (both up and down) when riding my previous '07 RT, and yet I really love the PSA!!! Just remember that the RT, especially the wetheads, loves rpm, and you will get smooth upshifts when accelerating hard!

 

Top-Case - expensive! The old style top-case will fit, and the new style comes with or without "power". I do have the new design, with power. For me. the main attraction of this particular top-case is the ability to add an auxiliary LED brake light, up high! I am a big fan of maximizing visibility! I also have the Clearwater Krista aux. lights installed, and the Canopener electronic module that came with it can be used to drive the aux. brake light so that it also function as running light, along with programability for the brake light function to flash or even be dynamic in the flashing!

 

Alarm - you will have to decide that for yourself! I think that the decision is a personal one based on what you think that you need to protect your property!

[fastlarry]

I can't believe they want $1300 for that top case. Won' t do it. I can get a mounting kit for my old Givi Monokey for $200 and use that when I need a top case, which is rarely. Usually when packing the wife and her stuff along with me. Looks rather clunky, but when traveling, form follows function.

 

 

[Alfred02]

I just kept my previous Top Box from my 2005 Hexhead and re-keyed it. Saved a ton of money

[StuGotz]

And the cheapest thing on a BMW is....

 

MB>

[gordiet]

I put on a Givi V47 and had it painted to match the bike. Looks super. GT

[utahskies]

I was never a big fan of the 49l top box anyway. Bigger is not always better or needed, especially if most of your riding is one-up. I find it a bit ungainly. I saved my 28l box from my 2005 and it fits perfectly. Yes, it uses a key but so what. Price was right, and where I ride out in the boondocks, there is no risk of someone trying to get in there. Regarding the other options:

 

Love keyless and central locking

Enjoy Pro shift during sporty riding

Love the GPS, though Google Maps through my helmet speakers is just as effective, just not visual

Overall, this bike kicks ass and does everything I need it to do

[Peter K]

That's what I love about this site...you can read an entire series of posts and not have a clue what anyone is talking about!

 

Though I am 100% positive my RT does not need it, what is an Ohlin ??

[marcopolo]

That's what I love about this site...you can read an entire series of posts and not have a clue what anyone is talking about!

 

Though I am 100% positive my RT does not need it, what is an Ohlin ??

 

Ohlins is a Swedish company which manufactures suspension components.

 

 

http://www.ohlinsusa.com

[acy540]

I have a 2014 loaded. Your buying a top of the line bike. How much are you really saving by deleting options. WHAT ARE YOU GIVING UP!!. Honestly I use every option. The shift assist is the greatest thing since slice bread!! Yeah maybe give up the radio or not. I probably have spent more money on farkles that all the options cost. The ESA you go from aggressive riding to hwy with the roll of the wonder wheel.

 

I would not delete any option on the bike. Yes if you take a test ride take your check book

[fastlarry]

I have one coming. Without a test ride on you all's recommendations.

[Guest Kakugo]

I have a 2014 loaded. Your buying a top of the line bike. How much are you really saving by deleting options. WHAT ARE YOU GIVING UP!!. Honestly I use every option. The shift assist is the greatest thing since slice bread!! Yeah maybe give up the radio or not. I probably have spent more money on farkles that all the options cost. The ESA you go from aggressive riding to hwy with the roll of the wonder wheel.

 

I would not delete any option on the bike. Yes if you take a test ride take your check book

 

That's the question my dealer posed to me last year when I asked for a quote on a GSA-LC.

 

The problem, as I explained to him, is the stuff I don't want and I don't need. I could not care less about saving a few pennies when you are spending that much on a bike.

I absolutely hate the shift assist function: as I commented to him if I had it installed on my bike I'll take a big hammer to it until there's nothing left but small scraps of plastic and metal.

I already had a bike with keyless ignition and disliked it almost as much, so that's another useless feature for me. Before you ask, my car has an old fashioned key and I like it just that way!

And I could go on some other gadgets.

 

I am also probably one of the few persons left who thinks after a test ride instead of simply writing checks. Impulse buying left me burnt already and I have no intention of commiting the same mistake again. I buy long term, and it takes far more than a test ride to convince me.

So far what I've seen and felt of the LC boxer hasn't convinced me. I am sure the model family will eventually mature into something I may want to buy, but not right now.

[TEWKS]

I have one coming. Without a test ride on you all's recommendations.

 

Very confident we're not going to let you down.

 

Pat

[Gene#3]

I have a 2014 loaded. Your buying a top of the line bike. How much are you really saving by deleting options. WHAT ARE YOU GIVING UP!!. Honestly I use every option. The shift assist is the greatest thing since slice bread!! Yeah maybe give up the radio or not. I probably have spent more money on farkles that all the options cost. The ESA you go from aggressive riding to hwy with the roll of the wonder wheel.

 

I would not delete any option on the bike. Yes if you take a test ride take your check book

 

Sounds to me what you're looking for is an almost new / rebuilt airhead to make you happy! Back to the basics!

 

That's the question my dealer posed to me last year when I asked for a quote on a GSA-LC.

 

The problem, as I explained to him, is the stuff I don't want and I don't need. I could not care less about saving a few pennies when you are spending that much on a bike.

I absolutely hate the shift assist function: as I commented to him if I had it installed on my bike I'll take a big hammer to it until there's nothing left but small scraps of plastic and metal.

I already had a bike with keyless ignition and disliked it almost as much, so that's another useless feature for me. Before you ask, my car has an old fashioned key and I like it just that way!

And I could go on some other gadgets.

 

I am also probably one of the few persons left who thinks after a test ride instead of simply writing checks. Impulse buying left me burnt already and I have no intention of commiting the same mistake again. I buy long term, and it takes far more than a test ride to convince me.

So far what I've seen and felt of the LC boxer hasn't convinced me. I am sure the model family will eventually mature into something I may want to buy, but not right now.

[StuGotz]

Go buy an airhead.

 

Get an early 80's RS.

 

Ride the hell out of it.

 

MB>

[fastlarry]

No more pondering. It is in the garage after a cold 160 mile ride home from Athens, Ohio.

[StuGotz]

Ooooo, you're a bad man Larry.

 

MB>

[PODMAN]

No more pondering. It is in the garage after a cold 160 mile ride home from Athens, Ohio.

 

Put clothes on next time

[gordiet]

Your gonna love it!

GT