Flat Ticked

[Thumper]

I, and my 04 RT, live 100 miles from the nearest BMW shop. Nail in my rear tire - - - local Honda, Suz, Yama, Kawa shop told me they will not touch the bike but will help me if I drop the rear wheel. Have dropped the rear wheel, ordered a tire - - - - do I need to remove the brake disc before somone replaces the tire?

 

Certainly glad I was not in the wilderness when this happened. Frustrated, but not determined to not buy those brands. I'll sit on my BMW till it rusts from beneath my body.

[Paul Mihalka]

No need to remove the brake disk from the wheel.

[Bob Palin]

I, and my 04 RT, live 100 miles from the nearest BMW shop. Nail in my rear tire - - - local Honda, Suz, Yama, Kawa shop told me they will not touch the bike but will help me if I drop the rear wheel. Have dropped the rear wheel, ordered a tire - - - - do I need to remove the brake disc before somone replaces the tire?

 

Certainly glad I was not in the wilderness when this happened. Frustrated, but not determined to not buy those brands. I'll sit on my BMW till it rusts from beneath my body.

Frickin Friday Mojo plus Parnes balancer - no dealer needed.

[GordonB]

Mark the wheel with an arrow showing direction of rotation so whoever mounts your tire (not being familiar with BMW) mounts it in the correct direction for tire rotation.

[smiller]

Frickin Friday Mojo plus Parnes balancer - no dealer needed.

 

And you'll more than pay for the above with the savings of just a couple of dealer changes... plus you get to change the tire when you're ready.

[Tub]

The local Tires Unlimited will change any tire on any wheel, and spin balance it and put in a new valve stem, while you wait. No prior reservation required. They have tires in stock for most brands, or you can bring your own tire in. Or they can order any tire/size and have it in a few days.

 

Marking the wheel for rotation is a good idea, however if you have the old tire still on the rim, the rotation is marked on the old tire.

 

If you have a Tires Unlimited near you, give them a call. The local rival MC dealers in my area would not touch a BMW wheel, nor would any other auto tire dealer in this area.

[Pictou]

There is an indpendent shop near me that will change tires on any bike including BMWS. If you bring your bike in and he has to remove the wheels he charges about $30 per tire to change - I think its only $10 if you bring in just the wheel. You should check for next time to see if there is one of those near you.

[BMWRich58]

Certainly glad I was not in the wilderness when this happened. Frustrated, but not determined to not buy those brands. I'll sit on my BMW till it rusts from beneath my body.

 

Hooo'ld on their buddy!!!!!

Life ain't over yet just because you catch a flat....

No sir....!

You need to get and understand a little information on tires and road side repairs to help put your mind at ease.

[Bob Palin]

You need to get and understand a little information on tires and road side repairs to help put your mind at ease.

So, where is it?

[Matts_12GS]

Frustrated, but not determined to not buy those brands. I'll sit on my BMW till it rusts from beneath my body.

 

Then you may want to consider learning how to do this yourself, or, get used to hauling the trailer... Me, I dig the other brands as well AND do my own tires, anyone can if they are willing to.

[No_Twilight]

Frustrated, but not determined to not buy those brands. I'll sit on my BMW till it rusts from beneath my body.

 

Then you may want to consider learning how to do this yourself, or, get used to hauling the trailer... Me, I dig the other brands as well AND do my own tires, anyone can if they are willing to.

 

I agree with everything but the last statement. Some riders have NO mechanical ability/experience and could tear up a crowbar in a sandpile. We wrenchers have to be careful not to give advice to non-wrenchers that could get them in trouble. Let them decide if they're up to it or now. All we can offer is our willingness to give endless advice.

 

I'm not sure if the original poster is able or interested in doing his own wrenching. He hasn't been back since his orininal post. --Jerry

[Green RT]

I agree with everything but the last statement. Some riders have NO mechanical ability/experience and could tear up a crowbar in a sandpile. We wrenchers have to be careful not to give advice to non-wrenchers that could get them in trouble. Let them decide if they're up to it or now. All we can offer is our willingness to give endless advice.

 

I'm not sure if the original poster is able or interested in doing his own wrenching. He hasn't been back since his orininal post. --Jerry

 

I agree completely. I think those of us who have spent years tinkering with nuts and bolts underestimate the level of competence required to solve problems or, more importantly, to not create problems. Just simple things like knowing not to use an 18" breaker bar on a 10 mm nut can be unobvious to a novice. We need to be careful not to encourage people to get in over their head in our zeal to expand people's horizons about doing it yourself.

[Ken/OC]

So, where is it?

 

Short treatise (with pictures) on changing tires or just getting the wheels off the bike here.

[DBG]

A lot of dealers cannot do the rear tire on the BMW's due to the bolt pattern, and those that don't know it may not be able to balance the tire properly. Front tires are not usually a problem. Harley shops are your best bet. Just a word of caution. Good Luck DBG

[Matts_12GS]

anyone can if they are willing to.

Perhaps I should amend to say "anyone can if they are willing to learn?"

 

That is what the premise of this brotherhood is isn't it? Helping those similar to us, spending time in the fellowship enabled by these confounding beasts?

I'm no master mechanic, but I have learned immeasurably from attending garage days, tech days, events, reading magazine articles and scouring the internet for things related to what I know I know I need to do (e.g. tires) I guess that is included in what I meant by the willing part.

[russell_bynum]

anyone can if they are willing to.

Perhaps I should amend to say "anyone can if they are willing to learn?"

 

That is what the premise of this brotherhood is isn't it? Helping those similar to us, spending time in the fellowship enabled by these confounding beasts?

I'm no master mechanic, but I have learned immeasurably from attending garage days, tech days, events, reading magazine articles and scouring the internet for things related to what I know I know I need to do (e.g. tires) I guess that is included in what I meant by the willing part.

 

+1

[BMWRich58]

You need to get and understand a little information on tires and road side repairs to help put your mind at ease.

So, where is it?

 

 

Like said earlier,some have the mechanical knowledge,....other's haven't a clue.

Better to seek out a knowledgeable person,who takes the time to show and explain than just take a few pictures and write up their thoughts.

 

In Ken/OC 's link,I noticed in the picture that the front wheel laying on the floor has "no support" under the wheel protecting the brake rotors while attempting to break the tire off the rim... . That rug is only helping to prevent scratches that's it.

You gotta also remember these rims are somewhat soft and are not designed for the sideways load put on them as in the picture during the bead breakage.

 

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

You gotta also remember these rims are somewhat soft and are not designed for the sideways load put on them as in the picture during the bead breakage.

 

OK, so how do we break the beads without putting a side load on the rims?

[Wooster]

Harley shops are your best bet., ...

 

I agree. Harley shops, both official and not (e.g., "Custom Cycles"), seem more willing to deal with beemers and just about any other motorized two or three wheeler.

 

Wooster

 

Local Area Network in Australia = LAN down under

[DouglasR]

Ditto what that arrogant bastard Killer Bob said - do it yourself! I live 300+ miles from the nearest BMW dealer, so it's a major headache and commitment of time to get any service work done on my three BMWs. I live five blocks from a Suzuki dealer and six blocks from a Kawasaki dealer. They are great folks and offer what help they can if I ask, but they truly are intimidated by the lack of a rear axle on the beemers.

 

Then there was the dealer in Helena, Montana who saved my bacon on a trip last Summer. I'd gotten a screw through my rear tire and they dismounted the tire, put a patch with plug on from the inside, and mounted the tire back up for $25. They dropped what they were doing, got right to my tire and fed us donuts and coffee while we waited. Outstanding service!

 

 

I had one set of tires installed by the dealer, labor was $240 and the tires cost $240, total with tax right at $500 for a frickin' set of tires. Once was enough! I bought a Parnes Blancer, some long tire irons and rim protectors and do it myself now. All the tools necessary to do a proper job were less than half the cost of having the dealer do it once. I also bought a Parnes "universal" cone, so I can balance the wheels on any of my six bikes (three BMWs and some Japanese units!) and any of my buddy's bikes. I mail order tires from Southwest MotoTires, do it myself, and spend way less than half the $$$$ that the dealers get per change.

 

FWIW, I have an RT, GS and K75 plus two KLRs and a Suzuki DR. Changing tires on any of these bikes is just not very hard. I can swap both tires on the RT (most time-consuming because of the front fender/brakes) and balance them all by myself in about an hour. It is not difficult.

[skinny_tom (aka boney)]

In the parking lot of a Yamaha dealer in Seattle:

[smiller]

Yeah, if you're lucky enough to live near an independent who will mount and balance your tires for ten bucks then by all means... but unfortunately that's not the case for many of us. After a while of paying $100+ for dealer tire mounting it becomes pretty mandatory to find a better way. With the right tools and technique tire changes are fairly easy (although you may be using some words that you didn't even know you knew on the first attempt... )

 

(What happened to the 'wink' graemlin..?)

[EricJRW]

A lot of dealers cannot do the rear tire on the BMW's due to the bolt pattern...

What's the problem with the bolt pattern?

 

I need to replace my rear and am still debating on how to do it... I don't have the tire tools, but will inquire with the club tomorrow...

 

Other than that, I thought:

a) let the dealer do all the work,

b) pull the wheel myself and take it to either the dealer or Cycle Gear (low cost install if you buy the tire there).

 

Still need to call to get prices...

 

Thanks,

 

Eric

[BMWRich58]

On many tire changing machines, manual or automatic, the "Bead Breaker Assembly" is such that when implemented,"the majority of pressure" is against the "two" sides/walls of the tire in a somewhat of a "pinching act" which then allows the release from the wheelbead area.

In the cheap picture below,you'll find a Coats model 220 manual tire changer. Circled in Red is the area that the tire/wheel assembly lays, and allows the bead to be "broken from" the rim. The actual tire/rim assembly fits over and rests above this lip. The lips only job is to keep the wheel from walking out(away) as down pressure is exerted by the "shoe" on the beadbreaker lever.

 

 

Here's another photo of an automatic tire changer with a side mounted beadbreaker

[BMWRich58]

A lot of dealers cannot do the rear tire on the BMW's due to the bolt pattern...

What's the problem with the bolt pattern?

 

I need to replace my rear and am still debating on how to do it... I don't have the tire tools, but will inquire with the club tomorrow...

 

Other than that, I thought:

a) let the dealer do all the work,

b) pull the wheel myself and take it to either the dealer or Cycle Gear (low cost install if you buy the tire there).

 

Still need to call to get prices...

 

Thanks,

 

Eric

 

What is ment is Non-BMW Dealers usually don't have the correct "adapters" for balancing BM wheels.

 

But ....many Dealers have "Automatic Balancers" that grab and hold around the circumference of the mounted tire/wheel assembly so "rim adapters" are not needed.

 

Again a poor picture of said machine

 

[russell_bynum]

What is ment is Non-BMW Dealers usually don't have the correct "adapters" for balancing BM wheels.

 

Just a tidbit from my experience...I've been changing my own motorcycle tires for several years now and have burned through many sets of MEZ4's and Pilot Roads on the BMW's, and 3 sets of Pilot Powers on the CBR600RR. I've never balanced any of them and I have never had any problems from 0mph up through 130mph on the BMW's, and up into the 160mph range on the CBR.

 

YMMV, but I don't think balanacing is necessary on these things.

 

You definitely notice it in a car, but I haven't had any problems with it on the bikes.

[Bob Palin]

YMMV, but I don't think balanacing is necessary on these things.

I never have to balance my Metzelers although I check them every time.

[No_Twilight]

I've never balanced any of them and I have never had any problems from 0mph up through 130mph on the BMW's, and up into the 160mph range on the CBR.

 

YMMV, but I don't think balanacing is necessary on these things.

 

You definitely notice it in a car, but I haven't had any problems with it on the bikes.

 

Russel,

I'm shocked!!! But I have to agree that you're probably right. I bent a wheel on a gravel road pothole in Death Valley. Coming off the gravel, the pavement felt very smooth. I was also distracted by a blown fork seal from the impact. I rode home 400+ miles that day including several excursions into 3-digit land and never noticed it. Later that week I thought the handlebar might be vibrating a little more than usual and decided I needed to check my throttle balance. Then when I changed the fork seal I found a huge flat spot on the front wheel. So my point is that even with a huge out of balance condition I didn't figure it out for 600 miles or so. I just built a super fancy balancer and my tires are now balanced much better than any shop will do it. I'm afraid that this allows me to feel motor vibration better is all.

 

But I think I would take the time to balance my track bike tires. You're always welcome to borrow my balancer.

 

--Jerry

[russell_bynum]

But I think I would take the time to balance my track bike tires.

 

Why?

 

As I said, so far I've been through 3 sets of tires with speeds up to the top speed of the bike (~160mph up on the banking at Fontana) and I haven't felt anything wrong.

 

I don't have an issue with doing it if I thought I needed to, but I'm not going to spend the time and energy if there's no benefit.

[bmweerman]

Yeah, if you're lucky enough to live near an independent who will mount and balance your tires for ten bucks then by all means... but unfortunately that's not the case for many of us.

 

FWIW Cycle Gear has always been willing to mount and balance my tires for $10.00...and there are a lot of those around.

[bmweerman]

Quote:

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I agree with everything but the last statement. Some riders have NO mechanical ability/experience and could tear up a crowbar in a sandpile. We wrenchers have to be careful not to give advice to non-wrenchers that could get them in trouble. Let them decide if they're up to it or now. All we can offer is our willingness to give endless advice.

 

I'm not sure if the original poster is able or interested in doing his own wrenching. He hasn't been back since his orininal post. --Jerry

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 

I agree completely. I think those of us who have spent years tinkering with nuts and bolts underestimate the level of competence required to solve problems or, more importantly, to not create problems. Just simple things like knowing not to use an 18" breaker bar on a 10 mm nut can be unobvious to a novice. We need to be careful not to encourage people to get in over their head in our zeal to expand people's horizons about doing it yourself.

 

I have to disagree...As a novice wrench getting in over my head and breaking/bending/screwing a few things up along the way was/is all part of the experience and fun! Can't progress up the learning curve without a few bumps and bruises. And, like someone else already said, this brotherhood is fantastic, always ready to throw down a rope or send in a helicopter when one gets stuck on the ledge.

 

OR

 

I could just be weird

[Thumper]

 

I agree completely. I think those of us who have spent years tinkering with nuts and bolts underestimate the level of competence required to solve problems or, more importantly, to not create problems. Just simple things like knowing not to use an 18" breaker bar on a 10 mm nut can be unobvious to a novice. We need to be careful not to encourage people to get in over their head in our zeal to expand people's horizons about doing it yourself.

 

Hey, thanks to all who responded. To Paul for pointing out that I do not need to remove the brake disc, and to the rest for your thoughts on "doing it yourself." Mechanically, my experience has been that there is a nearly equal liklihood of disaster as success. May some of you offer some tech seminars in VT this summer for those of us who hadn't the benefit of a talented wrencher next door.

[Thumper]

Will,

 

Ok, dumber than a post - - - why not use an 18" bar to loosen my lugs? Your point is well taken as some of us are ignorant of what you know without quetion. Humbly, what is the hazard in the use of the long cheater bar?

[Thumper]

Jerry,

 

Willing, but the able portion is in doubt without the educated guidance from someone who has done it. Dropped my wheel, and will replace it. Any hints for a newbie?

[Ken/OC]

FWIW Cycle Gear has always been willing to mount and balance my tires for $10.00...and there are a lot of those around.

 

My local parts and apparel shop does it for $12 with balancing. I'm happy to pull the wheels but darned if I'll wrestle with the tires to save $12!

[No_Twilight]

Jerry,

 

Willing, but the able portion is in doubt without the educated guidance from someone who has done it. Dropped my wheel, and will replace it. Any hints for a newbie?

 

Thumper, I'm not saying you're not able to learn to wrench. We just need to let you make that decision yourself. As for guidance, it's all here or in your manual. Get a Haynes or similar manual and read it before each job. Ask us here for clarification. Use torque wrenches as the book says, at least until you become experienced. Invest in the tools you need but you don't need to buy snapon in my opinion--most cheap tools are good today, unlike when I was a kid. Stop by my garage in SoCal anytime for a beer, some tips, and a ride (oops, not in that order). Cheers, Jerry

[Thumper]

Jerry,

 

Thanks. Ride Safe. When out your way I'll take you up on the invite.

[Wooster]

- - - why not use an 18" bar to loosen my lugs? ... Humbly, what is the hazard in the use of the long cheater bar?

 

For removal (that's counterclockwise), not much of a hazard and when lots of force (torque) is needed to loosen, 18 inch breaker bar is a boon (such as rear wheel lug removal). Recall, post warned about 18 inch bar vs 10 mm nut/bolt; here, potential force of 18 inch bar far exceeds any logical amount needed for small (10 mm) fastener. Interestingly, the physical size of wrenches is a close match to the maximum force permissible for that specific sized fastener. Typical length of 10 mm open/box wrench is six inches or so; with so short a lever, it's difficult to over due tightening 10 mm bolt. Contrarily, some long lever (hello 18 inch breaker bar) can easily over power (strip threads) of small bolt w/o mechanic applying any real strength (power of lever is great).

As MarathonMan confessed, most of us semi-competent mechanics (that's me, "semi") have some history of typical rookie mistakes, such as over powering and thread stripping of small fasteners.

 

Wooster

 

NM State motto "We grow as we go", describes shade tree mechanics too, by doing, we gain skill.

[gnuse]

I don't know who did the "Changing an R1150RT" article, but there is a somewhat serious flaw in the photos. It would be nice not to expose a novice to the ravages of placing the tire iron on the alloy rim and using the plastic to protect the rubber tire as shown in the next to last set of photos in section 2. I think the purpose of the plastic was to protect the rim.

[EricJRW]

Do you have a link to that article? I'd like to take a look...

 

Thanks

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Do you have a link to that article? I'd like to take a look...

 

Thanks

 

http://members.cox.net/ysharlow/Tire/

 

Yeah, that was an interesting coupla photos alright...

 

 

[EricJRW]

Thanks for the post.

 

Well at least it is a rubber mallet...

 

I don't feel like taking on the rubber, but I do plan to at least take the wheel off myself... I like to get as much info as possible... and this helps.