TREE Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 1994 R11RS.... I am reassembling the bike after my clutch job. Swingarm and rear drive left to install. The front bearings on the swingarm are not coming out of the arm easily (the inner race, not the outer press fit with roller bearings ). The rear bearings at the final drive end of the swing arm came apart easily so I can pack the rollers that stay in the arm with moly. The book says to do the same on the front bearings but they seem to be 'trapped' in the races. Am I missing something here ? I would swear these are 2 different bearing designs , at least on my machine. ( I just looked at them again, they are different designs , inner race on the rear bearings is smaller 25mm vrs 30mm and comes out ). Also, 5 ft lbs for the final bearing adjust, anyone got a rule of thumb for this without a small torque wrench ? Just looking for alternatives. ( I can always swing 2.5 lbs on a 2ft bar ). Link to comment
RFW Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 It is common for many types of taper roller bearings to be constructed so they are not disassemblable. The Swingarm bearings in my K100 cannot be disassembled either. Do not force them apart, or you risk damaging the roller retainers. Bob. Link to comment
TREE Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 For sure, been wrenching 40 yrs and I would never force a bearing apart that doesn't come out with finger pressure or a varsol soak. Just curious if anyone has front bearings on an oilhead (1100) that actually come apart...... starting to doubt it. The Haynes book thinks they do..... weird. Link to comment
DaveyMac Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Tree, I just assembled my bike (spline lube) and I packed grease in the back piviots but my fronts didn't come apart either so I let it be. According to Max BMW's parts fiche there 2 differant Bearings for front & rear. Dave Link to comment
TREE Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Thanks Dave, that was going to be my fix too. Funny how the book thinks both ends have the same style bearings. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Also, 5 ft lbs for the final bearing adjust, anyone got a rule of thumb for this without a small torque wrench ? It's a fairly critical spec. for the life of the pivot bearings. Not sure I would guess at it. If nothing else, rent a torque wrench for this one time job. Link to comment
smiller Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Consider yourself lucky... for most of us they seem to come apart all by themselves, even when not particularly desired. Link to comment
DaveyMac Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 For less than the price of 1 Pivot bearing you can own a 3/8 beam type see here I always belive an investment in tools is just that an Investment DaveyMac Link to comment
smiller Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Trouble with a beam-type wrench for this application though is that they are not so good for resolving very low torque values, such as that used to set the bearing preload. If one has set the preload many times I think you could do a reasonable job by feel (perhaps even better than going by the torque value alone), but again that would only be after having done it many times. Link to comment
wolcott Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 what will give you an accurate 5 ft/lbs torque for this adjustment? Perhaps a 1/4 drive Snap-on torque wrench calibrated in inch/lbs. and then you convert to ft/lbs.? Link to comment
smiller Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Actually I checked my Craftsman 3/8" drive clicker-type against a standard and it was (surprisingly) pretty accurate even at that low setting. But yeah, the more toward the middle of the range of the torque wrench the more accurate the reading will be. I personally think a lower-range 3/8" drive unit would be plenty OK though. Link to comment
TREE Posted March 2, 2006 Author Share Posted March 2, 2006 It's a fairly critical spec. for the life of the pivot bearings. Not sure I would guess at it. If nothing else, rent a torque wrench for this one time job. I've always had a good 3/8 torque wrench but 10ft lbs is the lowest. Will look for an inch pound model. Link to comment
RFW Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 what will give you an accurate 5 ft/lbs torque for this adjustment? Perhaps a 1/4 drive Snap-on torque wrench calibrated in inch/lbs. and then you convert to ft/lbs.? It ain't rocket science! Put a foot long extension on your ratchet (like slipping a pipe over it) and pull on the end with a cheap spring scale that is calibrated to max 5 or 10 pounds. Remember that the 5ft-lb preload torque is relatively approximate. It makes little difference it is only 4 ft-lb, or goes as high as 6 ft-lb. Bob. Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 what will give you an accurate 5 ft/lbs torque for this adjustment? Perhaps a 1/4 drive Snap-on torque wrench calibrated in inch/lbs. and then you convert to ft-lbs.? That's exactly what you need except Snapon tools are too expensive for me. Attached is a photo of the catalog page for www.use-enco.com. I've been looking for an excuse to buy one of these. Looks like you have your excuse. The beam types are just fine if taken good care of but one with a 75 ft-lb range will not be accurate at 5 ft lbs. Well, the catalog is in PDF and I couldn't attache the page. The small wrenches are on page 517. And I corrected your ft/lbs to ft-lbs. since they are directly multiplied, the correction factor is a simple 12. 5 ft-lbs is 60 in-lbs. Cheers, Jerry Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Also see that there are several imported 50-200 in-lb torque wrenches for sale on ebay for $30 or so. --Jerry Link to comment
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