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96 R1100RT Throttle Crossover Cable alternatives? Electronic?


phillipdhall

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I have a pre July 1996 R1100RT - that's the one with the single throttle cable that goes from he handlebar, around the left throttle body, then continues across to the right throttle body. The design is so impossible to keep the throttle bodies in sync that they did away with it in the middle of a model year!

 

My crossover cable is kinked, old, and impossible to get a good sync. It's $60 to buy a replacement, getting back to the normal level of compromise.

 

Or, I've heard of some folks converting to the newer Bowden Box setup, but that requires replacing throttle bodies, the battery tray, and buying the box and all new cables. I haven't totaled it up, but I think I'm looking at a few hundred dollars even if I find a good deal on used parts.

 

So I started thinking, there's got to be a better way to get throttles synced... mechanical bar across the bike? not likely. What about electronically actuated throttle control? Now THAT could be cool! But practical?

 

Has anyone already considered converting to electronically actuated throttle? Is this even possible? Autozone has some throttle actuators for about $60 each... but it would probably require significant modification to make it work on my existing throttle body. Or could my existing fuel injector/TPS be retrofitted into another throttle body? And I'd have to find a place to put a potentiometer at the handlebar... And in the end, would the two actuators be precise enough to be in sync without a sort of voltage offset mechanism?

 

It may be just a crazy idea - maybe some of the really great brains on here can set me straight before I waste too much energy on it :-)

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Evening phillipdhall

 

Converting to electronic throttle control would be a giant pain in the a$$.

 

Your bike doesn't have a fueling computer to run it so all the electronics would have to be homemade or cobbled in from another donor vehicle. (lots of work for no real gain & even then keeping both sides in sync would take WAY more electronic control or some sort of cable/or mechanical linkage crossover)

 

Easy way out that works is: just go on E-Bay & buy the Bowden box, then buy new cables & make the conversion. With a little work you can use your present throttle bodies & cams & no new battery box needed as you can secure with zip ties.

 

I have owned a few single cable 1100 bikes & never really had a sync problem as long all is ADJUSTED PROPERLY & the cable is smooth operating. I kind of allowed the idle sync to float where it wanted (you don't ride it at idle anyhow so who cares if the idle sync is perfect) they still idle decently if all the other basics are correct.

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Easy way out that works is: just go on E-Bay & buy the Bowden box, then buy new cables & make the conversion. With a little work you can use your present throttle bodies & cams & no new battery box needed as you can secure with zip ties.

 

I have owned a few single cable 1100 bikes & never really had a sync problem as long all is ADJUSTED PROPERLY & the cable is smooth operating.

 

This is encouraging! Thank you dirtrider. Converting to the box would be a lot easier to swallow without replacing everything. Do you know if anyone has posted what mods were required, or will it look pretty obvious when I get in there?

 

I bought the bike at 65k miles, and have it up to 77k. My main concern is the vibration that makes my right hand numb after 20 minutes at 75 mph. Do you think that just replacing the crossover cable may make sync reliable enough without the conversion? Or do I need to ditch a boxer if I'm going to be that wimpy about the vibration?

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I bought the bike at 65k miles, and have it up to 77k. My main concern is the vibration that makes my right hand numb after 20 minutes at 75 mph. Do you think that just replacing the crossover cable may make sync reliable enough without the conversion? Or do I need to ditch a boxer if I'm going to be that wimpy about the vibration?

 

Evening phillipdhall

 

You can't replace JUST the crossover cable as the cable is one piece all the way through.

 

I seriously doubt a new cable, or converting to the later Bowden box & twin cables, will do a darn thing for that 75mph buzz (that is a normal boxer buzz). At 75 mph you are running well above fuel management induced engine disturbance. At 75 mph engine buzzes & vibrations are almost always a mechanical disturbance.

 

To get some of that buzz out of the handlebars you will probably need to--

 

Lighten up your grip on the bars.

 

Add more bar end weight (you can buy or make larger mass weights)

 

Check ALL engine & handlebar bolts for being tight.

 

Make sure the exhaust system isn't contacting frame or center stand.

 

More complex & takes some work- In the old days I would remove one bolt from handlebar attachment on each side then space the 3 remaining bolt locations up slightly using very thin washers (turns the existing bars into a tuned dampeners).

 

Added: you also have to keep in mind that your 1100 boxer has 2 fairly large pistons that come to a COMPLETE stop then restart in a different direction twice per revolution. (that's a LOT of mass that is not directly across for each other so causes an inherent buzz)

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I have owned a few single cable 1100 bikes & never really had a sync problem as long all is ADJUSTED PROPERLY & the cable is smooth operating.

Yes. The Bowden box was more of an unnecessary complication than anything else IMO as a properly set-up single cable system works fine. If the cable is properly adjusted and in good condition then I would not make it a scapegoat for sync issues, rather I'd look for the real problem.

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Out of curiosity, what is your engine RPM when going at 75mph in fifth gear? Assuming your '96 is 5-speed just like my '99 R. If I remember correctly, I think mine sits right around 4K on a flat expressway, fairly buzzfree. Mine is worse at around 3.5k.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have converted from the single cable setup to the distributor one. I got the parts from a totaled 99' GS.

 

Also took the intakes from the GS. The spliter just stays under the battery tray as I have not changed that. Not an issue so far and I have done this mod quite a few years back, about 50k kms in the past.

 

Dan.

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