Joe G Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 Anyone know what the part number is for a European headlight switch for a U.S. 2003 RT? I'd like to be able to start the bike and warm it up w/o the headlight on. Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks. Link to comment
Boffin Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 Anyone know what the part number is for a European headlight switch for a U.S. 2003 RT? I'd like to be able to start the bike and warm it up w/o the headlight on. Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks. I think you need item no 1 A word of warning however, do not warm up oilhead BMWs, just start and ride off. The owners manual cautions against it, it is not necessary and it can lead to damage - especially on RT tupperware. Cya, Andy Link to comment
Joe G Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Thanks, Andy. I searched through A & S's online catalog but didn't come up with anything. I appreciate your efforts. Do you have this type switch on your bike? The headlights on the U.S. bikes come on as soon as you turn the key to the "On" position, beginning a drain on the battery immediately. I'd like to bypass that initial, critical drain with this switch. Link to comment
Boffin Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Thanks, Andy. I searched through A & S's online catalog but didn't come up with anything. I appreciate your efforts. Do you have this type switch on your bike? The headlights on the U.S. bikes come on as soon as you turn the key to the "On" position, beginning a drain on the battery immediately. I'd like to bypass that initial, critical drain with this switch. As of 2004 the Euro Switch is no more as al the bike manufacturers agreed to adopt 'always on' as a worldwide standard. My '02 had this switch, but not my current RT. FWIW I don't see it as an issue, as soon as you thumb the starter the Load Relief relay turns the lights off. Assuming that you have the OEM lights the total load at switch-on is 65watts, which is caclulated at 12V, so the current draw is 5.4 amps. Assume a lower draw as the voltage is down, so work with 5A for about 10 seconds, which is 0.0138AH . The OEM battery is 19AH, you are using 0.0726% of that capacity during that initial switch on, which I don't think is significant, especially considered against the motoronic, fuel pump and servo systems all of which would still be turned on. Cya, Andy Link to comment
Francis Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 The part number I have for my switch is 61 31 7 650 772 Hope this helps. Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 I don't recall the part number for the one I bought but I remember the price was closer to $200 and than to $100. It's not like the R1100's where it was an $80 item. Link to comment
skinny_tom (aka boney) Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Somehow I missed this when you put it up. Call Greg over at Marin BMW, he ordered mine and it was the right part. Paid about 70, and it is plug and play. Link to comment
MattS Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Paid about 70... New for an 1150 you didn't pay that little. I had Euroswitches on my K1100LT ('97) and R1150RT ('03). From Max, the part numbers/prices for the right-side switch for an 1150: 61317 659330 Combi Switch right, htd Hndgrp,cont light @ $247 61317 659320 Combi Switch Right, Continuous Light @ $151 These are the new-style switchgear that first appeared around 2001/02, the color scheme being gray and orange. The older style switches fit the 1100, the color scheme yellow and green: 61312 306179 Combination Switch with Continuous Light @ $75 61312 306178 Combination Switch Right @ $82 The big price difference is probably somewhat attributable to the older switches having been in production for some time (8 years?). The newer stuff remains in production, but the new Euroswitch specifically was limited to less than four years of production. Link to comment
skinny_tom (aka boney) Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 I'll see if I can dig out the receipt for the part number. IIRC, there were 4 different switches listed, and the one I have was for the RT-P. I checked the MAX site and found several listed but can't tell you which, if any, is the one I have. Edit: DOH! try $185. (I was only a little off.) P/N 61 31 7 650 772 (as printed on the receipt) Switch= 1) all off 2)pilot lamp and rear light 3)headlight, pilot lamp, rear light. Fog lights operate independently. Link to comment
Joe G Posted March 2, 2006 Author Share Posted March 2, 2006 The part number that Andy posted is 61 31 7 659 330, which is different from your part #, Tom. What's the difference ( other than the cost )? Link to comment
Francis Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 A&S had a listing for the Euro Switch that indicated the 330 was for bikes from 12/02 and newer. Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 There is a cutoff point where you can't fit the Euroswitch, I think it started with the 2 sparkers Link to comment
Francis Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 How do you set up the Euro Switch so that the first position is "off", the second position runs all of the bikes lights, and the third position runs all of the bikes lights plus auxiliary lighting? Francis Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 How do you set up the Euro Switch so that the first position is "off", the second position runs all of the bikes lights, and the third position runs all of the bikes lights plus auxiliary lighting? Francis I have heard of it being done but I only installed the switch in the OE configuration, no accessories lights hooked up to it. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 This isn't exactly the scenario you are looking for, but it shows how the "Euro" switch works. You should be able to work out your configuration from there: Link to comment
Marty Hill Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 My euro switch was set as follows: 1. no lights 2. dip beam and aux lights 3. high beam and aux lights You can have it this way or the way Ken posted. Link to comment
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