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Footpeg lowering advice

Bob Boro

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I'm considering lowering the rider footpegs on my 2003 R1150RT. I think the gear shifter can be adjusted but I'm wondering if I can adjust the rear brake lever enough to compensate for the lowered pegs. I'm considering Suburban Machinery's footpeg lowering kit. Any others I should consider? Problems to be concerned about? I'm trying to make my legs more comfortable on long rides. Thanks!

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Which motorcycle & lowering kit do you have? Did you have to modify the shifter or brake pedal? If so, how? I'm trying to find out what problems I might have before buying a lowering kit.

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Sorry, not sure on the brand as it was on the bike when I bought it, but it looks like Suburban Machinery. I have no problem with the brake lever, but you can only lower the shifter so much and I would prefer it to be a little lower. I have to raise my toe higher than I prefer to upshift and need to take my foot off the peg to downshift. I got used to it and would not take the lowers off, it relaxes my knees on long rides.

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  • 2 weeks later...


Both levers can be adjusted... to a certain degree.


Many of us put "peg lowering" as one of the very first modifications when we get a new bike.... I do. Relax, its easy. Suburban Machinery is my choice.


Raising the shifter is pretty easy. Get under there with a flashlight and look it over. There are two possible adjustments. There is a small shift lever shaft with a lock nut. Loosen the nut, turn the shaft, lock it all back. Easy but only a limited range of movement as this is just a minor adjustment link.


For much greater movement, like if you have boots with big fat toes, you change the position of the shift lever on its shaft. To do this you may have to remove some parts down low on the left side (and maybe remove the plate the left foot peg is mounted on, but it is a very simple job and very effective... let me give you some tips.


Put the bike on the center stand and put the bike in neutral. With a ruler measure the distance from the ground to the shifter. Write this down. Remove any parts needed so that you can get to the locking nut and screw on the shifter. It is small and may need a tiny Torx female socket.


Take a marking pen and draw a line on the end of the shaft and shifter so you can have a visual reference on how many splines you have moved to raise/lower the shifter and also to know where to put it back to if needed. Loosen the locking screw and simply pull the shifter off the shaft and rotate it upward. (note: older bikes may need a little penetrating oil or some other persuasion to get the lever off the shaft.) ... and moving one or two splines will probably give you all the change you need... but trial and error is easy.


Another note: Your shifter will have the locking nut/screw mechanics and if I recall correctly the shaft of the screw passes through a groove on the shaft. (this shaft/groove arrangement ensures the shifter cannot fall off if the tightening screw gets loose.


All this means is that you will have to remove the locking screw, not just loosen it. Of course put it all back after you get it where you want it.... including the locking screw and shaft.


When you get it where its comfortable put everything back together- go for a ride.


The brake lever is mechanically different and it is therefore easier but not always as effective as the shifter adjustment.


Again, get down there with a flash light and look it over. Yes, there is another small shaft with a lock nut. Take your reference measurement at some convenient place. Loosen the nut, do the adjustment, put things back. The range of adjustment is quite a bit less but the good news is that on the brake side you stepping on the lever, not putting your toe under it... In actual practice wherever it ends up... you will get used to it very quickly.


Seriously, that is all there is to it. The only "alerts" I should give you is to take good look at the various nuts/bolts before you start the job so that you have the tools needed before you start. this eliminates the need to go to Harbor Freight at 9:00 at night... or perhaps at opening next morning.

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  • 4 months later...

I didn't see the brake lever on the Wethead as being *meaningfully* adjustable, and in my case it was an issue after installing the DL3N. Luckily, Ilium makes an adjustable brake lever for the Wethead, with quite a bit of range too. I wrote it up for MCN, in fact. Should be out in a month or two.



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