Bob Atkinson Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 Anyone have information on the available spring rates available from Ohlin for a 04 RT? How are the springs Marked? (how can you tell which spring is which) What number spring is for what weight rider? ETC. Thanks Link to comment
AnRSguy Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 I had the same question and called Ohlins in Hendersonville, NC at 828-692-4525 and talked with a gentleman there. He was quite knowledgeable and friendly. The stock spring for an 04 R1150RT is for a rider weighing about 175 lbs. If you buy the springs new they can be setup for your weight or if you already have them, they can change the springs for about $125 per shock. Hope this helps. Link to comment
GordonB Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Talk to Dan at Kyle racing, I just ordered my Ohlins there today and was amazed at his knowledge of spring rates available. He had better knowledge than the guy I spoke with at Ohlins (confirmed). He stocks most springs, and will swap em as needed! Call em! Go Here for the info. Plus the price is great Link to comment
Firefight911 Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Another great resource for bike spring rates, etc. is www.racetech.com. Hugely (is that a word?) helpful! My local suspension guy is a certified Ohlins tech and he uses Race Tech for everything. He has set up my dirt bikes and does an enormous amount of street bike stuff from Lead Wings to sportbikes. Good Luck! Link to comment
Doppelganger Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 NOOB QUESTION: What's the best indicator my shocks may need replacing? i just hit 40k on my '99. Link to comment
Firefight911 Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Your best indicator of a sacked out spring would be to remove it and measure its length against the min/max length in the service manual for your bike. If that is bad, you are done. Got a new spring. If that is good, then test it for its rate on a spring test bench. If it falls in the acceptable tolerance for your bike you are good. Chances are that if you are at 40k on the shock you will probably need to seervice the shock, if that is possible on your bike. It will need new seals, valving, fluid, and a nitrogen recharge. The spring is probably fine. If you are going to go through this, check out replacing it with an aftermarket unit. Compare the cost of a rebuild to the cost of a new one. Make your decision based on this and the review of information regarding the adjustability of said shocks, etc. More than anything, go to someone that has a verifiable history. Your suspension is absolutely critical to the safe and fun operation of your bike. Do not trust it to the cheapest guy unless his references back it up. While you are at it, do the front forks/shock as well. It will probably make things worse if you don't do to the front what you have done to the rear. Finally, regardless of the avenue (new or rebuild) you decide, get the front and rear set up for your weight and riding style. Once everything is back in the bike get your baseline settings established and then take the time to get it to work right by adjusting it. It is amazing, the difference a correctly adjusted suspension makes!! And of course, it is all a moot point if your tire pressures/condition is not up to snuff. Good Luck! Link to comment
DaveyMac Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Sent you a PM. DaveyMac Link to comment
Bob Palin Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 What's the best indicator my shocks may need replacing? i just hit 40k on my '99. By far the easiest way is to ride a new bike, go to the dealer and take a test ride, you'll know if your shocks are gone! Watch out though, it could be expensive if you test something you like Link to comment
Bart Anderson Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I have a related question that I've been curious about for a while. How wide of a weight range can be managed with the Ohlins preload adjuster? For example, sometimes I like to bang backroads on my RT with no bags at all. Other times I'm fully loaded for a cross country camping trip. Will the Ohlins have a wide enough adjustment range to perform well at both extremes, or will there be a compromise at one end or the other? TIA... Link to comment
Firefight911 Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 As with all things suspension, when you are operating in multiple environs, there will be compromise. There is adequate adjustment range to go from one up to full load on the adjuster. In the end, there will be some compromise but it probably won't be noticed on the road. Get your suspension set for what you do the majority of the time with some tolerance for what else you do and go with it. Also, when going from one up to full load, you should make some damping adjustments to compensate for the increased spring force. Eg.; On my R1200ST i add 10 clicks of preload and 3/4 of a turn of rebound damping when going two up. When I go with the wife and full luggage, we go 14 clicks and 1 turn from my one up setting. Also, I adjust tire pressures from 35F/38R for one up to 38F/40R for two up. Hope this helps. Link to comment
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